HMCS Windsor - Upholder class 3D print - files from Nautilus DD

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • NavyShooter
    Lieutenant, Junior Grade

    • Jul 2026
    • 28

    #1

    HMCS Windsor - Upholder class 3D print - files from Nautilus DD

    Ahoy gents,

    A couple of days ago Canada determined that we're going to replace our older Victoria class submarines. They've had a bit of a checkered past, with both British and Canadian service, but a long pause and mothballing in between. The re-activation process was longer and more costly than though, and during the transit to Canada, one of the subs (HMCS Chicoutimi) had a fire onboard resulting in the death of the ship's Combat Systems Engineering Officer, Lt(N) Chris Saunders.

    The submarines have had long periods of maintenance and repairs, but when deployed and operational have been absolutely among the most capable diesel electric subs in the world.

    As a former SONAR Tech with the RCN, I observed sea trials and tests and can attest to them literally being a 'hole in the water' when they want to be.

    I found myself with some print cycle time on my Bambu H2S, and was thinking about what Canadian Ship or Sub to putter away at in the background as I continue to work on my Type 26 project(s).

    I came across the Upholder/Victoria class STL package at Nautilus Drydocks - for just under $100 (Canuck bucks), I purchased the file set and downloaded to start printing.

    British Upholder - Canadian Victoria Class STL File Package | Drydocks

    The files are quite detailed - the outer hull is well crafted with the Anechoic tiles showing clearly, and the 'bits' underneath them appear to be mostly in the right spots based on my rough guestimation. Torpedo tubes, flank SONAR arrays, torp loading hatch, access doors, etc, well detailed and looks really good.

    A few days of printing, and I have the first sample model done. I'm a bit of a fan of doing a test print for display before doing anything that'll hit the pond, so here's what the test print looks like.

    Where will this go from here?

    We'll see. This is V1 - printed with Matte finish PLA to give a better 'soft rubber' look to the anechoic tiles. I think that turned out well.

    I'll have the last of the parts printed tomorrow and will be assembling it to put it on display in a nearby cabinet at work.

    V2 might be a 'tiny' version as a give-away in 1/144 scale for size reference.
  • NavyShooter
    Lieutenant, Junior Grade

    • Jul 2026
    • 28

    #2
    I'll observe that the large-ish cracks and gaps showing are currently there because I haven't glued any of this together. It's all just propped together for some pictures. There are a series of ~3mm alignment holes in various spots on the upper and lower hull. I think they're designed to be used with small magnets to allow the hull to be opened up for access to interior RC Gear.

    That won't be an issue with this version.

    In looking at a few photos on the web, there are some spots on the deck that will get painted gray, the underwater grates for water ingress into the various tanks and hull openings seem to be marked with red outlines (for diver awareness probably?) and the masts/periscopes are silver with green tops for the most part.

    There are depth markings in red on the sides, port/stbd forward, as well on the rudder port/stbd side. Interestingly, on the front edge of the rudder, there seem to be water depth lines marked in blue as well.

    Y'know what though....I live in Halifax, and work for DND, so I'm going to just wander down to Dockyard and get a couple close-up looks for my own satisfaction, and I'll ask some squids if I can take pictures too.

    Comment

    • NavyShooter
      Lieutenant, Junior Grade

      • Jul 2026
      • 28

      #3
      So, I decided to glue the 4 midship modules together first - then I'd easily be able to sand the mating surface smooth if there were any imperfections.


      There were a couple, and 10 minutes of sanding later with some 80 grit, things are pretty smooth in terms of joining.

      Comment

      • NavyShooter
        Lieutenant, Junior Grade

        • Jul 2026
        • 28

        #4
        To add - if you look at the lower hull joins, you'll see the inset angle part - I think that's designed so that you can add some fiberglass cloth/resin over them inside to give a stronger join.

        The slight misalignment of modules is my own fault - less than 1/2mm on them, so a bit of sanding and it was all fixed up and smooth.

        The small holes visible along the length of the join line between the upper and lower hull appear to be for magnets that can be inset to hold the hull halves together to enable easy access to the interior.

        Comment

        • NavyShooter
          Lieutenant, Junior Grade

          • Jul 2026
          • 28

          #5
          And here's how she looks with the bow and stern modules fitted.


          A very snug fit!

          Comment

          • NavyShooter
            Lieutenant, Junior Grade

            • Jul 2026
            • 28

            #6
            Question for the group - and maybe Bob -

            What size and what type of magnets would you suggest I order to go in the little holes alongside the edges of the hull to hold the upper and lower hulls together?

            Is there a bulk-pack of them to buy online somewhere (Amazon?) or a recommended local-ish supplier?

            The holes look to be about 3mm?

            Also - is there an assembly guide for this model somewhere that I can download? I'm sort of just doing what looks right so far...and for a static build, that's no big deal. If I decide to go RC...that changes a bit....

            Comment

            • Surcouf
              Lieutenant, Junior Grade

              • Apr 2026
              • 10

              #7
              Brad,

              I am just getting started myself. I also purchased the Victoria/Upholder files from the Drydocks. I intend to start a build thread on what I have so far on mine of the HMCS Victoria. A couple of items that may help for a potential RC version:
              • The material that I would recommend is ASA for RC use due to the temperatures it would be exposed to.
              • The bow would typically be attached to the upper hull, and the stern to the lower hull. In this configuration, the bow can be slipped over the lip of the lower hull, and then a single screw attachment can be used to secure the upper hull at the stern location. This is the "Z cut" that is referenced at different times. With the current hull that you have it may be challenging to get the upper hull to tuck under at the bow and clear the stern if you had to separate them regularly like an RC application. Magnets may not be needed at that point. I believe I will be able to just use small tabs to keep the hulls in register down the length of the split.
              Click image for larger version

Name:	Victoria Class Z Cut Image.jpg
Views:	6
Size:	59.0 KB
ID:	196220
              • I have noted some items that are not quite the same as the actual boats: the sail has an access hatch on the right side that should not be there, the antenna/array (not sure what to call it) at the back of the sail should bulge out on each side, the stern dive planes are not the correct shape, and the rudder surfaces should have tiles like the rest of the boat. Do not get me wrong- the files are amazing in detail, and took a lot of work for the designer. These are things that I have chosen to make more accurate. When I post my build, I will try to show these specifically.
              • I am sanding the surface of mine with 320 grit, and using glazing putty to fill in little areas, with the intent of using body filler at the joint between the upper and lower hulls.
              • I purchased the R&R 70mm water tight cylinder from Bob with an extra servo added for the bow planes. It fits really well, but I had to add some linkages in the bow due to the proximity of the cylinder to the front of the boat.
              I am certainly still learning, but if there is anything I can assist with, let me know.

              Tony

              Comment

              Working...