I will do this in at least two parts. The first will be the battery compartment and the rest will just depend on how it goes.
The battery compartment. The components you need/optional are:
Switch (optional) with waterproof boot. The only two parts I am going to use are the switch itself and the boot - this will get sealed up with RTV silicon when it is finally installed.
A wire strain relief. I did not have mine, so I made one with Sculpy clay. In this case I made it a triangular shaped rectangle (looks like a long tent).
Bake it @ 275 degrees Fahrenheit for 10 - 15 minutes (I split the difference and did this one in ~12 minutes).
It comes out like this:
Not much of a difference. Left it to cool, then drilled 4 - 1/8” holes. Not even, but it works.
The only issue I had was a small amount of breaking when I drilled the holes. I used some CA to seal the holes and (my thinking is) strengthen the area.
Fuse - in this case it is a 10A fuse - there so many different types of fuses, I got this one because it was convenient. There are waterproof ones out there, but if water gets into the fuse, I have bigger problems going on. This is a protection for all the stuff in the engine room of the WTC - disconnecting the battery or connecting it, faulty battery can cause a surge.
Connectors. I chose the Deans style connector, your sub your choice.
Battery. I went with the 3s 11.1v LiPo, but there is LiFe, NiCad, etc. same as above, your boat your choice. My choices for types of LiPo was limited because I shortened my battery compartment.
Here is the basic layout (minus strain relief for simplicity). I just placed the Deans connectors in the picture for representation, not accuracy. Mind your polarity!
And here it is all put together.
Today, I will RTV silicon the switch in and seal it around the boot.
The battery compartment. The components you need/optional are:
Switch (optional) with waterproof boot. The only two parts I am going to use are the switch itself and the boot - this will get sealed up with RTV silicon when it is finally installed.
A wire strain relief. I did not have mine, so I made one with Sculpy clay. In this case I made it a triangular shaped rectangle (looks like a long tent).
Bake it @ 275 degrees Fahrenheit for 10 - 15 minutes (I split the difference and did this one in ~12 minutes).
It comes out like this:
Not much of a difference. Left it to cool, then drilled 4 - 1/8” holes. Not even, but it works.
The only issue I had was a small amount of breaking when I drilled the holes. I used some CA to seal the holes and (my thinking is) strengthen the area.
Fuse - in this case it is a 10A fuse - there so many different types of fuses, I got this one because it was convenient. There are waterproof ones out there, but if water gets into the fuse, I have bigger problems going on. This is a protection for all the stuff in the engine room of the WTC - disconnecting the battery or connecting it, faulty battery can cause a surge.
Connectors. I chose the Deans style connector, your sub your choice.
Battery. I went with the 3s 11.1v LiPo, but there is LiFe, NiCad, etc. same as above, your boat your choice. My choices for types of LiPo was limited because I shortened my battery compartment.
Here is the basic layout (minus strain relief for simplicity). I just placed the Deans connectors in the picture for representation, not accuracy. Mind your polarity!
And here it is all put together.
Today, I will RTV silicon the switch in and seal it around the boot.
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