A Skipjack in Ireland

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by The Boattrainman
    n order to make


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    Thisish


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    Laser-cut numbers!? .... where can I get this stuff at? Neat!

    David

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  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    In order to make a stab at the hull markings, I'm using BECC vinyl Lettering (Cornwall Model Boats), they have sizes from 2 - 14mm, plus lifeboat signage, cargo ship warning signs, chequerplate flooring, miniature bezels, instrument clusters etc. etc. etc........

    I'm using this because Decals are the spawn of satan (for me at least), I can never get them right even using Decal Setter plus the carrier film always spoils the look. An alternative is Woodlands Scenics dry transfer (rub down lettering), but again I'm useless with the stuff.

    The kit decals are a useful aid and are stuck beside the location as a guide. Each 2mm letter is picked off the sheet and positioned, they have a sticky back which sets in 24 hours, but you can move them around to get them in line.



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    Here is the name and the finished tail fin/rudder.

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    So they are perfect? WRONG!

    They don't come in a range of Fonts (I think the Sculpin is close to Franklin Gothic 45 Degree), so if you are a stickler for detail, the larger sizes won't look right, but at 2mm I can't tell the difference.

    The Boattrainman





    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 05-02-2017, 04:24 PM.

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  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    Thanks for the heads up, much appreciated.

    Rob

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  • type7
    replied
    I use viper esc's with lipos. Since they were not meant to be used with lipos, they allow the battery to drain down to too low a voltage which affects the battery life. You can use a separate battery guard or don't run the sub as long.

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  • Pawly
    replied
    Hi Boattrainman,

    That ESC is not for LIPO's. The LIPO battery will destroy the ESC. LIPO's can release a lot more energy than the NiMH or NiCad's can.

    You will need an Mtroniks TIO ESC to use with a LIPO. One of the two below will work with LIPO's.

    15A brushed RC boat speed controller for use in model boats 100% waterproof forwards and reverse throttle control


    or

    30A brushed RC boat speed controller for use in model boats 100% waterproof forwards and reverse throttle control


    Regards

    Pawly

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  • The Boattrainman
    replied


    Getting some conflicting information, is this ESC suitable for the 11.1V LIPO Battery?





    I saw a website indicating that it is not LIPO 'safe' (whatever that means).

    The Boattrainman

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  • The Boattrainman
    replied

    Here is are some more shots of the painting progress. The gratings got a wash of mucky brown and light dry-brushing with off white and are a bit more defined.


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    I've managed to darken down the grey a bit. Other than some salt washes, I'm not big into heavy weathering of my models.

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    The lights look fine, the top sail light is a bit small to be seen at distance.

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    The five pieces of glass in the sail will have to wait till all the varnish coats are finished.

    The Boattrainman
    Last edited by The Boattrainman; 04-30-2017, 10:41 AM.

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  • Pawly
    replied
    Hi Rob,

    I would still run a separate BEC unless you know what the current draw is for your electronics and it comes in under what the ESC is capable of.

    I run a Castle Creations BEC 10.

    Regards

    Pawly

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  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    Hi Pawly,

    Thanks for taking the time to comment.

    I was worried about that twist of cable myself, so I stripped it off and I still have the odd 'twitch', so no joy there.

    My next port of call is to try the ferrite ring idea, and I'll be choosing an ESC and using the BEC from that, so hopefully that may alleviate the problem.

    Rob


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  • Pawly
    replied
    Hi Boattrainman,

    i do do not understand electronics totally and although your install is superb, electronic gremlins are everywhere. What looks like your battery wires (red and black) wrapped around the plastic may have some magnetic interference.
    My Engel SPC 2 was working great with the original length wire, I had no issue. Once I cut it to make it neat I ended with a uncontrollable motor. All other controls responded correctly.

    See my post on motor issue - https://forum.sub-driver.com/forum/s...in-my-skipjack

    Regards

    Pawly

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by The Boattrainman
    Aaaaaggggghhhhhhhh................................ ...........!



    (damn)
    LOL.

    But .... I used the sharp knife!?

    David

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  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    Aaaaaggggghhhhhhhh................................ ...........!



    (damn)

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by The Boattrainman
    David,

    I think you might be right.

    I agonised over this, the other dark dark grey I had was almost black, and it looked like a silloutte...................!

    I'm washing it in a mixture dilute black/grey to get the colour a bit darker and also to blend the red anti foul.

    Not going for a repaint at this stage.

    Rob
    Of course I'm right.

    Step back a few weeks, then rejoin the project, lay down the masking (PVA carefully brushed over the markings) and hit it with a mist coating of honest-to-god black from a rattle-can.



    David

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  • The Boattrainman
    replied
    David,

    I think you might be right.

    I agonised over this, the other dark dark grey I had was almost black, and it looked like a silloutte...................!

    I'm washing it in a mixture dilute black/grey to get the colour a bit darker and also to blend the red anti foul.

    Not going for a repaint at this stage.

    Rob

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Too gray.

    David

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