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1/48 Type 214 costumer build

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  • #31
    That will be a beauty in the water or on display. Well done Steve!
    If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.


    • #32
      Steve, your work is as good as ever. I want to see the Spacex rocket.


      • #33
        Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post
        You've pretty much beat this thing into submission, Steve. Now you have a sharp looking boat! Elbow-grease, and determination -- the one-two punch of good model builders. Well done, sir.

        You've been a great teacher over the years David(and continue to be) and I appreciated that very much. Your generous passing on of the craft to all of us is one of those beautiful things that makes the world truly go around.


        • #34
          Thanks guys it's very nice of you all to say. It doesn't get any easier as we get older. There are aches and pains, one of my thumbs has arthritis and can be quite excruciating at times but this work has the amazing capacity to allow oneself to ignore it while deeply focused on the task in front of you. This is why we never stop. If you do it can mean certain death. I have seen it among my old friends that at my own age and even younger gave up and lost there passion. Another words kids this stuff is keeping us alive longer.

          With that said I worked all day on the boat. I didn't mean to I have the Enterprise to finish for a customer and out studio products to work on which one of is of course the Dragon Capsule. This was started a few months back as one of our model rocket kit series. Also we have a Patreon site and a few subscribers and the ones that subscribe at 10 dollars or more get a free kit as our way of saying thanks. The capsule has a Falcon 9 launch vehicle that goes with it. BT-60 based and flies on D-E engines.

          I found that the WTC mounts sat too low for the WTC to be it the preferred position. So I added thick styrene extensions and carefully got the prop drive shaft of the WTC inline with the prop shaft itself. Sounds easy but as you know even with a large sub like this one it's hard to get your big fat hands in there to make a lot of constant adjustments before that "Ding!" rings. First comes a lot of cussing and trying again and again. But I got the WTC center in width, height, and on the CG. With 4 mounts that takes some doing.

          I cut a bit away of the hull so you don't have to stretch apart the hull to drop in the WTC at the ballast tank which is quite large. This model will have plenty of free board. I used Apoxie sculpt to secure well the mounts. Not pretty but functional.

          The prop shaft support bearing in inbound too and fill be fitted to that bulkhead. I had to make a new one because the first one made it impossible to have easy access to the control yokes. It at it's furthest point forward which allowed me to tighten down the grub screws. It's tight back there.

          I have good travel in the appendages although I did find that the shafts embedded in the kit supplied parts to be a bit off center. So if you rotate to far they will bind. This will require a bit of removal of material from the round for the rudders only. As you can see the dive planes have plenty.

          Bob's 3D printed yokes work great BTW.

          Went back over the appendages for another pass and more primer they look pretty clean now. This is all the grunt work and while I wait for Bob's new prop shaft and bearings to show up I'll move on to further preening on the hull. I have 1/16 brass inbound too to make up the yokes I'll need to control the rudder and dive planes. Add the rest of the PE parts and the array. Plenty to do still but getting there.

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          Last edited by SteveNeill; 06-05-2020, 10:03 AM.


          • #35
            I forgot that picture of the Dragon master which is still under construction. To be molded in RTV and cast in BJB 808 hallow cast. It's kinda a submarine. Travels in 3 dimensions, sealed off from the outside environment and water tight.

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            • #36
              I spent the whole long day getting this WTC assembled. Although initially I had the cylinder apart laid out, everything installed and working quite well I then had to put it together and close it up to test in the boat. That was another matter all together.

              Where I had placed the smaller of two receivers that came with the supplied radio system the pump would not allow for it to fit in that location. In fact I couldn't find a spot where it would except on top of the ESC. Not my first choice to have it sit there, ESCs even with the large Capacitor that was added can still make noise in a 72 mhz system. Not to mention the heat it generates under load. Even placed there I could barely get the compartment closed.

              The other problem is the amount of wiring generated by all the equipment. ESC, motor leads, servo wires and extensions. This caused a bundle nightmare that can only be cured by reducing the length of all the output wires which will take some time, cutting, soldering and refitting until there's a bit more breathing room in there. Then and only then there is just enough space to fit in the receiver where I had originally placed it. I hope.

              As for the remote wireless on-off switch, that's a goner as the picture clearly points out. There is no way this elephant is going to fit. Where a third servo would have gone(it's not needed) will be an actual on-off switch hooked to a brass rod through the seal to the outside where you can turn the cylinder off and on. I do this all the time.

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              • #37

                Another day of Elephant stuffing

                So I got that elephant to fit. I started by reducing the length of every bit of wiring I could and bundling and rapping in electrical tape everything else I could. The end result was a nice easy to fit aft section of the cylinder. Still no room for the on off feature but the single shaft on - off switch works easy and this cylinder is easy to take apart and reassemble in a heart beat. No issues.

                Except one I have unplugged the auto leveler because it causes glitching and lack of control in the stern planes. I fiddled with it for an hour and never got favorable results. I had this happen with another sub of mind I built. I'll go back to it later.

                All systems are go now. But I did have this weird noise apparent in the hull as if there was a vibration caused the rotation of the appendages both rudder and stern planes. When I would disconnect them from the cylinder and move them by hand they were smooth and quiet. Hook them back up to the cylinder and the sound would return. And they didn't move smoothly. There was a resistance.

                Now completely baffled and annoyed I disconnected and just listened and felt the control rods from the cylinder. That's when I found it. As the brass rods move in and out of the seals they vibrate and make the noise that transfers through the brass rods to the yokes and into the hull like a speaker. OK. Found the noise. First thing I'll be asked is are they lubed? Yes. Silicone grease.

