1/96 Project 1710 Beluga

[HardRock]

Pressing on with the Delta III. Once this is in the water I'll get serious about the Beluga. One boat at time seems like the best policy.

[HardRock]

So this is what happens when you set out to build a Beluga - it becomes a Delta III. Not much actual evidence here of a Beluga yet but I hae been working on the appendages and some preliminary bits and pieces. (Also working through a Honey do list that seems to be getting longer rather than shorter). Meanwhile the Delta continues.

[HardRock]

Adding more bits.

[HardRock]

Tim's Delta (as it might look under water).

[HardRock]

This is getting to be all about the Delta and not much about the Beluga.

Today's efforts.

[HardRock]

Yep. There's lots of range in those Deltas.

[598602G]

Looking good mate. Now if Don will get in touch with me so I can get a Golf kit and a Charlie kit from him. Working on the plugs now for a 1/72 Thresher and a 1/72 George Washington SSBN. Don't be hating on this old pink jockey because I do 1/72. The 598 is as long as the Delta. Plus I am making it a split hull so it won't cost $600.00 to ship to you Foster drinking homies. Funny the Delta went from New York to California to Louisiana to Tasmania then to you.

[HardRock]

A few photographs of the Delta III

[HardRock]

And in more disappointing news; the UK company that makes the finished, pre-coated brass sheet has discontinued that line of products due to lack of interest. Bummer.

[HardRock]

I am. Its close to finished - I just haven't taken any photographs of it yet.

[598602G]

Scott do you have to eat caviar to build that boat? When you going to build the Tasmanian Delta mate?

[HardRock]

I'll give it a go and report back. Thanks.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I have found that the critical part of this etching process is the laying down of a clean, consistent coating of photo resistant paint onto a clean, scrubbed brass sheet. Not as easy as it sounds; believe me. The results so far are OK but not perfect. The paint tends to ball up and sit in blobs on the brass surface. Its also very easy to apply too much paint. Getting just the right, thing and blemish free coating is very difficult. However, I have now found a company in the UK that sells pre finished, coated brass specifically designed for etching. This stuff comes in 250 x 250 mm sheets, 0.3 mm thick and coated on both sides with positive resist film. That means that normal artwork in black and white will work with them. They use a propriety developer and Feric Chloride as an etchant. Interesting.

Sounds like surface tension was your problem. Treat the raw sheet with a soaking in lacquer thinner and while in the bath, scribbing it with a steel-wool or other type abrasive pad. Remove from bath, blow down and don't touch it with your greasy, nasty fingers! It'll now permit the photo-resist to flow evenly without clumping up or evidencing 'fish-eye'. Warm up the photo-resist before brushing it on the sheet.








David

[HardRock]

I have found that the critical part of this etching process is the laying down of a clean, consistent coating of photo resistant paint onto a clean, scrubbed brass sheet. Not as easy as it sounds; believe me. The results so far are OK but not perfect. The paint tends to ball up and sit in blobs on the brass surface. Its also very easy to apply too much paint. Getting just the right, thing and blemish free coating is very difficult. However, I have now found a company in the UK that sells pre finished, coated brass specifically designed for etching. This stuff comes in 250 x 250 mm sheets, 0.3 mm thick and coated on both sides with positive resist film. That means that normal artwork in black and white will work with them. They use a propriety developer and Feric Chloride as an etchant. Interesting.

[HardRock]

Success ... almost. The registration from back to front side was a hair out.