Jimmy Carter - 1/144

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Looks like good, clean kit assembly there. How about some close-up shots of the exterior and interior. I want to see how you worked out the linkage to the bow planes. How were the markings achieved?

And lets have some video of this thing on and under the water. And take pictures of you shop (don't clean it, take them raw!) -- I find a man's working space to be the true picture into his state-of-mind.

And world peace …..... do something about that too!

David

[DMTNT]

I have got to say, I am pretty damn pleased how this turned out.

Comments & criticism welcome, as always.

[vital.spark]

On the Seawolf, I just tape an extension on the lower rudder using 3M blue painters tape when running and remove after the run!

[trout]

I wonder......When I used to go flyfishing in winter, ice would form on my eyelets. When surfaced, could ice prevent the float from closing completely?

[DMTNT]

Yeah, yeah. Slap me around till you're happy. I don't like rudder cheats like that either. However, sometimes you just have to be pragmatic about it: You want a model that runs well or is a slave to scale? Pick one!

The one great sin against God in my book is having to increase the lower rudder area on the beautiful ALFA models. SEAWOLF? Who cares.... … that thing was born ugly!

On occasion I had to break surface ice in order to launch and recover r/c model submarines. And that's with both propellant and SAS based ballast blow sub-systems. Temperature (particularly low temperature) has not been an operational issue in my experience. The only degradation is the increased resistance within the radial and longitudinal seals as the grease/oil hardens with drop in temperature. A bit more work for servos and propulsion and LPB motors, but not enough to matter worth a tinker's damn. And what structure creep resulting from materials different expansion rates has not evidenced in any leakage -- what creep exists between bulkheads and Lexan is absorbed by the elasticity of the bulkhead O-rings.

David

Hmm, that is all good to know. Also, of course you have done actual under-ice operations with an RC sub. Probably hardened the damn sail too!

There is always a chance that the operator was the one affected by the cold. Maybe I just failed to seat the induction line properly. The peanut settled gently on the bottom and would not recover without the aid of a net. Thankfully it was just in a 10ft pool and not somewhere murkier.

Stay tuned.

-Brady

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

And compromise scale appearance / accuracy?? Never! Shame on you, sir. LOL. This big chungus is just destined for a larger pond. I am ok with that.

Curious to hear your thoughts on operating in extreme cold and how it might effect the SD.

Yeah, yeah. Slap me around till you're happy. I don't like rudder cheats like that either. However, sometimes you just have to be pragmatic about it: You want a model that runs well or is a slave to scale? Pick one!

The one great sin against God in my book is having to increase the lower rudder area on the beautiful ALFA models. SEAWOLF? Who cares.... … that thing was born ugly!

On occasion I had to break surface ice in order to launch and recover r/c model submarines. And that's with both propellant and SAS based ballast blow sub-systems. Temperature (particularly low temperature) has not been an operational issue in my experience. The only degradation is the increased resistance within the radial and longitudinal seals as the grease/oil hardens with drop in temperature. A bit more work for servos and propulsion and LPB motors, but not enough to matter worth a tinker's damn. And what structure creep resulting from materials different expansion rates has not evidenced in any leakage -- what creep exists between bulkheads and Lexan is absorbed by the elasticity of the bulkhead O-rings.

David

[DMTNT]

Remove the lower scale rudder and replace it with a scratch-built unit of about 3X the area. Ugly as hell, but more maneuverable.



David

And compromise scale appearance / accuracy?? Never! Shame on you, sir. LOL. This big chungus is just destined for a larger pond. I am ok with that.

Curious to hear your thoughts on operating in extreme cold and how it might effect the SD.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hi Myron,

In a word? Awful!

My pool is kidney-bean shaped. Probably about 13 feet wide at the ends and maybe about 10 ft wide in the middle. Submerged, it barely eeked out a 180° turn at the end. This is using David’s rudders with no additions. On the surface, there was a lot of backing up and straightening out.

I never expected it to perfom well, but that is ok! I am still having fun.

Remove the lower scale rudder and replace it with a scratch-built unit of about 3X the area. Ugly as hell, but more maneuverable.



David

[Subculture]

Fixed shroud around the pumpjet hampers manoeuvrability.

if you want a very agile boat, look for subjects with a short aspect and preferably control surfaces in the prop wash. Good examples of scale military craft which are fun to drive-

Holland boats
Seehund
X-craft
Walther boats
Delphin
Albacore
Skipjack
212 class
Valiant/Churchill classes
Kilo

[vital.spark]

Find a bigger pool and enjoy as I have!

[DMTNT]

Brady,

How did she turn? My Seawolf takes about 18' to turn 180 deg. That's with an extension taped on to the bottom rudder! Yes, she was a Rocket!!

Regards,

Myron

Hi Myron,

In a word? Awful!

My pool is kidney-bean shaped. Probably about 13 feet wide at the ends and maybe about 10 ft wide in the middle. Submerged, it barely eeked out a 180° turn at the end. This is using David’s rudders with no additions. On the surface, there was a lot of backing up and straightening out.

I never expected it to perfom well, but that is ok! I am still having fun.

[vital.spark]

Brady,

How did she turn? My Seawolf takes about 18' to turn 180 deg. That's with an extension taped on to the bottom rudder! Yes, she was a Rocket!!

Regards,

Myron

[DMTNT]

She dives! She surfaces! She hauls butt and handles like ****!

I am very encouraged. I used the backyard pool and the thermometer was showing approx 33°. I am guessing that would generally qualify as being too cold to run normally, but it is all I have to work with at the moment. There were a couple of instances of the air induction line slipping off its brass nipple and a control arm working itself loose, which I think can both probably be attributed to the cold.

How does the SD hold up to extreme conditions?

At at this point, I am happy enough to paint it. Stay tuned!

-Brady

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Bout time!

David

[trout]

Excellent! Congratulations Captain! I am not sure what iPhone you have, iPhone 5 and newer know when you hold the phone sideways (landscape) it will recognize that and keep it straight on up and down. In other words hold the phone sideways to get more of the sub.
That is a slick looking model. Makes me want to build one. Get paint on her and get her wet again!
Really excited for you!