USS SHARK SSN-591: Refit Log 2019-04-17 (1:48 DeBoer Skipjack)

[QuarterMaster]

Stoopid Replicator! I ask for Scarlett Johansson and I get a 585 Class Submarine dorsal rudder in 1:48 Scale. 85% fill ABS.

If it did work, I'd probably get a 1:48 Scale orange Miss Johansson.

Many of you who know of, or own the 1:48 Scale DeBoer SKIPJACK, understand she suffers from some issues, least of which is the not to scale control surfaces. The Stern planes in fact are not only the wrong size, but the wrong shape and are FULL throw planes, like the elevators on an F-14 Tomcat (GO GRUMMAN!!).

After hearing about the control issues I was having, my fellow Islander (actually he hails from Brooklyn, like Ralph Kramden) Fred Swendsen handed me a set of correct stern planes for the boat. He’s in process of building up his own DeBoer and we’re sharing tech and goodies! Not only is this the coolest hobby, but the fellowship is among the best!!

Anyhoo……

They not only look right, but the pitch control is a lot more stable! Or as “HWSNBN” had stated to me , much more control authority. Cheez-and crackers what a difference!!

So the other day when I had the Sub ID Beacon epiphany, and subsequent success, I decided I’m adding lights to the 591 as well. This means I need a stern light on the rudder.

The rudder is not only undersized, but would need to be remade anyway for wire access to the 135° white light up there. The sock rudder is too thin as well @ 9/32”. A command decision was made: Make ALL the tail feathers correct!!

So out came the plans, TinkerCad, and my Monoprice Voxel!

All in all not bad for an ABS print! Some minor sanding, filler and mold prep, we’ll be good to go. I was going to use them as is, because I tend to do one-offs, but in this case it makes more sense. I lost a lower rudder once. Print time was close to 8 hours.







Now I'm just about ready for the Long Island "Right of Spring" passage, our infamous "Trim Party" (hide your women!!).

[trout]

Ed,
tell me about the light on the aft plane. It blinks?
what about the amber light? Is that used on subs? I thought it was and that is what blinks, help me obi-wan!

[QuarterMaster]

Ed,
tell me about the light on the aft plane. It blinks?
what about the amber light? Is that used on subs? I thought it was and that is what blinks, help me obi-wan!

Tom,

In our case, All navigation lights with exception of the Amber Sub ID Beacon are Fixed (non-Flashing lights).

If you go back to the Sub ID post and you'll see the colors for all the lights as well as their Arc of visibility.

Not so briefly......
Masthead, Fixed White, 225° visibility (from 112.5° either side of the bow going aft) This identifies the vessel as Powered. The ability to make way on its own. Unlike a sailboat which depends on outside forces, the wind, and will not have this light.

Port Sidelight, Fixed Red, 112.5° Arc of visibility aft from the bow along the PORT side. (Driver's side to the lubber lol)
Indicates which side of the vessel your looking at.

Starboard Sidelight, Fixed Green, 112.5° Arc of visibility aft from the bow along the STARBOARD side. (Passengers side to the lubber lol)
Indicates which side of the vessel your looking at.

If it's night, and you see all three of the above lights, you're in trouble as a powered vessel is bearing down on you. The mastehead is typically above the sidelights. So you see a triangle pointing up and you turn away to avoid a collision.

Stern light, Fixed White, 135° visibility (from 67.5° either side of the Stern going fwd) because of the position and it's Arc of visibility, you would only see this light as the vessel is pointing away. if the vessel us showing you her Port or Starboard quarter, you see the red or green sidelights and she has an ~112° Angle on the bow heading away. Just a single white light and she's heading directly away. This light is typically lower than the others. Typically mounted on a subs rudder and why I'm redoing mine lol.

The Sub ID is a 360° light and is visible from all around, coming directly at you you see 4 lights, the aforementioned triangle with the Sub ID above the top point. Heading away you see two, the Stern with the Sub id above it.

This actually helps you navigate your model on a night run.

FWIW, the only other flashing nav light I remember is the hovercraft Quick Flashing yellow. 90 flashes/minute.

Next week we discuss TMA (Target Motion Analysis) and the 32 points of the compass.

[Scott T]

So were you able to print the rudder with a shaft hole?

[QuarterMaster]

So were you able to print the rudder with a shaft hole?

Yes, it's actually smaller than the design hole diameter due to tolerance issues, but easily drilled out.

[The Boattrainman]

Excellent, I see 3D printing more and more coming into the field.

Just wondering what a decent printer set-up would cost, have the necessary IT smarts, but is there a huge investment involved? Do you need to go for a high end model or is it possible on a budget?

Rob

[firemanjim]

I might have to hire you to make me a set of rudders as well, Ed.
Having a lot of trouble changing course with my USS Shark as well and I'm sure that a new set of rudders and even dive planes might be in order.

How's that USS Nautilus project of yours doing by the way?

[QuarterMaster]

Excellent, I see 3D printing more and more coming into the field.

Just wondering what a decent printer set-up would cost, have the necessary IT smarts, but is there a huge investment involved? Do you need to go for a high end model or is it possible on a budget?