                Today I'm going to take apart the cylinder again and make sure they are dead straight going through the seal casement because there's the problem me thinks. The brass rods are rubbing just enough against the resin seal encasement to drag and make the noise.

                We also have a prop that's out of round. It's not real bad but there's really no way to fix it except get another prop. It's slightly tilted on the shaft. Seems to smooth a bit when you rev it up but at low RPM it's apparent.

                I'll get this all sorted out but now for those of you that don't realize what's involved in building a model submarine(especially those of that claim my insanity when you ask me how much to build your boat) that building model submarines, isn't for sissies! It can sometimes me harder than first thought and takes patience and at times nerves of steel.

                This comes at no fault to the makers of these boats or their components. Everything is hand made and in some cases mast produced in their garages. Sometimes things get missed, mistakes made but this is to be expected and any seasoned modeler should know these things. So fix it or get a replacement but never accuse these hard working people of being at fault. I've seen it on the net. Talk to the vendor always. They will work hard to help you.

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                First I shortened the motor leads and added bullet connectors. Yes I know the servos are not in the correct position. I fixed this later.

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                There. It fits great now. Oh I did get one of David's nifty servo mounts so I made my own out of PVC.

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                • #38
                  Put a 1/16" drill bit in the pushrod seal hole and start it turning at a moderate RPM (a variable speed drill is the tool of choice here). As the bit turns skew the drill angle a few degrees and describe a circle at this skew angle. This will bore out the resin ahead and aft of the internal seal O-ring into an hour-glass shape. And it will do so without damaging the rubber seal itself. You now not only have a non-interference fit between the resin body of the seal, but you have also imparted the ability of the installed pushrod to translate significantly from the longitudinal axis of the seal body, while still maintaining a watertight seal between pushrod and MSD. This will unbind your pushrods, Steve.

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                  I do this hour-glass trick here, but obviously, you need more clearance, Clarence (sorry).


                  "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"


                  • #39
                    As always sir you are the best. Thanks for always being there for us and the care you take in helping us all here to enjoy something we love. This is another great tip to add to my ever growing data base.


                    • #40
                      I dealt with the wireless on/off switch by uncasing it and placing it in the battery compartment. Still bulky, I actually hit the corners of the circuit board with the file to take off the sharp edges as it's diagonal dimension is very close to the ID of the cylinder. I haven't figured out a permanent mounting yet but I think it will involve something 3d printed. Still leaves room for my 2200 3s battery up front.

                      "It does not take so many words to speak the truth" Chief Joseph


                      • #41
                        So lets see. Where do I begin. Making the bow planes functional (if they are really "Functional" at all). What I mean by this is, do they have any influence on the boats behavior at this size or not? Do they just look cool moving.

                        I have found in most cases with the exception of the Type 7 and a few other boats that they just look cool because they move. Yes on the Gato and VIIC they work. But these 214 mid planes are so small and not nearly as far forward of the CG to make me wonder because I'm going through a lot of trial and error to get them to move.

                        The WTC has two servos in the front. They are forward of the planes. I have two choices. Run a long shaft from the aft dives planes control to the bow planes or bend backwards 1/16 wobbly wire on magnets to the forward control shafts. I tried that. It works but it's kinda of funky. As you can see in the picture I have this bent control shaft. It's a temporary and it works. If I go this route I will use it as a pattern to make some a bit more palatable to the eye.

                        The other issue I have with this model is the resin cast parts. Although most are OK this one dive plane was cast poorly. Either the resin was old or not mixed thoroughly because no matter what I do it sweats an oily substance that eventually comes of through the primer. The primer remains gooey and nothing I have tried seals it.

                        So the only option I have is to scratch build a new dive plane. Not what I bargained for on a customer build.

                        Today I will finalize the bow planes and with any luck move on to the model building and painting of this model.

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                        • #42
                          Been a while since I've been able to stop by, but great work, Steve! Loving it so far.

                          In regard to the remote switch, yes, it needs to be removed from the casing. That done, your size is reduced considerably and there is ample room to drop it in the battery compartment, tucked over the LiPo, or you can go twin 1500mAh batteries and have TONS of extra room to put it in. There are also smaller versions, but only rated at 10A, which should be fine, but the 15A unit would make me feel better.



                          • #43
                            Oh, and in regard to your dive plane, that situation is often caused by inaccurate measuring, not mixing thoroughly or by curing in cold temperatures. Try moving your piece to a warmer spot, or even curing in the oven at very low temps for a few hours. If it doesn't dry, try coating it with a thin layer of properly mixed resin.


                            • #44
                              Thanks Bob! Well I did it. Perfect bow planes. Pictures later on but it's all solved.


                              • #45
                                Well after another three hours of head scratch and engineering that worked but didn't live up to my expectations I scrapped everything I was doing for the past two days and did the most simplistic thing I had a mind to do but didn't think would work on this boat. It did.

                                I ran a carbon rod with brass connectors both ends from the stern planes control shaft to the bow plains. In 30 minutes I had extremely well working plains, solid, lots of travel and smooth. Just perfect. Sometimes when things seem to good to be true they actually are true.

                                Installing the connector to the stern planes via a magnet is dead simple and reliable. I was able to turn on the boat and in seconds close it, put in the one screw to hold the deck down and was ready for action. Good!

                                Don't worry that brass attached to the resin will be wrapped and sealed with CA and thread. Now that it's all functional I need to finalize everything, clean it up and secure it for good.

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                                Last edited by SteveNeill; 06-24-2020, 09:43 AM.