Boats from the Dry Docks arrive- VIIC, Nautilus and XXIII

[SteveNeill]

So...my idea about putting a dab of clear silicone on the stopper and pushing it down on the nipple worked. Once it set up it released from the nipple. In the silicone you can see it has a cork shaped plug. I put it under water and pulled hard and not a single drop of water got in. I did it over and over again with the same results. Worked like a charm.

[SteveNeill]

Manfred I did think of doing that but thought it was too simple. Thank you for the advice! But real culprit here I think is me. If when under water I would remember to let the boat rise and assist with the planes until I'l on the surface and the valve is clear then pump air in I might be better off. Still I will add the foam.

[MFR1964]

Steve,

It seems the pressure for sealing the tube is too low, you stated by slightly pushing it sealed, why don't you add some styrodure to the float, giving you more pressure at the inlet tube, if i remember right David also has added a weigth inside the float to get the inlet free when surfacing, don't play with that, you need the weight to keep a proper functional float.

Manfred.

[SteveNeill]

Another observation here is Bob that you trim neutral. I did too. Sail sits up about half way out of the water. But when you dive using the planes you come back up using the planes and once on the surface at neutral trim only then do you engage the pump? This is why on the Nautilus you have no float valve at all? Sorry for all the endless questions but between using OTW cylinders and BigDave's SAS I am knew to. Any the way you learn anything new you got to ask questions. I'll brighten up quickly as a result of the answers I'm getting from you kind gentlemen.

[SteveNeill]

Thanks Bob and thank you David. I tried to do what you suggested David and it help a bit. But if the pump pulls a slow but steady stream of water in. If I force it just a bit by hand it stops. I am considering just lubing up the nipple with a bit of Vasiline and place a drop of silicone on the blue silicone stopper that will set up and form a seal around the nipple. Since the brass arm is so solid without play right to left it should seal every time. We'll see.

Bob I will look forward to seeing the video. I'm a sort of visual guy, when I see it it sinks right in.

[RCSubGuy]

When I get my feet under me this week, I will do a video of SNORT conversion.

But basically, just remove the snorkel and safetly float valve and connect the hoses.

Air path:

Intake in sail/mast
Cylinder bulkhead
Pump intake
Pump outlet
Cylinder bulkhead
Ballast tank

[SteveNeill]

Bob thank you so much. Can you point me to something visual that shows me what you did? Thanks again!

[RCSubGuy]

Posting this from my seat in the airplane ready to get home from Victoria BC, so I've only got a moment.

Steve, you need to make sure that the valve stopper engages directly with the brass intake mouth and cannot swivel, tilt, or otherwise come misaligned. Any deviation will cause an imperfect seal and allow water into the cylinder.

To be honest, I do not like using the full static SAS system, as reliable as it has been for me. I recommend and prefer to remove the snorkel and safetly float valve, and plumb the hose directly to the pump. That way, there is no way for a leak from the valves.

You lose the ability to do a full static dive, but that's, honestly, an overrated function anyway. I blast all my boats slightly positive and achieve superb results.

[redboat219]

Maybe the snort valve isn't seating well. Try replacing the silicone valve cover or smooth out the resin valve seat.

[SteveNeill]

[SteveNeill]

The tests went pretty well. The boat handles nicely but I did get water into the WTC that prevented me testing any further. I did get a dive but not on video. Never the less I did get water in the WTC s I pulled the plug before I damaged the electronics.

I knew the cylinder itself had no leaks. I tested for that thoroughly. So it was a bit of a head scratcher until I saw traces of water in the snort airline. I was inducting water through the snort and into the pump thus dropping some, not a lot but enough that one servo plug got wet enough that is stopped responding on the dive planes. This is what made it hard to dive.

So I took the tower off the boat suspecting the snort valve wasn't closing tight enough. I put the hoes into my mouth and placed the tower under the surface. I pulled as if the pump would do when bringing the boat up to decks awash. I was getting water into my mouth with the valve closed and when I reached the surface a bunch more. After I had dived and surfaced a few times in the pool this is what accumulated at the bottom of both compartments. Not a lot for the time I ran it but enough to cause problems.

The big question is how do I make that snort valve that's in the tower more secure? Maybe I need the valve lower down inside the tower? Its right at the top. I bent the lever down a bit so under water it gives it more swing and closes tight but still it draws water in when the tower is fully submerged.

[rwtdiver]

Steve! That was a great video! That boat really looks great, and it looks like it is going to be a performer when you get it to the pool.

Did you use an airbrush to get the final finish? (Which is awesome by-the-way) I am really looking forward to my first static diving boat! Looking forward to your maiden in the big pool, that is going to be one cool looking Submarine underway! Super great build Steve!!

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

[SteveNeill]

Bob I over did it but thanks! Great boat and great trimming. Here's the video at my condo.

[RCSubGuy]

Gorgeous work on the paint, Steve! Wow! I love it!

[SteveNeill]

I got an excellent trim. Most guessed it and only ended up needing a small piece of foam in the stern and a couple more lead weights in the bow and it was perfect. All systems go. WTC works great.

Next weekend she goes to a pool locally for a real run.