SS-581 Blueback

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  • trout
    Admiral
    • Jul 2011
    • 3545

    #31
    That is interesting. I do not recall seeing that Allen screw before. I have pushed out the extra control rod seals on my subs and put a plug in instead. I have kept the seal if someday I was going to add, but once a system is dialed in.......it takes greater effort to change it.
    If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

    Comment

    • He Who Shall Not Be Named
      Moderator
      • Aug 2008
      • 12256

      #32
      Originally posted by SSN687


      Penetration with Allen Cap Screw and 4th control rod penetration

      Thanks
      Ernie

      An unused port. Open it up to 1/4" if you want to slip in another servo seal.

      David
      Who is John Galt?

      Comment

      • SSN687
        Lieutenant Commander
        • Nov 2015
        • 119

        #33


        2 August 2016
        All o-rings lubed with Permatex Dielectric Grease, #22058, silicon based as per the MSDS sheet. Cycled all servos to attempt lubing penetration o-rings. Inserted 1/16” brass rod in 4th penetration in the engine room bulkhead.
        First water pressure test of the Blueback’s WTC.
        First 5 minute test:
        Cycled all control rods in the penetrations, no seeps, leaks or weeps.
        Second one hour test:
        Velcro 3 lbs dive weight to WTC for holding it under water, cycled servos at 20 and 40 minutes, waited for one hour,
        No seeps, leaks or weeps, need to adjust the vent to open a bit more.
        Letting the WTC dry out, starting to work on placing the fairwater linkage and other hull work, need to get the lead ballast poured and in the hull to position the WTC correctly.
        Thanks
        Ernie

        Comment

        • trout
          Admiral
          • Jul 2011
          • 3545

          #34
          Huge hurtle crossed over with the WTC test. Well done sir!
          If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

          Comment

          • SSN687
            Lieutenant Commander
            • Nov 2015
            • 119

            #35

            30 March 2017

            Got all connections connected and working. I was trying to trim the Blueback this morning. I had too much nose lead in it, 16.05 oz. and two 5 oz. weights at the Velcro strap. I pulled it out the nose lead and started using fishing weights until I got it about right about 9.95 oz. in the nose and two 5 oz. weights at the Velcro strap. I notice some water in the WTC battery compartment. I stop the trimming, pulled the WTC. I removed the intake snorkel line off head valve blew into the line and submerged the WTC. Got air bubbles from the engine room bulk head on the center control rod connection, marked FP. Put some Permatex Dielectric Grease on rod and exercised it, still leaks.

            David, should I reroute the control rod to the spare connection with just the wire in it and fill the FP connection with CA glue to seal it?

            Thanks
            Ernie

            Comment

            • SSN687
              Lieutenant Commander
              • Nov 2015
              • 119

              #36
              Well I must have not waited long enough for the grease to work into the seal, I just tried blowing into the snorkel line just to re-verify the leak location. No bubbles from the FP connection this time.
              Thanks
              Ernie

              Comment

              • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                Moderator
                • Aug 2008
                • 12256

                #37
                Originally posted by SSN687
                Well I must have not waited long enough for the grease to work into the seal, I just tried blowing into the snorkel line just to re-verify the leak location. No bubbles from the FP connection this time.
                Thanks
                Ernie
                You should have a spare pushrod seal in the goodie bag that came with your SD. If not, and you think it wise to have spares on hand, send me your mailing address and I'll blast you a few.

                David
                Who is John Galt?

                Comment

                • SSN687
                  Lieutenant Commander
                  • Nov 2015
                  • 119

                  #38


                  Initial bath tub trimming, got pretty close. I’ll have to re-pore the nose cone lead, 11.35 oz and reuse the two 5 oz. weights at the Velcro strap. Then re-trim again.

                  Comment

                  • SSN687
                    Lieutenant Commander
                    • Nov 2015
                    • 119

                    #39

                    Had about ½ teaspoon of water in the battery compartment didn't see any water in the engine room after being submerged for about an hour. I will do another long submerged water pressure test on WTC to locate in leakage point.

                    Comment

                    • trout
                      Admiral
                      • Jul 2011
                      • 3545

                      #40
                      Pictures did not show up.....
                      If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                      Comment

                      • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                        Moderator
                        • Aug 2008
                        • 12256

                        #41
                        Originally posted by SSN687

                        Had about ½ teaspoon of water in the battery compartment didn't see any water in the engine room after being submerged for about an hour. I will do another long submerged water pressure test on WTC to locate in leakage point.
                        Water's likely getting by the so-called 'safety float-valve'. At a low rate. Can you live with that? I do.

