Nautilus Drydocks Typhoon

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  • hywel
    Lieutenant
    • Aug 2022
    • 65

    Nautilus Drydocks Typhoon

    I've got two resin printers running around the clock as much as possible. An Elegoo Mars 3 for the small stuff, and a Peopoly Phenom Prime for the big stuff.

    Well, we're off with a bang! My boat has a buttt! Ok, so it has a stern...

    I printed Hull 2 first, which took 19 hours and 4 minutes. Next up is Hull 1...
  • FindingNemo
    Lieutenant, Junior Grade
    • May 2022
    • 47

    #2
    Looks good. My PETG version of course had striations, plus some shrinkage that needed filling, and some cracks in early pieces (fixed with an extra 5°C). Looks like resin addresses all these issues.

    I've been designing a bow plane door mechanism for this kit which is nearly ready. (I'm also working on a double periscope system, plus a fancy mechanism to open the missle hatches in a sequential fashion instead of all at once.)

    Comment

    • hywel
      Lieutenant
      • Aug 2022
      • 65

      #3
      Resin is good but even the 5k screen gives me printing artifacts that need cleaning up. I think I need to adjust my first layer too.

      Im super interested in your periscope system and missile doors…and the bow plane doors to be honest!! I have a knack for ending up with loooong term projects so those would qualify :)

      Naturally knowing the work that goes into such things just name your price!

      I’ve got some additional update pics to post today; the hull sections are 23 hour prints so that obvs takes up a lot of progress momentum, but small items can print on my little printer (although I really like the Deft resin from my big printer - more flexible than brittle I’m not investing the time at this point to dial it in to the little printer so that further limits things as brittle bits aren’t that useful for mechanical stuff that could stress.

      Comment

      • SubICman
        Lieutenant
        • Jun 2022
        • 87

        #4
        Nice work. I am trying to print the Hydra Sub on My Flashforge Foto 8.1 and keep getting failed prints. I am using black ABS like resin from Rich-Opto and have the machine dialed in on the resin calibration files for it, but when I go to print the larger files, the resin is sticking to the FEP. Pulling out my hair here, but I'll figure it out. For my smaller stuff I have an Elegoo Mars 2 and use the grey water washable stuff....it turns out good parts consistently.

        Tim

        Comment

        • hywel
          Lieutenant
          • Aug 2022
          • 65

          #5
          Thanks! I'm running into issues with the rudder parts, whichever printer I try there is some kind of failure. The joys of 3D printing! I've bad parts stick to the FEP a couple times, but cleaning and re-homing the plate generally fixes that, but there are always gremlins that get in and screw things up! Do you have a build thread going?

          Comment

          • hywel
            Lieutenant
            • Aug 2022
            • 65

            #6
            Here goes, some updated pics. Generally, I'm finding the hull components to take +- 23 hrs, so, luckily, the top and bottom will fit on the plate simultaneously. Other various bits and bobs have been printed too. The Mars is a TON faster than the Peopoly. The Hull #3 parts printed well, but the "vent" area was too fine to print correctly - no big deal can put a mesh of some kind in there.

            Missiles, missile tubes, missile hatch covers, and Hull 2
            Hull 3A and Hull 3B Outside ViewDive planes, intakes, bow plane bitsHull 3A and 3B Inside View

            Comment

            • hywel
              Lieutenant
              • Aug 2022
              • 65

              #7
              Also, ordered a starter kit, a pair of brass props, the VEX 6 channel radio and Bob's book (which is an EXCELLENT read).

              Finally, ordered paint - I know I might be getting ahead of myself (if you saw my paint collection for finishing my R/C cars and tanks you'd understand0 but figured I may as well get it. Bob recommended:

              Liquitex Professional Spray Paint - 12oz/400ml, Cadmium Red Medium Hue
              Liquitex Professional Spray Paint - 12oz/400ml, Carbon Black

              Note that Amazon doesn't seem to have much in stock in the way of the red colours, so I went direct to the Liquitex website and ordered from there no problem - it's already on its way to me.

              Until the next time...

              Comment

              • hywel
                Lieutenant
                • Aug 2022
                • 65

                #8
                Oh and another thing! I may be a little OCD, but here is my print log. If something has a tick next to it, it's printed, and the time is rounded up or down to the nearest hour. No checkmark means that's an estimate and is likely too low (Chitubox slicer is awful at estimations). For anyone who's completed the kit, you'll know that everything is not on here yet, but I figured this would be enough to get me going.

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                Comment

                • FindingNemo
                  Lieutenant, Junior Grade
                  • May 2022
                  • 47

                  #9
                  Originally posted by hywel
                  Here goes, some updated pics. Generally, I'm finding the hull components to take +- 23 hrs, so, luckily, the top and bottom will fit on the plate simultaneously. Other various bits and bobs have been printed too. The Mars is a TON faster than the Peopoly. The Hull #3 parts printed well, but the "vent" area was too fine to print correctly - no big deal can put a mesh of some kind in there.

