RC Submarine Cylinder

[biggsgolf]

So I have been designing a cylinder in part based on Ron's R&R Cylinders. I am building prototype for myself, and will use the STL files for a friend of mine and I to build him one. The files are printed in resin. It takes 557ML of resin and 28 hours of printing. I started with the end caps to be sure I could make the cylinder pressure proof. Please note that starting with a perfectly smooth (no sides) circle is important. Tinkercad for example, circles have sides. My design has o'rings that have a larger diameter than the tubes I.D., so they compress to the end caps and the tube. The bow en cap houses the dive planes servo, creating additional forward cargo space.
Once I designed the end caps I had a pressure proof body, yay!
Next I designed the equipment trays, mounts etc. The sections mount to each other via ss bolts, screws, and brass threaded inserts, all openings for these were designed in the files.
There are eight sections to print.
Next I will be installing all the electronics, motor, pump, esc's, rx, on/off switch, tubes, AD2, DC3, etc.
Cylinder is 19.5" long, this ballast tank will be 165.1 MM in length. Thanks Bob for covering how to cut the tube! Thanks David M for the cup seals.

[Das Boot]

Nice work. Keep us posted.

[SubSteve]

This is looking very nice! I like the R&R design as well. I love to be able to work on the wiring without having to leave so much slack in the harness to allow disassembly. Keep this up!

[biggsgolf]

Nice work. Keep us posted.

Thanks, appreciate that

[biggsgolf]

This is looking very nice! I like the R&R design as well. I love to be able to work on the wiring without having to leave so much slack in the harness to allow disassembly. Keep this up!

I agree, thanks

[Subculture]

Even if the files have some tessellation, you should get a decent seal with o-rings if you have the grooves sized correctly for adequate squish as the seal will conform to the shape of the bulkhead.

Also using a larger cross section seal and softer shore rating can help with less even surfaces, although it's more difficult to find seals below 70 shore in my experience.

[biggsgolf]

Even if the files have some tessellation, you should get a decent seal with o-rings if you have the grooves sized correctly for adequate squish as the seal will conform to the shape of the bulkhead.

Also using a larger cross section seal and softer shore rating can help with less even surfaces, although it's more difficult to find seals below 70 shore in my experience.

Yes, I designed and tested the end caps first. Took many tries, so the end cap design can easily be adjusted for another cylinder with a different I.D.

[biggsgolf]

Mounted the motor, servos, servo arms, driveshaft, and control rods with wheel collars for adjusting the control rods.

[biggsgolf]

Here you can see the driveshaft alignment, perfect for the eventual coupler

[biggsgolf]

So I want to eliminate the crimp in tubes that attach to this pump, so made "180 degree manifolds"

[biggsgolf]

Better pic of how they work.

[biggsgolf]

Anybody used Dichtol AM Hydro on resin prints?

[biggsgolf]

Since it is probable that water will sit in the resin 180 manifolds, I am aborting them, just not comfortable trying to coat the insides of them.. Working on making a resin printed miter box for cutting the cylinders

[biggsgolf]

re-purposing my 70's forceps to align and tighten the control rod collars, lol

[redboat219]

So I want to eliminate the crimp in tubes that attach to this pump, so made "180 degree manifolds"

Look up Silicone right angle or elbow connector for irrigation.