Boats from the Dry Docks arrive- VIIC, Nautilus and XXIII

[SteveNeill]

No worries Bob I got it all working. Thanks for the help.

[RCSubGuy]

The 3/16" adapters aren't for the drive shaft, Steve. They're for the output shafts of the cylinder. Those connect to the end of the secondary shaft via a dogbone (which you sleeve onto the 4mm shaft). 4mm universals get your angle right.

[SteveNeill]

Got stuck working in the U-boat all day yesterday. What should have taken only and hour(he says knowingly) took hours. Getting the pesky dogbone drive shafts installed drove me mad. I had it all working before but the couplers slipped. You see here in the states David Merriman used for his prop shafts 3/16 stainless steel for his cylinder. But the Chinese saw fit to use metric shafts for the props for the actual model. So in order to get the 3/16 couplers to fit the metric prop shafts (which are under sized) you have to make a brass insert sleeve. You see, they don't make metric couplers that I know of. Dumas only 3/16 or 1/8th. I know...drill out a 1/8th to the correct size...that didn't work out so well. Don't ask. I guess I need a better drill press vice.
So the first sleeves I had slipped, were too hard to adjust so I made good ones with the holes drilled into the brass so the grub screws could pass through sleeve and tighten down on the flat spot on the prop shafts. Once this is all done it's a simple matter(wink wink nudge nudge say no more) loosening the grub screws, spreading the couplers either end apart and slipping the dog bones in. It is when you can get your hands in there. It's a tight space back there in the stern.
Add to all this that once I had the WTC(water tight cylinder) in place I turned the radio to find the dive planes servo(that was working before) was not working. In addition to that I had no throttle.
So take out the WTC from the model, take the WTC apart and I find that the receiver I was using must have got water on it at one time enough to corrode the pins that accept the servo plugs. OK we cleaned all that off and it's all working. I even checked to see first if that servo was indeed functional by swapping channels to the rudder channel I knew was working. This would bite me later on.
So Everything is working. I put it all back together. Dog bones now fixed install pretty quick. I turn on everything and it all works. Huzzah! Wait a minute. Rudder is dive planes and dive planes are rudder! You dummy you forgot to which back the servos after you checked. After much cursing and expletives shouted I took the cylinder out again and made sure everything is in the right place. It is...put the damn thing back in again.
By now I'm becoming and expert on my new boat taking things on and out and hooking up those drive shafts. This time I got it all installed and working in a matter of minutes and everything works great! Look up at the clock and it's 5 pm! Shot the whole day. But shes ready to trim today. Video to follow next week of it's rimming. Following weekend she goes for a run in a larger pool I have access to.
On a good note you see here the Nautilus on the bench and we are starting her next. This is an easier build. I have built many of these for customers this size and they all worked great.
And one last observation about this particular hobby. Radio controlled submarines is like no other radio controlled model. Planes are simple by comparison, cars very simple, boats very simple. If your one of these modelers and get offended by this comment think about this first.
Radio controlled submarine is a boat model you deliberately sink and raise to the surface again. It has to be water proof and function well both under the water and on the surface. It takes a lot more technology, know how, skill, and craft than any other Hobby I have experienced. As long as I have been building subs I have fought with leaks, equipment failures, and mysteries that you have to solve. This hobby makes you a better modeler but an even better problem solver and an innovative maker. In short radio controlled submarines aren't for sissy's!submarines aren't for sissy's!

[SteveNeill]

Darrin thank you. I have an old BigDave RCABS cylinder for it I use in my Skipjack that works great I'll be using for the 23. I'm excited to build the 23 I always loved that boat. But The Nautilus is next because it's a easy quick build and Mary loves the Nautilus.

[ffr2608]

Excellent work Steve. What a great size for the 7. Did you get a WTC for the 23 too?

D

[SteveNeill]

I got this new little handheld self contained airbrush to add to my ever growing collection of airbrushes. For 50 buckets this is really nice and perfect for touch up and weathering. You are free from noise and a long hose. The double action I have never got use to but I'm trying now. As a result my attempts to weather this boat are a bit heavy handed for my tastes. I'll be toning this all down as soon as my Vallejo rust kit shows up: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

She's cleared coated and ready for hot tube trials tomorrow. Ballast and flotation in. WTC tested and no leaks found. Tight as a drum. I'll be shooting video of the timing session for your amusement.

Got a Type 214 inbound I'll be building for a customer. Due in next week I'll start the Nautilus next in the interim.


Airbrush can be had here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[SteveNeill]

Thanks Rob and Darrin! Yes it is like the good ole days of building. I missed it. The hat is a www.warhats.com authentic reproduction hat of theirs. It was a gift from a few years back. I got two of the flotilla hat pins from U-96 yesterday from them. I realized I had inadvertently did that boat when I painted it. The Sawfish is on the left side of the tower.

[rwtdiver]

Nice job Steve! As per Darrin, it is great to see the old time craftsmanship is still alive and doing well!

Note: I really like your hat!!!:-)

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

[ffr2608]

Looks nice Steve. Like the good old days building again.

Darrin

[SteveNeill]

Getting there!

[SteveNeill]

A bit more work still. I got the snort valve setup to fit inside the tower near the hatch. I had to remove some plastic inside for the scope tunnels. This meant I had to rip out some of the lighting wiring. In hindsight I should have mounted the valve first. Will reroute and clean up the wiring. No big deal. Now that all the business work is done I can finish off the cosmetics and call this boats done.

I did install the pigtail water tight cable for lighting in the forward compartment of the WTC. And yes Bob I will put in that brass tube and fuel tubing for linking testing. ;)

Started fiddling a bit on the Nautilus. I have built four of these now for customers this one is for me and will have all the bells and whistles. She is tiny but these run like bigger boats and are a real joy. Type 23 in the back will get the razor cut deck opening next.

[SteveNeill]

Hey Steve, very nice work. J

Thank you J!

[Slats]

Hey Steve, very nice work. J

[SteveNeill]

Nice work, Steve.


Not sure if you were give the planes and rudder full throw on the sticks, but if so, you'll want to adjust or rework your linkages for more deflection. The stock setup from Ark is, for lack of a better term, substandard. You'll need to build your own linkages there. Aim for a minimum of 30 degrees of deflection. It will definitely work as is, but she'll be sluggish.


Bob

Thanks Bob!

[RCSubGuy]

Nice work, Steve.


Not sure if you were give the planes and rudder full throw on the sticks, but if so, you'll want to adjust or rework your linkages for more deflection. The stock setup from Ark is, for lack of a better term, substandard. You'll need to build your own linkages there. Aim for a minimum of 30 degrees of deflection. It will definitely work as is, but she'll be sluggish.


Bob