                  Missiles, missile tubes, missile hatch covers, and Hull 2
                  Hull 3A and Hull 3B Outside ViewDive planes, intakes, bow plane bitsHull 3A and 3B Inside View
                  It's interesting to see that hull section 3 on both my filament printer and your resin results in a flare towards the rear end. I don't believe this is part of the design from what I can see, and had assumed it was due to cooling/shrinkage before seeing the resin result. But perhaps it's an artefact of the slicer algorithm?
                  Interesting to see the vent didn't work- I thought the resin printer would be better on the detail.
                  It's hard to tell in the photos but I get the impression the line work has come out quite thick?
                  (As you can see I know nothing about resin printers..)

                  The missile hatches look fantastic. With the filament print the issue was finding out which way to orientate them, as the bed side suffers where supports are needed. I've had to fill the curved section.
                  Last edited by FindingNemo; 08-13-2022, 09:43 PM.

                  Comment

                  • hywel
                    Lieutenant
                    • Aug 2022
                    • 65

                    #10
                    Yep, definitely a little squish needed to get the sections together, but nothing too bad; just wish I could join two sections together to print to get less joins. It’d be a long print time, but worth it.

                    interesting thing on the vents, the same one either side printed about halfway, but the others were just naff, so I cut them out before I cured the print.

                    I don’t know WHY they didn’t print, but I know they can - just not worth spending much time debugging that imho.

                    if you want me to print you a set of the missile hatches, happy to print them for you; they were actually wicked simple and fast to do.

                    the lines were not TOO deep, I’ll take better pics of tomorrow’s print.

                    Comment

                    • FindingNemo
                      Lieutenant, Junior Grade
                      • May 2022
                      • 47

                      #11
                      Originally posted by hywel
                      Also, ordered a starter kit, a pair of brass props, the VEX 6 channel radio and Bob's book (which is an EXCELLENT read).

                      Finally, ordered paint - I know I might be getting ahead of myself (if you saw my paint collection for finishing my R/C cars and tanks you'd understand0 but figured I may as well get it. Bob recommended:

                      Liquitex Professional Spray Paint - 12oz/400ml, Cadmium Red Medium Hue
                      Liquitex Professional Spray Paint - 12oz/400ml, Carbon Black

                      Note that Amazon doesn't seem to have much in stock in the way of the red colours, so I went direct to the Liquitex website and ordered from there no problem - it's already on its way to me.

                      Until the next time...
                      I'm still looking into colours.
                      I haven't actually seen red anti-foul on any real Typhoon pictures? So far I haven't found much to go on, except a poor quality documentary (linked). which seems to show grey/black, except for waterline marks and the reactor cooler inlet vent (which could be anything from white to orange..
                      I wouldn't be surprised though if this changed through the life of the series or even a particular vessel.
                      Though this documentary near the end shows one of the officers has a model of the Typhoon with the red lower hull :)
                      What information do you have for the colour scheme?


                      Regards, Colin.

                      Comment

                      • hywel
                        Lieutenant
                        • Aug 2022
                        • 65

                        #12
                        I went with Bobs suggested colours in his build video (I emailed him on the red as I couldn’t find where he pointed it out).

                        Other than that, I’ve done no research I’m afraid!

                        I will watch the video tomorrow, sounds like it’ll be a good watch!

                        cheers,

                        - hywel

                        Comment

                        • FindingNemo
                          Lieutenant, Junior Grade
                          • May 2022
                          • 47

                          #13
                          I've started periscope/antenna research. These won't print on my printer, but perhaps the resin printer would show the detail. If I make progress are you willing to be the guinea pig? Then you could send me a set as well as those missle doors if all goes well.

                          Comment

                          • RCSubGuy
                            Welcome to my underwater realm!
                            • Aug 2009
                            • 1777

                            #14
                            I have the files done up for Russian boat periscopes and masts in 1:144. Here is the link to the files:

                            These periscopes and masts are rendered in 1:144 scale, but can be scaled to anything you have need for. Nested on a build platform for easy printing, these are NOT recommended for FDM (filament) printers due to their detail and fragility. These are designed to mount to a piece of aluminum tubing and the detail parts represent the tops of the masts and periscopes.

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                            Bob
                            Last edited by RCSubGuy; 08-15-2022, 06:48 AM.

                            Comment

                            • hywel
                              Lieutenant
                              • Aug 2022
                              • 65

                              #15
                              Originally posted by FindingNemo
                              I've started periscope/antenna research. These won't print on my printer, but perhaps the resin printer would show the detail. If I make progress are you willing to be the guinea pig? Then you could send me a set as well as those missle doors if all goes well.
                              Absolutely I'm down to be the guinea pig!

                              Comment

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