A Skipjack in Ireland

[The Boattrainman]

Points well made.

However, your comment 'the creation, in model form, of a prototypes copy, in every detail' contains the nub of the 'scale' debate.

What and how much detail can you get in the following popular scales 1/350, 1/76, 1/32, 1/16, 1/8?

Now you have the ship modeller who tries to get 'as much' detail as possible into his 1/350 scale Ship model, but you can bet he will not do the stanchions, or the 1/16 scale Tank modeller who can go much deeper into the detail, but again there are still limits, he probably won't make a working convoy light at the rear as they are so small and hard to make (although I've seen it done), these are all subjective calls by the individual modeller on how far into the detail he can go depending on size, skill, eyesight, budget, time etc. etc.

I take you point 'we never attain perfection etc.' I have never seen a 'perfect' model in any scale in any subject anywhere, every one is some sort of compromise (see above). Just as the real things are themselves a compromise.

I do concur that the modeller working on a 'scale; model who includes an obvious detail NOT on the original during any time of it's existance just because it tickles his fancy is probably working in 'stand off'' Scale (I don't know if that's the term used in the US).

The one aspect that gets my goat, is maufacturers selling 'scale' models that have glaring problems especially with dimensions and overall shape (which are near impossible to fix), the HO/OO scale model train world is bedevilled with this problem, the Skipkack is blessedly free of these issues.

Anyway, enough theory, back to the practice............!

Rob

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I would argue that the activity of scale modeling is an objective. The pursuit of an absolute -- the creation, in model form, of a prototypes copy, in every detail. An objective never attained (by the hands of man), but one well defined; defined by the physical attributes of the original, the prototype.

Subjectivity is a cop-out. I so hate the phrase, "I model what pleases me", when applied to SCALE modeling.

Now, if it's a concept creation your building, I have no problem. But when the word 'scale' is affixed to any modeling activity, there can only be one goal. Anything less is not scale modeling. We never attain perfection, but we strive for it. Anything else is just slapping parts together.

M

[The Boattrainman]

Here is the final arrangement, with a cable strain made of a square piece of Plasticard glued to the hull up against the brace moulding and a small piece of 1mm card with two small bolts through to the square piece.



I can't work on a wiring route beyond this as I've no idea where the wiring for the sail lights will end up, but if needs be (and for painting), the whole top rudder, light and wiring can be pulled out.

That's three nights work for a 10 Cent LED!

The Boattrainman

[The Boattrainman]

Thanks David.

Sure if you follow the kit instructions what do you get?

The same damn thing as everyone else........................!

It's actually one of the things I like about model boat building, you never see two of the same models exactly alike, from minor modifications to paint schemes to wholesale changes to structures etc.

Goes to show that the whole concept of a 'scale model' is highly subjective.

Rob

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You savagely hacked up that carefully designed yoke; found a rational for that (well crafted) access hatch; and have callously departed from our kit assembly protocol.

What's next? ... you going to irradiate this thing at CERN????

YOU PEOPLE!!!

(I'm lov'n those running lights)

M

[The Boattrainman]

The Caswell rudder yoke has been well and truly butchered, there goes my lifetimes warranty!




As well as the notch to let the wiring out without fouling the prop shaft and the piece filed away to accommodate the dive plane clevis, I've glued in a tiny wire loop into a drilled hole to lead the wiring away up the hull.





The wiring comes down the tube, out the hole around into the wire loop and back up the hull through a plastic tube, I'll work up a cable strain fitting between the two clevises' attached to the roof, later, and of course would not have been possible without the new access hatch (sorry, had to get that in!!!).

The Boattrainman

[trout]

Nicely done sir! Love learning from others.

[The Boattrainman]

Thanks my friend.

I've never built a boat kit from such good quality mouldings, both the Revell and Caswell parts. I usually spend half the time cleaning up parts on other kits or in some cases discarding and scratch-building replacements. My last project had over 1000 white metal parts plus I scratched another 300, took two years to build and it's only 95% complete. I built a Robbe sub a few years ago and it took me nine months just to get the hull together, the fit and finish on some kits leave a lot be desired.

Only slight niggle is I've no knowledge of Skipjack subs, I bought the kit because it was in my local model shop discounted to half price, couldn't resist.

