That is interesting. I do not recall seeing that Allen screw before. I have pushed out the extra control rod seals on my subs and put a plug in instead. I have kept the seal if someday I was going to add, but once a system is dialed in.......it takes greater effort to change it.
SS-581 Blueback
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2 August 2016
All o-rings lubed with Permatex Dielectric Grease, #22058, silicon based as per the MSDS sheet. Cycled all servos to attempt lubing penetration o-rings. Inserted 1/16” brass rod in 4th penetration in the engine room bulkhead.
First water pressure test of the Blueback’s WTC.
First 5 minute test:
Cycled all control rods in the penetrations, no seeps, leaks or weeps.
Second one hour test:
Velcro 3 lbs dive weight to WTC for holding it under water, cycled servos at 20 and 40 minutes, waited for one hour,
No seeps, leaks or weeps, need to adjust the vent to open a bit more.
Letting the WTC dry out, starting to work on placing the fairwater linkage and other hull work, need to get the lead ballast poured and in the hull to position the WTC correctly.
Thanks
Ernie
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30 March 2017
Got all connections connected and working. I was trying to trim the Blueback this morning. I had too much nose lead in it, 16.05 oz. and two 5 oz. weights at the Velcro strap. I pulled it out the nose lead and started using fishing weights until I got it about right about 9.95 oz. in the nose and two 5 oz. weights at the Velcro strap. I notice some water in the WTC battery compartment. I stop the trimming, pulled the WTC. I removed the intake snorkel line off head valve blew into the line and submerged the WTC. Got air bubbles from the engine room bulk head on the center control rod connection, marked FP. Put some Permatex Dielectric Grease on rod and exercised it, still leaks.
David, should I reroute the control rod to the spare connection with just the wire in it and fill the FP connection with CA glue to seal it?
Thanks
ErnieComment
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DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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Yeah, you got the function of each nipple on the manifold right. Did you leave the snorkel induction side of the manifold open to sea during the test or was it blanked off?
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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Everything was set up as if it was ready to be test driven. The snorkel induction line was connected to the snorkel induction assembly (in the sail) and relied on water pressure to keep the snorkel induction valve shut. So I have a small amount of water leakage pass the vertical “safety float valve” in the ballast tank. I'm guessing that there is no fix for the safety float valve other than replacement.
Do I need to remove the sail and check/verify that the snorkel induction valve it’s not binding against the sail and add some grease to brass float line on the snorkel induction valve?
Thanks
Ernie
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Everything was set up as if it was ready to be test driven. The snorkel induction line was connected to the snorkel induction assembly (in the sail) and relied on water pressure to keep the snorkel induction valve shut. So I have a small amount of water leakage pass the vertical “safety float valve” in the ballast tank. I'm guessing that there is no fix for the safety float valve other than replacement.
Do I need to remove the sail and check/verify that the snorkel induction valve it’s not binding against the sail and add some grease to brass float line on the snorkel induction valve?
Thanks
Ernie
Take the upper hull half and invert it, from the flexible hose leading to the snorkel, take a suction (pucker up!) if it leaks, yeah, pull the sail and make what corrections required to either eliminate any obstruction that prevents free vertical travel of the float, or clean away anything between the intake nipple and rubber element that might be causing the leak.
Pull the safety float-valve from the SD, and twist off the top and examine the nipple and rubber element -- anything fouling that valve? Assemble a apply RTV to make the top watertight to the body.
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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31 March 2017
Did a forum search on the safety float valve and found an article Revell Type VII SAS system float-valve which you explained how to inspect it. I read some of the other searched articles also. Since I was using the tub as the test tank, I took two things from the articles: the sub wasn’t very deep in the tub so when I would add foam to the sub the depth change could have caused the snorkel head valve to cycle, and initially I rolled it to vent all the water from the ballast tank since I didn’t have the batteries in it. The articles suggested that both these actions will allow water into the system.
Actions:- Test the head valve as you suggested
- Test the safety float valve as the article suggested, disassemble and inspect if necessary
- Re-pour the nose lead
- Re-trim in tub with batteries installed to vent the ballast tank, to prevent rolling of safety float valve
- Have sponge or rag in battery compartment to contain water if leaks again
ErnieComment
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31 March 2017
Did a forum search on the safety float valve and found an article Revell Type VII SAS system float-valve which you explained how to inspect it. I read some of the other searched articles also. Since I was using the tub as the test tank, I took two things from the articles: the sub wasn’t very deep in the tub so when I would add foam to the sub the depth change could have caused the snorkel head valve to cycle, and initially I rolled it to vent all the water from the ballast tank since I didn’t have the batteries in it. The articles suggested that both these actions will allow water into the system.
Actions:- Test the head valve as you suggested
- Test the safety float valve as the article suggested, disassemble and inspect if necessary
- Re-pour the nose lead
- Re-trim in tub with batteries installed to vent the ballast tank, to prevent rolling of safety float valve
- Have sponge or rag in battery compartment to contain water if leaks again
Ernie
RTFI! (should be the name emblazoned on the next SpaceX barge).
Anywho ... now you know. Yeah, let us know how the recent test comes out, Ernie. You're almost there, pal.
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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