Laser-cut numbers!? .... where can I get this stuff at? Neat!
David
A Skipjack in Ireland
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In order to make a stab at the hull markings, I'm using BECC vinyl Lettering (Cornwall Model Boats), they have sizes from 2 - 14mm, plus lifeboat signage, cargo ship warning signs, chequerplate flooring, miniature bezels, instrument clusters etc. etc. etc........
I'm using this because Decals are the spawn of satan (for me at least), I can never get them right even using Decal Setter plus the carrier film always spoils the look. An alternative is Woodlands Scenics dry transfer (rub down lettering), but again I'm useless with the stuff.
The kit decals are a useful aid and are stuck beside the location as a guide. Each 2mm letter is picked off the sheet and positioned, they have a sticky back which sets in 24 hours, but you can move them around to get them in line.
Here is the name and the finished tail fin/rudder.
So they are perfect? WRONG!
They don't come in a range of Fonts (I think the Sculpin is close to Franklin Gothic 45 Degree), so if you are a stickler for detail, the larger sizes won't look right, but at 2mm I can't tell the difference.
The Boattrainman
Last edited by The Boattrainman; 05-02-2017, 04:24 PM.Leave a comment:
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I use viper esc's with lipos. Since they were not meant to be used with lipos, they allow the battery to drain down to too low a voltage which affects the battery life. You can use a separate battery guard or don't run the sub as long.Leave a comment:
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Hi Boattrainman,
That ESC is not for LIPO's. The LIPO battery will destroy the ESC. LIPO's can release a lot more energy than the NiMH or NiCad's can.
You will need an Mtroniks TIO ESC to use with a LIPO. One of the two below will work with LIPO's.
15A brushed RC boat speed controller for use in model boats 100% waterproof forwards and reverse throttle control
or
30A brushed RC boat speed controller for use in model boats 100% waterproof forwards and reverse throttle control
Regards
PawlyLeave a comment:
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Getting some conflicting information, is this ESC suitable for the 11.1V LIPO Battery?

I saw a website indicating that it is not LIPO 'safe' (whatever that means).
The BoattrainmanLeave a comment:
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Here is are some more shots of the painting progress. The gratings got a wash of mucky brown and light dry-brushing with off white and are a bit more defined.
I've managed to darken down the grey a bit. Other than some salt washes, I'm not big into heavy weathering of my models.
The lights look fine, the top sail light is a bit small to be seen at distance.
The five pieces of glass in the sail will have to wait till all the varnish coats are finished.
The BoattrainmanLast edited by The Boattrainman; 04-30-2017, 10:41 AM.Leave a comment:
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Hi Rob,
I would still run a separate BEC unless you know what the current draw is for your electronics and it comes in under what the ESC is capable of.
I run a Castle Creations BEC 10.
Regards
PawlyLeave a comment:
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Hi Pawly,
Thanks for taking the time to comment.
I was worried about that twist of cable myself, so I stripped it off and I still have the odd 'twitch', so no joy there.
My next port of call is to try the ferrite ring idea, and I'll be choosing an ESC and using the BEC from that, so hopefully that may alleviate the problem.
Rob
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Hi Boattrainman,
i do do not understand electronics totally and although your install is superb, electronic gremlins are everywhere. What looks like your battery wires (red and black) wrapped around the plastic may have some magnetic interference.
My Engel SPC 2 was working great with the original length wire, I had no issue. Once I cut it to make it neat I ended with a uncontrollable motor. All other controls responded correctly.
See my post on motor issue - https://forum.sub-driver.com/forum/s...in-my-skipjack
Regards
PawlyLeave a comment:
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Aaaaaggggghhhhhhhh................................ ...........!
(damn)Leave a comment:
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Of course I'm right.David,
I think you might be right.
I agonised over this, the other dark dark grey I had was almost black, and it looked like a silloutte...................!
I'm washing it in a mixture dilute black/grey to get the colour a bit darker and also to blend the red anti foul.
Not going for a repaint at this stage.
Rob
Step back a few weeks, then rejoin the project, lay down the masking (PVA carefully brushed over the markings) and hit it with a mist coating of honest-to-god black from a rattle-can.

David
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David,
I think you might be right.
I agonised over this, the other dark dark grey I had was almost black, and it looked like a silloutte...................!
I'm washing it in a mixture dilute black/grey to get the colour a bit darker and also to blend the red anti foul.
Not going for a repaint at this stage.
Rob
Leave a comment:
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