Victor III

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  • Tom Spettel
    replied
    Wow this is great work!

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  • bwi 971
    replied
    Bow and stern glued in place with CA. As I don't want to rely solely on the CA, I added a strip of fiberglass mat on the section seams and fixed it with epoxy.

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    Grtz,
    Bart

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  • SSBN659
    replied
    Like Tom, I too am happy to see you're back at work on the Victor III. The one I made years ago was a lot of fun but it was nowhere near what you are doing. Way to go Bart!

    Will Rogers
    SSBN659

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  • bwi 971
    replied
    Made all the 4mm stainless steel (SS) indexing pins (tapered), reinforced the hull with frames that also serve as supports for the WTC. Very happy with the result, very tight fit of the upper and lower hull without any additional tweaking.











    I used also indexing pins for the stern appendages.

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    Designed also the yokes, the rudders will have an 60° rotation each side and the dive plans 50°.

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    Grtz,
    Bart

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  • bwi 971
    replied
    Originally posted by trout
    Bart,
    Great to see you are still at it! I have missed your postings.
    Peace,
    Tom
    Thks Tom, It has been too long, feels good to work on somthing for myself.
    Grtz,
    bart

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  • bwi 971
    replied
    Originally posted by Marylandradiosailor
    What material was used for the numbered blocks? (the ones that will hold the pins) Thx.

    PETG, glued in with epoxy, 4mm holes were included in the print and afterwards reamed for a snug fit.

    Grtz,
    Bart

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  • Marylandradiosailor
    replied
    What material was used for the numbered blocks? (the ones that will hold the pins) Thx.

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  • trout
    replied
    Bart,
    Great to see you are still at it! I have missed your postings.
    Peace,
    Tom

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  • bwi 971
    replied
    It's been a while due to various reasons and other scale projects.

    All parts were printed with better supports this time.

    My intention was to use a transversal cut to gain access to the internal WTC. However, that did not work out, so I had to split the hull longitudinally. I wanted to provide index pins before the split because it was difficult with my Akula to match the seam of the upper and lower hull parts.

    I have 6 hull sections, 4 of which will be split.

    For each hull part, I prepared 4 index pins. The radius of the index pins differs depending on the position they will be glued into the sections. Distance blocks were also prepared with various heights and will be used to support the indexing pins when glued in place.

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    I temporarily assembled the six hull parts together with tape, ensuring the assembly was plumb both transversally and longitudinally, and traced the separation line all around. This line was transferred to the inside so I could align the index pins to it.

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    Next, I glued the index pins to the hull sections using the distance blocks.

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    The next step was gluing all the hull sections together and making the longitudinal cut. I used a thin Japanese saw, with a kerf of only 0.5mm.

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    Grtz,
    Bart

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  • bwi 971
    replied
    Originally posted by trout
    Bart,
    It is great to see you moving forward.
    The failed print was probably because there was not a drain hole in the bow. As the layers are getting layer down, the catching of a bunch of resin was too great for the first few layers.
    Peace,
    Tom
    Did not think about that route, thks for pointing that out Tom.
    All the best
    Bart

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  • trout
    replied
    Bart,
    It is great to see you moving forward.
    The failed print was probably because there was not a drain hole in the bow. As the layers are getting layer down, the catching of a bunch of resin was too great for the first few layers.
    Peace,
    Tom

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  • bwi 971
    replied
    Tailpiece worked out great.
    Have a nice one,
    Bart

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  • bwi 971
    replied
    It was not exactly the look I was aiming for....but it turned out to be close to a picture I had in the archive.....some prints do fail because of reasons.
    The scribing lines came out great......the distorted part will be croped and replaced by new......not a big deal.....keep moving fwd.

    Have a nice one,
    Bart


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  • bwi 971
    replied
    Ha I'm getting some results that I like...need to do some smal tweaks but it looks promising....weld lines came out nice.
    Sorry for the fibers of the cloth on th pictures.
    Grtz,
    bart


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  • Albacore 569
    replied
    Great photos. Th 8 blades on the Victor III's look like they turn clock wise when seen from the back looking forward. Interesting. The Akula fromt he same angle lo
    oking forward all appear to turn counter clock wise.

    the 8 blades a poor attaempt to double blade area and reduce RPMs to delay the start of cavitation. The Russians had not received the gift programming for their
    CNC propellor makers yet from Toshiba of Japan for the scimitar blades.

    I always liked the look of the Victor III's over the Akula's personally, but the later Akula's became the more advanced and quieter.

    Damn the Russians sure dont take care of their garbage after they dicard do they? GRRRRRRRosssssss! Lol.

    Excited love to watch the building of your Victor David. Yay!
    Last edited by Albacore 569; 09-10-2023, 06:43 PM.

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