Ok, a twelve hour print later and the parts came out BEAUTIFULLY on the Phenom. I love this printer, I can throw anything at it and it just works. I also learned a big lesson, print interlocking parts on the same printer to guarantee easy fit!

Nautilus Drydocks Typhoon
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Finally printed the Soviet Periscope set properly - finally!!!
The radian scope in the centre wouldn't print fully in the vertical orientation, so I cut it out of the model and tried several different orientations. Also, the induction mast is INCREDIBLY fragile; while it's a beautiful piece of work, it's not practical in its current state; I think that a short, clear rod in the centre to "extend" the mast and take the pressure off the "cage" will work fine to keep the aesthetic nicely, though.
This is a great addition to the sub, and I can't wait to install some of these on the boat.
The only improvement I could imagine is to space things out more as it's tightly packed and tricky to cut parts off without breaking other pieces.
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I hate 3d printing some days. I redid the print that produced the awesome radian towers and it more or less completely failed to produce identical results with the same environment, model etc. Maybe the resin wasn't mixed well enough or something weird. Regardless, I still got a bunch of the carbon fibre tube holders to print perfectly though.
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Finally printed the Soviet Periscope set properly - finally!!!
The radian scope in the centre wouldn't print fully in the vertical orientation, so I cut it out of the model and tried several different orientations. Also, the induction mast is INCREDIBLY fragile; while it's a beautiful piece of work, it's not practical in its current state; I think that a short, clear rod in the centre to "extend" the mast and take the pressure off the "cage" will work fine to keep the aesthetic nicely, though.
This is a great addition to the sub, and I can't wait to install some of these on the boat.
The only improvement I could imagine is to space things out more as it's tightly packed and tricky to cut parts off without breaking other pieces.
TimComment
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Here's a handy tip for folks - I've had to use Chitubox Pro (v1.2) for my resin printers, and it does a decent enough job most of the time. However, printing the Typhoon I've seen some funky anomalies in the prints it produces for the printer - artifacts missing, etc. I didn't realize that there were alternatives that worked with my printer, but there are a few it turns out. I tried Lychee Slicer and wow, it's a HUGE step up from Chitubox; the part I had most issues with, printed FLAWLESSLY when it was sliced in Lychee. The UI is nicer, feels better put together, too; it seems to be a better all-around product. There's a monthly subscription for the Pro version which is €5.99 and Premium is €9.99 - either way you slice it (sorry), this is still a ton cheaper than the $169 sub fee for Chitubox Pro. I'm doing some more tests today to see if (for instance) the periscopes print differently and the vent vanes in the third hull section print correctly. Updates early next week!
BTW Lychee supports a veritable boat-load (not sorry) of printers. I'm wondering how I could've been so blind to this stuff for so long.👍 1Comment
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One other example! I reprinted one of the bottom sections that had the vents in. On the right is the Chitubox sliced version, Lychee is on the left. Lychee rendered everything nicely but solid, whereas Chitubox did half the job of printing the vanes. I don't know how this section is modeled so I don't know which approach is the correct one, but I'm going to put another tick in the Lychee column.
I also reprinted the periscopes, and guess what, it seemed to print everything correctly in one orientation!
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The latest progress! I've got the major hull components together; the front bulkhead and sail are not yet glued, and neither is the back end, as I've got a bunch of work to do there first. I made real sure to print top and bottom hull sections together, then elastic banded them so there was a snug fit as they cured but I'm still having fitment issues. I think I can see why most are occurring, but it'll need to wait to see when the front and rear sections are on to see if things will hold together securely or if I need to do more work.
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Looking great so far!
I find that large resin prints are pretty soft when they first come off, and it takes a good post-cure in sunlight or under a large UV lamp to lock them in. Just watch, in sunlight I actually find the heat can distort the parts.
BobComment
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Thank you! Obviously, there are tons more to work on, but it's encouraging to see something forming.
Yes! That heat from the sun distorting things is the reason that most of the hull sections are reprints! I was a lot more careful the second time around, and they were cured with a UV lamp slowly!
Cheers,
- hywelComment
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I’ve spent a lot of time figuring out resins and reprinting parts. I’ve settled on Siraya Tech Fast as my new go-to resin -the bow of the boat fell off the table and shattered -a real humpty dumpty moment :/
I’ve printed some parts in Siraya Tech Build too, The printer profiles for Build resin are super tricky so there was a lot of failed prints figuring things out.
Here’s a pic of the boat glued and sanded partially - it’s reached the “it looks like an elephant’s d*ck” stage. I also reprinted a LOT of missile doors in the new resin too. I don’t recall how many came out (they printed beautifully) but if anyone wants a set let me know and I’ll send them out free of charge. I owe a set to FindingNemo first tho!
fiberglassing the interior is next as I’m scared to death of more cracks and breaks; can’t wait for the starter kit from Bob as I’m having a hard time visualizing how all of this is going to work together and want to get the stern built out!
Last edited by hywel; 09-25-2022, 04:02 PM.👍 1Comment
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Looks like the thin line between the missile silos printed well. I ended up removing mine and gluing a brass square rod in for strength instead.Comment
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