Tweet
We all have our different ways of doing things, some we like that are borrowed from others, some we invent from necessity. That’s what makes this hobby such a joy for me, there are a million way’s to choose from for a particular task. Choosing those options creates one’s style. Boy, I got style! Class however, is something else…..
I tend NOT to transport my running models to and from the running site on their display stand. For that I have a transport stand, which doubles for as the working stand (her “drydock”). Therefore I’m never have to worry about its condition as I am the models condition itself. Generally it’s just a piece of 1 by ‘what-ever’ ply or pine board that has a couple of pieces of ¾ SCH40 PVC pipe with piping insulation adhered to it.
The “by what-ever” x-y dimensions generally exceeds the boats LOA and max beam by 2” either side/end. This way as I maneuver around I’ll chance bumping that rather than taking off a control surface or whacking the Admiral with a sharp screw blade. Also, as they are transported in the bed of my F150, which has a rubber non-skid mat anyway, should they slide into each other, or forward due to collision avoidance/SCPD evasion maneuvering (a required skill on Lawnguyland’s famed LIE), no damage occurs. At least not in the past 30 years I‘ve been doing this. In an instance with large enough truck damage to do something to the boats and I’ll have bigger issues.
Two screw eye’s fwd, two aft, and each set a bungee is usually sufficient for even my largest models. Also with the large models, it’s easy enough of course to acquire rubber bungees, or cover the fabric ones with more of that pipe insulation as to not mar the finish of the boat. Works great on nuc boats w/o railings.
But with the smaller boats, or large ones with delicate deck detail like railings, I make my own custom ones using the ubiquitous blue silicone fuel tubing many of us hobbyists know about. Heck, I use it in so many applications I purchase by the spool!
First, I remove the hooks from old, small, fabric bungees. Then all you need is the appropriately sized Silicone tubing (can fit into the retaining end of the hook), in this case ¼ ID. Two short piece of rigid plastic rod/tube with an OD between the ID and OD of silicone tube to act as a stop. I this example a 3/16” od x 1/8” blue PVC tube (repurposed from a 16AWG Butt connector). Finally for “belt and suspenders”, good old GE silly-cone.
Tools needed: a simple razor blade, and for the accident prone like myself you can opt for a tubing cutter if the stop is a plastic, or even brass tube. Another nice thing to have to insert the stop is a set of small, round nose pliers if it’s a tube. But you can grunt it in with your fingers if needed.
Here I am inserting the stop. Just watch your “Order of Operations”. In my enthusiasm to take notes and photgraph doing this, I accidently put the sop in FIRST before sliding on the hook. Lucky only one side was done. But they can be worked out if needed.
That’s why a squirt of GE filling past the stop (if it’s a tube) is a good “belt and suspenders” idea. Silicone adheres quite well to itself lol. Be patient and let it cure!
So here it is on holding my ALPHA 21 on its transport board. Easy-peasy-lemon squeezy. And it won’t hurt the finish like the standard fabric shock cord ones began to do.
As I stated way back up there, I’m sure there are as many way’s to do this as there are RC Submariners out there. But I was bored one Saturday and didn’t feel like giving “small rubber bungees” a Goog’ after seeing the fabric mar the paint. So whipped these puppies up and I’m happy with the result.
I got even more bored during lunch at work today and decided to share it overly written tip with my RC Shipmates.
Personally, I’d like to see more “TIPS’N TRICKS posted here. They are what make this hobby extra fun. I’m sure there are as many out there as there are users on this forum. So share!
As always, may all your surfacing’s equal your dives!
I tend NOT to transport my running models to and from the running site on their display stand. For that I have a transport stand, which doubles for as the working stand (her “drydock”). Therefore I’m never have to worry about its condition as I am the models condition itself. Generally it’s just a piece of 1 by ‘what-ever’ ply or pine board that has a couple of pieces of ¾ SCH40 PVC pipe with piping insulation adhered to it.
The “by what-ever” x-y dimensions generally exceeds the boats LOA and max beam by 2” either side/end. This way as I maneuver around I’ll chance bumping that rather than taking off a control surface or whacking the Admiral with a sharp screw blade. Also, as they are transported in the bed of my F150, which has a rubber non-skid mat anyway, should they slide into each other, or forward due to collision avoidance/SCPD evasion maneuvering (a required skill on Lawnguyland’s famed LIE), no damage occurs. At least not in the past 30 years I‘ve been doing this. In an instance with large enough truck damage to do something to the boats and I’ll have bigger issues.
Two screw eye’s fwd, two aft, and each set a bungee is usually sufficient for even my largest models. Also with the large models, it’s easy enough of course to acquire rubber bungees, or cover the fabric ones with more of that pipe insulation as to not mar the finish of the boat. Works great on nuc boats w/o railings.
But with the smaller boats, or large ones with delicate deck detail like railings, I make my own custom ones using the ubiquitous blue silicone fuel tubing many of us hobbyists know about. Heck, I use it in so many applications I purchase by the spool!
First, I remove the hooks from old, small, fabric bungees. Then all you need is the appropriately sized Silicone tubing (can fit into the retaining end of the hook), in this case ¼ ID. Two short piece of rigid plastic rod/tube with an OD between the ID and OD of silicone tube to act as a stop. I this example a 3/16” od x 1/8” blue PVC tube (repurposed from a 16AWG Butt connector). Finally for “belt and suspenders”, good old GE silly-cone.
Tools needed: a simple razor blade, and for the accident prone like myself you can opt for a tubing cutter if the stop is a plastic, or even brass tube. Another nice thing to have to insert the stop is a set of small, round nose pliers if it’s a tube. But you can grunt it in with your fingers if needed.
Here I am inserting the stop. Just watch your “Order of Operations”. In my enthusiasm to take notes and photgraph doing this, I accidently put the sop in FIRST before sliding on the hook. Lucky only one side was done. But they can be worked out if needed.
That’s why a squirt of GE filling past the stop (if it’s a tube) is a good “belt and suspenders” idea. Silicone adheres quite well to itself lol. Be patient and let it cure!
So here it is on holding my ALPHA 21 on its transport board. Easy-peasy-lemon squeezy. And it won’t hurt the finish like the standard fabric shock cord ones began to do.
As I stated way back up there, I’m sure there are as many way’s to do this as there are RC Submariners out there. But I was bored one Saturday and didn’t feel like giving “small rubber bungees” a Goog’ after seeing the fabric mar the paint. So whipped these puppies up and I’m happy with the result.
I got even more bored during lunch at work today and decided to share it overly written tip with my RC Shipmates.
Personally, I’d like to see more “TIPS’N TRICKS posted here. They are what make this hobby extra fun. I’m sure there are as many out there as there are users on this forum. So share!
As always, may all your surfacing’s equal your dives!
Comment