Mobius Skipjack in Napa Ca

[Greevesman]

I can get sti8ck on lead weights. If I buy 2 pounds worth will that be enough?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I can get sti8ck on lead weights. If I buy 2 pounds worth will that be enough?

Get four-pounds to be safe.

David

[Greevesman]

Done. Tower Hobbies, Comes in groups of weights, each group is 6 oz. So I had to buy 11 groups.
Every time increased the quantity, freight went up until I hit $55 in my shopping cart. At that point freight became free! Although shipping lead is compact.

[greenman407]

As Good as my Word. Here is some more info on my Skipjack build. Not shown in a picture is the 4 ounces of weight I have in the nose, in the torpedo nest frame area. Shown in the pictures are two weights made by Caswell. They appear to be made from lead shot and some kind of epoxy. They are 2&5/8" x 2&5/8" square shaped to follow the contour of the hull. Its maximum thickness appears to be about a 1/2" or so. Forgive me as I don't want to try to pry them loose to weigh them. They were heavy on the shot and sparce on the epoxy as you can see one broke apart. Besides those two there is 11 ounces of weight distributed in the bottom as well as the 4 ounces up front. Forgive please the fact that I don't have an accurate scale to weigh the lower hull as is. You can see the foam as it is as well as the two little pieces up inside the tailcone.
This was arrived at by trial and error while the boat was floating in the kiddie pool.

[greenman407]

As you can probably see from the pictures, after you get your foam siliconed in, sometimes you find areas where the foam is too proud and is obstructing something. Sometimes I just take my thumb and smoosh it down a little bit to reduce its thickness in that area. When you go to put the top hull in place and close it up, the areas that rub the subdriver can be identified by carefull examination of the foam and the marks or creases that appear on the surface of the foam. Those are the contact areas that by some means have to be reduced in some way. Easy does it. A little at a time.

[Greevesman]

Great! The 11 oz is make up of how many stick on weights of 0.xx oz each? Lead or steel? The lead ones are 1/4 oz each. I can approximate the lead shot weights with two layers of the stick on weights. This will give me a place to start. Did you have to cover any of the flood holes with weights? Somewhere in your thread I got the idea you worked in concrete. Or was it cement? Years ago I worked on several cement plant wet process to dry conversions.
Thanks for your help

[greenman407]

11 ozs was made up of (44) 1/4 oz lead weights. I have always worked in welding fab shops or maintenance. Most of the time that has been involved with the concrete industry. Now I work at a block plant also involved in maintenance. Welding, electrical, hydraulic......mess. Years of neglect by the company is probably the reason I have a job with them. More work than we can do to keep them going

[greenman407]

I'll have to check on the drain holes being covered

[greenman407]

The six that are closest to the middle are completely covered. And the ones in the far front are partially covered. But it's really a non issue

[Greevesman]

OK, I got my stick on lead weights. The 4 oz in the nose. Is the placement between the torpedo nest frames? Somewhere in your thread I think there was a balance point measurement? Could you take the bottom hull without the subdriver and tell me where your balance point of the bottom hull half is? That should get me really close to a starting point. NO HURRY! Thanks.

[greenman407]

Just inside the rear frame,1/2 on one side of center 1/2 on the other. I'll get you a balance point measurement tonight

[greenman407]

GOOD as my WORD. Measuring from the front(mind you I have the "Z" cut) The balance point is 13&3/4" Keep in mind that the propeller, prop shaft, bearings, Control yokes, drive shaft and control linkages are all in there place.

[greenman407]

I recall in my build thread I mentioned that to hold the battery in place , I CAed some plastic tubes to the inside of the Subdriver battery compartment. An Excellent idea, but DONT USE CA!!! Use silicone seal. The Ca has cracked two of my subdrivers that I have done this way. "Forwarned is Forarmed"!

[Greevesman]

So in post 87, 13 3/4 from the front edge of the Z cut. front of the cut or front of the plastic card? To hold the battery in place, I am thinking of putting Velcro on the lower corners of the battery and strips of Velcro inside the compartment. It would seem like if you glued the plastic tubes you could never remove the inner bulkheads. Of course, perhaps that would never be required. THANKS!

[greenman407]

So in post 87, 13 3/4 from the front edge of the Z cut. front of the cut or front of the plastic card? To hold the battery in place, I am thinking of putting Velcro on the lower corners of the battery and strips of Velcro inside the compartment. It would seem like if you glued the plastic tubes you could never remove the inner bulkheads. Of course, perhaps that would never be required. THANKS!

front of the cut