Tom Chalfant - Bronco Type XXIII

[trout]

David,
Should we continue to post on these threads or start a new one on the builder section?

Until I hear....
Time to go back and clean up. The first area needing attention is the hull cut. Began sanding it. Time was limited today, so only a rough sanding was done.

The other area that bothers me is the servo cable rat's nest.

I got for Christmas and birthday a couple of tools. The crimper was from Pololu.com a robotics/electronic online company that is located in Las Vegas and the wire stripper was from Home Depot. My old wire stripper did not look like it would handle the finer wires of the servo. I also got some female pins that slide into the plastic end.

Using the frozen servo taken out of the sub-driver, I cut the wires stripped the ends off and crimped on a new pin. It went very smoothly.

Now before I go hacking at my servos installed in this Sub-Driver, is there any problem with shortening the leads from the servos that anyone knows about?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

In Strategic Weapons we had to play by the two-man-rule; you always had a like trained guy right at your shoulder to check/stop you if you got stupid. Sam is your back-up. Listen to the boy.

And yeah, I've done all the stupid **** you just chronicled, Tom ... and worse!

M

[trout]

Yeah, I too get different sounds from the vertical and horizontal type SAS snorkel induction head-valves. Wonder why?

I could guess, but that is all it would be. It works (and well at that).

You've been using SAS type SD's for some time now. Have you ever forgotten to make up the snorkel induction hose to the five/four-point manifold yet? If so, it makes you appreciate the function of the safety float-valve.

(hanging head low) yes.......I have forgotten to do that. It is a nice safety for the ID 10 T like me. As a side note, I have a WTC from the defunct Small World Models and it was further modified by Mike Dory. I left the a screw out (used to push switch on) and flooded the compartment and I also left the end cap off once (removed it to air it out, but forgot to put it back on) that sank it quickly. Now Sam asks me the annoying questions "Are all the screws in? Is the end cap on?" You make a mistake or two and it gets held over your head forever.

And that rudder: a nice break when you need to dig your claws in.
M

Are you saying to leave it as an emergency brake?
Hmmm....I will think about that.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thanks for the post-mission report, Tom. Three drops of water is still three drops too much. Address that unused seal and report back. Sounds like a fun ride, can't wait to get mine working.

Yeah, I too get different sounds from the vertical and horizontal type SAS snorkel induction head-valves. Wonder why?

You've been using SAS type SD's for some time now. Have you ever forgotten to make up the snorkel induction hose to the five/four-point manifold yet? If so, it makes you appreciate the function of the safety float-valve.

And that rudder: a nice break when you need to dig your claws in.

M

[trout]

Thank you Gary! Yes, get that skippy done! I think my son and I will build that one, so you better document your build here so I can follow in your footsteps.

I did not do a post mission report (in all the excitement of it running well, I forgot). Here it is:

The battery compartment was completely dry. That means the SAS did not vent ANY water in! Very cool. The SAS on this sub (the horizontal float) does not make the same slurping sound that the Skipjack's vertical float does. It is very quiet. At first I was nervous if it was working, but testing it out confirmed it was.

The engine room had 3 drops (yes I counted them as they left the sub-driver) That is minimal amount especially since we toured the deep end of the pool and both Sam and I ran into the wall a couple of times (zipping along and then no response from the helm), but that amount of water still can be reduced. On the end of the sub driver there are four seals for pushrods. One is not used and I put a small length of 1/16" brass wire to keep water from coming in. Of the pushrod seals that one seemed awfully loose. So, I will turn a blank for it and the Skipjack (it also has an extra pushrod seal not being used).

I need to set the end points for speed - this sub can clip along especially submerged - and rudder. I have so much turn that it becomes ineffective at turning. It is just mashing the water verses directing it if we use full throw in either direction.

[crazygary]

Glad my pool is not bigger, otherwise one of these would be "on its way"!!
(Yeah, I know, M! Finish the Skippy first!! Roger that!!)

Excellent thread, Tom!! Kudos to you for all your eforts!

Looking forward to seeing her in her "Sunday finest".

Congrats, once again, and many thanks for the great "blow-by-blow"!!

[trout]

Here are a few photos from yesterday.
Sam is driving while I snap a few photos.

Begin a dive.

Cruising at periscope depth.

A fast passing. I had not set end points on the speed. This sub takes off even on 7v.

Sam taking control.


Again, thank you guys. There is still a ton of work to do.

[alad61]

Very glad you got it all built and running Tom. It was a pleasure reading your thread and seeing it run in the video. this won't be a boat in my fleet but it's still a buzz watch it run.

[Warpatroller]

Tom,

You made a very detailed build thread here. Well Done! Nice to see the model run so smooth and level when submerged, in contrast to David's experiences with his. I knew there was no way the general shape of that model was causing the crash dives. Nothing wrong with the propeller that I helped David design either! He just has to track down a few equipment gremlins and his should be good to go too..

You've all just seen the first properly functioning XXIII model, with a scale accurate prop, cruise through the chlorinated depths of Nevada! The first model to swing the wheel with the "God Hub", and look good doing it! It brings a tear to my eye! This model has passed Sea Trials folks! The Bronco is green lighted for construction by would be skippers everywhere, thanks to Tom and David!

Steve

[trout]

Thank you all. It was a dash to complete for the contest, but it was also a desire to see if it would work. Now the finishing can proceed at a slower pace.
The night before I got her to the pool I trimmed the sub again. I needed to because minor changes of gluing in the weights seem to throw things off and combine that with the foam did not all fit exactly as planned, more weight was needed. It worked out that 7g of weight was added between the bow and mid weight and just aft of the mid weights 14g was needed. The 14g was to drop the sub to the correct depth not to level the sub. The 7g in the bow was to correct the slight bow lift due to the foam going in differently than planned.
In a bit, I will add some photos that we took.

[crazygary]

Looking pretty great, Buddy!!
Congrats on a job well done!!
Hope 2014 is uber kind to you!

[goshawk823]

Tom-
great work on getting it complete and in the water. it looks like a pretty good running boat!

[MFR1964]

Excellent work Tom,

It seems to run fine, either on slow speed as on high speed, that's very positive, one of these weeks i'm going to start up the SkunkWorks to get mine running, the hectic times are becoming less.
Give her some well deserved paint and let us enjoy that sight, hats off to you sir!!!

Manfred.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

It works! There you have it -- I've got a device problem, likely the angle-keeper.

Tom: thank you so much for rushing this thing into the water -- I needed to see one of these things working. I'm now charged to find what I'm doing wrong here, putting that right, and getting my Type-23 workings as well as yours.

Well done, sir!

M

[trout]

It finally finished uploading, it should work now.
Sorry about that, I started the upload and did not want to fall asleep with out posting.
Please see if it works for you.
Peace,
Tom