Rob

Both Ray Mason and I purchased the Monoprice Voxel, which is a rebranded Flashforge Adventruer 3hichback in January on sale for $319. It's my first and only machine, so I can't really make any recommendations. It's really easy to use and I don't regret it as it satisfy's my needs.

I see they list around $449

[QuarterMaster]

I might have to hire you to make me a set of rudders as well, Ed.
Having a lot of trouble changing course with my USS Shark as well and I'm sure that a new set of rudders and even dive planes might be in order.

How's that USS Nautilus project of yours doing by the way?

That's strange regarding maneuverability. She's no 1:96 toy and requires the room, mine has turned withing a body length or so submerged and at speed and I never had a problem. Again I'm doing this mostly for the light.

To be honest, please understand that for personal reasons I do absolutely do not mix business with pleasure. Therefore I will not take on work, consignment or otherwise, or sell Items I make/made, or make them available for sale.

Sorry.....

I would be happy to pass on the Rudder .stl file if you want, drop me an email. You can then send it to an online printer.

As for 571, it's 5th on the list. Here's the current build order.....

SSBN 631: 2019 Spring Commissioning
SSN 591: Completing Spring refit then 2019 Spring Commissioning
U-91035: On the way's ~ 60% complete.
SSN 722: (1/48 688) Commencing MAJOR overhaul.
SSN 571: In que-New Construction
SSRN SEAVIEW: In que-MAJOR overhaul.
K432: In que-MAJOR overhaul.
SS 581: In que-MAJOR overhaul.

[The Boattrainman]

Thanks for the heads up on the 3D printer Ed.

Rob

[trout]

When I lived in upstate New York, as a child I took the Junior watercraft navigation course to get certified. I learned a lot including a phrase they used to remember which sidestarboard and port are on. It was starboard - starbright - right. Then we could assume the other was port. Thank you for clarifying Ed!

[Subculture]

I have a Creality Ender 2 printer. You can pick them up on ebay for ninety quid. Excellent little device although it does need a little tinkering to get the best out of it. Print quality matches the best of FDM machines. Print area is 15cmx15cm by 20cm high, sufficient for my needs. Some go for a larger format printer (e.g. Ender 3, CR10 etc.), but prices escalate fast, plus the machines take up more room, and I don't need a 20cmx20cm build plate.

Choosing a model depends on whether you want something to largely plug in and go, or something that needs assembling and little fettling here and there to get it 100%. Ender 2 is really only suitable for PLA printing though, as it doesn't have an enclosure, which you'll need for ABS. I think PLA is fine for our uses.

The main area of expertise in 3d printing is drawing out the CAD files and your skill in designing things. I use Fusion 360 for CAD and Cura for slicing. Cura is pretty straightforward once you understand what all the printer settings are for (there are a LOT). Cad is a bit more involved, especially i you want to make some more sophisticated shapes. I'm still a beginner at that.

I like to mix and match- still prefer to whittle away with hand tools, but see the potential of this for many things, and the price is now easily accessible. One aspect often overlooked is that they can be expert jig creators.

[firemanjim]

Yeah, she's a big girl Ed and I wasn't expecting her to turn on a dime, but she really has a problem turning to port.
I'm gonna try adjusting the throw on my rudder and if that don't work, I'll hit you up on that file....thanks!

[QuarterMaster]

I like to mix and match- still prefer to whittle away with hand tools, but see the potential of this for many things, and the price is now easily accessible. One aspect often overlooked is that they can be expert jig creators.

My sentiments exactly. It's just a tool that has it's place, like the hammer, screwdriver, exacto etc. Humans and the technology they use evolve. You can ask the dinosaurs what happens if you don't. In my field, the first Engineer out the door during a layoff is the one that refuses to accept the change. Whether it's software, procedures or process's.
After all we can't all get on sticking with bear skins and stone knives.

Every tool has it's role to play.

++ on the jig as well!!

FWIW, 3D Modeling has it's own craftmanship behind it.

[QuarterMaster]

Yeah, she's a big girl Ed and I wasn't expecting her to turn on a dime, but she really has a problem turning to port.
I'm gonna try adjusting the throw on my rudder and if that don't work, I'll hit you up on that file....thanks!

RH or LH prop? Better yet, CW OR CCW rotation viewed from the stern?

It's the stock prop right? I think HWMNBN can attest they are more like paddles than true props and may induce a greater prop walk, which may make turning in one direction more difficult. In your case Port.

Is this behavior surfaced or submerged or both?

When running surfaced, you need to hold rise on the stern planes to bury the prop. I find using the trim lever/tab sufficient to do this. The shape of the bow on a modern nuke boat forces the bow down and the prop up. On the boat I served, 627 JAMES MADISON Class we were required to give 20° rise on the stern planes when running surfaced to negate the effect. This should get the upper rudder low too. Look at real life SKIPJACK's running on the surface on a good Bell, and you'll see the squat keeping that stern low!!

You can of course try running her directly away from you with rudder amidships and see if she prefers turning in the same direction each time. Do the same with her coming at you to cancel the effects of wind and current. This will indicate prop walk. Adjust trim to cancel, then try your turns.

This is the boat Bob made a video of, right? I'll take a look again but I didn't notice anything odd.

Again, 1:48 scale is typically not a pool boat.