1/120 Akula

[vital.spark]

Thanks MLOO for the information.

[mloo123]

Same concept used but with an o ring as its seals instead which is equally good.

[redboat219]

Correct me if I'm wrong but I think R and R Model Engineering uses the same seal on their 80 and 70mm WTC.

[mloo123]

Actually, seals aren't a problem for me here in Hong Kong as several seal suppliers are minutes from my house. I'm interested in the metal parts that screw into the cylinder and hold the seals. Are these used in the pneumatics industry?

Hi, some exploded view of the M8 cable gland.





And to install them onto your WTC, you need at least to drill a blind hole, or drill and tap a hole for the end thread size. There will be a small oring for sealing. The M6 glands however does not have additional nut supplied, thus you must drill and tap M6 threads in order to fit.

[mloo123]

Any pool test yet? Want to see how the gyro works.

Yet to maiden voyage. Even so, I don't really think we can see clearly the gyro in action.

[redboat219]

They're used to seal cables coming in and out of outdoor junction boxes. The more you screw the cap down the more it compresses the seal.

.

[vital.spark]

Actually, seals aren't a problem for me here in Hong Kong as several seal suppliers are minutes from my house. I'm interested in the metal parts that screw into the cylinder and hold the seals. Are these used in the pneumatics industry?

[redboat219]

Any pool test yet? Want to see how the gyro works.

[mloo123]

I am impressed in your approach in your methods adding a new prospective to our hobby. Could you show in more detail the parts you used for your shaft and pushrod seals.

These seals has been around in this hobby for quite sometime actually, and also being sold in many hobby online sites as well. I got mine here:

https://m.aliexpress.com/i/325680164...site4itemAdapt
The rod seals were M6 glands, and shaft seal is M8 gland.

[vital.spark]

I am impressed in your approach in your methods adding a new prospective to our hobby. Could you show in more detail the parts you used for your shaft and pushrod seals.

[mloo123]

Added non functional bow planes. Also found a wooden cabinet hole plug which is perfect size for the rescue buoy raft!

Next will be final finishing black/red paint scheme.

[mloo123]

You are not running deep enough and in clear water. You will be only able to operate at scope depth with anteann above the waterlevel.

Have you mesured the amps your waterpump draws?

I have some of those, but am reluctant to use install 'em as the specified power consumption by the vendor is rather high

The antenna is cables were always submerged at periscope depth in this case instead. When she fully dives just within 1' I can still operate the motors and drive planes which is new to me.

I didn't measure the current draws on the motor yet. Will do that and report back soon.

[JHapprich]

You are not running deep enough and in clear water. You will be only able to operate at scope depth with anteann above the waterlevel.

Have you mesured the amps your waterpump draws?

I have some of those, but am reluctant to use install 'em as the specified power consumption by the vendor is rather high

[mloo123]

Question.

Has anyone tried a 2.4ghz radio on rc subs before without any modifications on the antenna? Currently I'm using a spectrum 2.4ghz reciever (short antenna) with additional piggy-back satallite reciever (short antenna) and it seems it penetrates water quite well without any signs of glitches with full controls on every channel. Or is it because I'm not running deep or further distance away enough so it's normal for such radio system to operate?

[mloo123]

Re-posting...

Done some tests with my mini water pool...







Periscope depth. Not perfect due to ballast tank not centralized located and bow will pitched down when adding more ballast. Tried add flotation foam at bow but ballast capacity limited to bring lower depths unless add more ballast weight to lowered waterline much more when surfaces... Any tips?






Full dive...



WOT test for full min on shaft seal...



End of trimming test, next checking water leaks on WTC.

Tests results shows battery compartment is bone dry. The main engine/pump room has slight water ingress. Highly suspect from the gland nut seal of main shaft as no signs of water on the lid seal surrounding area of the transparent cover. Need to further address the seal leaks to minimum.







Airplane gyro for the level planes and it functions as it is. Also shown the 12V auto windshield pump running on just 7.2V battery pack.



Thats all for today.