This one is going together easy so far and the quality gives lots of options for upgrading and improving............!

[greenman407]

Nice Job. Since I bought the fittings kit, which comes with solid rudders, I never even thought about using the kit supplied rudders. It does make installation of lights easier. Good Call.

[The Boattrainman]

The wires are pulled up through the brass tube then soldered to the resistor and LED, and two pieces of scrap metal plate are used as a heat sink for the resistor and glued to each half.





All the internal parts are flooded with epoxy including around the brass tube. The sides are united and the light tested, if you notice it's not a pure white LED that's because the pure white in most LEDs is not realistic, most white lights are softer and I've used a soft yellow instead, the white is just too intense.





When the rudder is installed the wires are fed down into the yoke before the shaft is dropped in and pulled out into the hull.

No wires to be seen!

[The Boattrainman]

Roger that guys, points noted.

So to the task of making a working tail light, first up was to draw out on paper the outline of the Caswell part, to get the shaft angle correct.




A piece if brass tube the same diameter of the Caswell part is cut to length using a tube cutting tool, the wires for the light will go down this tube, then down the internal rudder yoke. A notch has been filed at the top of circle where the wires exit so they can be bent out of the way of the prop shaft. A semi-circular hole is filed on both kit pieces where the brass tube will enter in line with the drawing.




1mm Plasticard supports to the shape of the internal space are glued to both sides of the Revell kit parts, up against the square moulding which is used as a guide to the height of the brass tube. Another strip of Plasticard is stuck on these pieces in line with the hole for the brass shaft which is lightly Superglued (CA) in place.




A 3mm hole is filed at the top of the rudder to take the LED, a semicircle on both kit halves so when they unite it's a round hole. Two small scraps of 1mm Plasticard are stuck to support the light and the the LED is glued to one of these.




To the next post.

[trout]

When I first launched my Skipjack, I had an issue with my sail plane's linkages. I put the planes with a slight downward and then with them at level. Both ways worked. The level planes better than the slightly angled down. This boat is a rocket underwater and the slightly downward angle made the boat dive as I went faster (as it should). With level planes, I was able to adjust depth with the leveler on the aft planes. However, once I got the linkages connected, it was even more sweet to drive. I had better control of the sub (easier to run straight and level). This allowed the leveler to do what it was meant for, keeping the boat level and I could used the sail planes to adjust the depth. So hopefully this keeps HWSNBN from getting grease and smiling at me.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I've a question for anyone with this Skipjack.

I noticed Greenman and others not being overly impressed with the sail planes. This is a small model (in some regards, bigger in other), it's not going to take much to get it diving once the ballast system is sorted. I'm getting the impression that the sail planes are not necessary for operation.

I'm going with electronic linkage of the aft and sail planes (or mechanical, will have to wait for more parts to arrive), and I'll probably construct the sail planes as operational anyway.

Anyone got any thoughts?

Rob

Yes.

The sail planes are practical and make the boat easier to drive underwater.

M

[The Boattrainman]

I've a question for anyone with this Skipjack.

I noticed Greenman and others not being overly impressed with the sail planes. This is a small model (in some regards, bigger in other), it's not going to take much to get it diving once the ballast system is sorted. I'm getting the impression that the sail planes are not necessary for operation.

I'm going with electronic linkage of the aft and sail planes (or mechanical, will have to wait for more parts to arrive), and I'll probably construct the sail planes as operational anyway.

Anyone got any thoughts?

Rob

[The Boattrainman]

There are some gaps in the indexing seam uniting both halves of the hull.




The hull seam could do with extra bracing, so at these points 24mm wide pieces of 1mm Plasticard have been glued to form strengtheners.

3

The eight indexing pins on the kit have been cut down by 3/6mm, the ones nearest the bow cut the lowest, and their tips rounded off with sandpaper, so they will slide easily into the opposing pin holes.

They look flimsy, but if polystyrene cement is used they will be as strong as the hull. This is the advantage of the kit material, if the hull was made of GRP (which most R/C Boat Kits are), epoxy or CA would be needed and it wouldn't be as strong because the hull is effectively melted to the Plasticard strips.

The Boattrainman