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That system worked out fine. That's been so long ago. I know I picked it up from a local Hobby store. It was a control rod system for RC airplanes. It didn't use a steel cable like most of them but was a plastic splined rod within a plastic splined sheath. Im thinking it was made by "Great Planes" but at this point I cant be sure. Ill look into it.
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IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY! -
Ok I don't see the exact same one that I used but a newer version. Looks like it will do the trick.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Thank You! What about the clevis? Does it crimp on to the rod? What did you do with the other end?Comment
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I believe that a Clovis comes in the control rod kit but it might be plastic. I believe that it threads onto a threaded rod that also comes in the package which in turn threads into the control rod endsIT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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I meant Clevis but I am having trouble with editing. As far as the other end is concerned there should be some pictures later on but I used a Klickon magnet to inhale another magnet on the brass control rod from the SubdriverIT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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That's engage. Don't you just love spellcheck?IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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I completed reading thru your thread. Very helpful and informative! I ordered the parts for the sailplane linkage from Du-Bro. When you were painting, was the bubbling you experienced in the hull joint or the putty? Was the hull out in the sun after painting? David told me to wait 2 months after joining the hulls before painting. If it was the putty, it could have been from incomplete mixing of the hardener. I have noticed that I I am always trying to use less hardener to prolong pot life. then it seems like I rush to apply while it is still soft. I found if after the initial application and mixing of the hardener if you scoop the batch into another clean cup, then stir again you will avoid the uncatylized bits of putty in the corners of the cup which can cause bubbles. Also it is easier to mix a larger amount of putty with smaller amounts of hardener for longer pot life.Comment
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I believe it was the model airplane glue continuing to give off gases during a lengthy curing time. As time went by it eventually stopped therefore I had no further problems.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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I am planning ahead now that the hull is almost complete. I recently purchased from Bob a VEX 6 channel transmitter which has 4 analog proportional channels controlled by the joysticks and 2 digital channels controlled by buttons which a not proportional.
How do most people set up the controls? I have a Phantom 3 drone and it would be nice to not deviate too much from that. (no crashes yet)
Left stick could be throttle and rudder, right stick could be stern plane and ballast system. That leaves fairwater planes to the non proportional channel 5. Is that how most folks control the fairwater planes?Comment
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The VEX transmitter Channels 5 and 6 are operated by two pairs of buttons on the back of the transmitter. With no buttons pressed these channels send a neutral or centered signal. when one button is pressed the channel will send a full CW or CCW signal. If both buttons are pressed the signal returns to center or neutral.
So it looks like on channel 5 I could set a limit and use it for full up or down stern planes. then when cruising along under water the pitch controller would become the proportional control of the sub. Would that work? Or how about a depth cruiser on the fairwater planes?
I bought the VEX when there was all the info on the forum about how 75 MHz transmitters becoming unavailable. WFLYs seem to be all 2.4 GHz. Is that what you are using?
As always, thanks for your help!Comment
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No, that won't work. Take the three wires coming off the transmitter encoder section -- the ones that lead to the two buttons -- and make those wires up to a 10K-Ohm potentiometer. Or is that 5K? .... Help me out here, Andy.
Put a big fat knob on the pot stem and you're in business.
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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What about direction? Up Down?Comment
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Ah, so full scale CW is full up, full scale CCW is full down. Neutral position would be half scale on the POT.
Transmitter has one button for full up, one button for full down. Fine so far I guess. But then two buttons for neutral position. the transmitter is expecting a signal from both buttons for position neutral and that would never occur with the POT, so I guess logically that's OK.
It sort of seems like the POT needs to be wired into only one of the buttons circuit?Comment
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