                        Yeah, you got the function of each nipple on the manifold right. Did you leave the snorkel induction side of the manifold open to sea during the test or was it blanked off?

                        David
                        Who is John Galt?

                        Comment

                        • SSN687
                          Lieutenant Commander
                          • Nov 2015
                          • 119

                          #42
                          Everything was set up as if it was ready to be test driven. The snorkel induction line was connected to the snorkel induction assembly (in the sail) and relied on water pressure to keep the snorkel induction valve shut. So I have a small amount of water leakage pass the vertical “safety float valve” in the ballast tank. I'm guessing that there is no fix for the safety float valve other than replacement.

                          Do I need to remove the sail and check/verify that the snorkel induction valve it’s not binding against the sail and add some grease to brass float line on the snorkel induction valve?
                          Thanks
                          Ernie

                          Comment

                          • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                            Moderator
                            • Aug 2008
                            • 12256

                            #43
                            Originally posted by SSN687
                            Everything was set up as if it was ready to be test driven. The snorkel induction line was connected to the snorkel induction assembly (in the sail) and relied on water pressure to keep the snorkel induction valve shut. So I have a small amount of water leakage pass the vertical “safety float valve” in the ballast tank. I'm guessing that there is no fix for the safety float valve other than replacement.

                            Do I need to remove the sail and check/verify that the snorkel induction valve it’s not binding against the sail and add some grease to brass float line on the snorkel induction valve?
                            Thanks
                            Ernie
                            Water in the forward dry space means that both the snorkel and safety float-valve are leaking. But not much. (yes, yes, 'not much is too much').

                            Take the upper hull half and invert it, from the flexible hose leading to the snorkel, take a suction (pucker up!) if it leaks, yeah, pull the sail and make what corrections required to either eliminate any obstruction that prevents free vertical travel of the float, or clean away anything between the intake nipple and rubber element that might be causing the leak.

                            Pull the safety float-valve from the SD, and twist off the top and examine the nipple and rubber element -- anything fouling that valve? Assemble a apply RTV to make the top watertight to the body.

                            David
                            Who is John Galt?

                            Comment

                            • SSN687
                              Lieutenant Commander
                              • Nov 2015
                              • 119

                              #44
                              31 March 2017
                              Did a forum search on the safety float valve and found an article Revell Type VII SAS system float-valve which you explained how to inspect it. I read some of the other searched articles also. Since I was using the tub as the test tank, I took two things from the articles: the sub wasn’t very deep in the tub so when I would add foam to the sub the depth change could have caused the snorkel head valve to cycle, and initially I rolled it to vent all the water from the ballast tank since I didn’t have the batteries in it. The articles suggested that both these actions will allow water into the system.
                              Actions:
                              1. Test the head valve as you suggested
                              2. Test the safety float valve as the article suggested, disassemble and inspect if necessary
                              3. Re-pour the nose lead
                              4. Re-trim in tub with batteries installed to vent the ballast tank, to prevent rolling of safety float valve
                              5. Have sponge or rag in battery compartment to contain water if leaks again

                              Ernie

                              Comment

                              • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                                Moderator
                                • Aug 2008
                                • 12256

                                #45
                                Originally posted by SSN687
                                31 March 2017
                                Did a forum search on the safety float valve and found an article Revell Type VII SAS system float-valve which you explained how to inspect it. I read some of the other searched articles also. Since I was using the tub as the test tank, I took two things from the articles: the sub wasn’t very deep in the tub so when I would add foam to the sub the depth change could have caused the snorkel head valve to cycle, and initially I rolled it to vent all the water from the ballast tank since I didn’t have the batteries in it. The articles suggested that both these actions will allow water into the system.
                                Actions:
                                1. Test the head valve as you suggested
                                2. Test the safety float valve as the article suggested, disassemble and inspect if necessary
                                3. Re-pour the nose lead
                                4. Re-trim in tub with batteries installed to vent the ballast tank, to prevent rolling of safety float valve
                                5. Have sponge or rag in battery compartment to contain water if leaks again

                                Ernie
                                My first inclination is to beat you to death with that sub-driver. However cooler heads around here (she-who-must-be-obeyed) prevailed. When you received the SD there was a sheet enclosed that gave you the in's, out's, warnings, and cautions about the SAS ballast sub-system -- it was all there.

                                RTFI! (should be the name emblazoned on the next SpaceX barge).

                                Anywho ... now you know. Yeah, let us know how the recent test comes out, Ernie. You're almost there, pal.

                                David
                                Who is John Galt?

                                Comment

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