Announcement

Collapse

Forum rules and expectations

Hello, and welcome to the forums at the Nautilus Drydocks, formerly Sub-driver.com!

We welcome anyone with a passion for submarines and a desire to learn and share knowledge about this fascinating hobby. Use of these forums indicates your intention to abide by our code of conduct:


1. No spam. All automated messages, advertisements, and links to competitor websites will be deleted immediately.

2. Please post in relevant sub-forums only. Messages posted in the wrong topic area will be removed and placed in the correct sub-forum by moderators.

3. Respect other users. No flaming or abusing fellow forum members. Users who continue to post inflammatory, abusive comments will be deleted from the forum after or without a warning.

4. No threats or harassment of other users will be tolerated. Any instance of threatening or harassing behavior is grounds for deletion from the forums.

5. No profanity or pornography is allowed. Posts containing adult material will be deleted.

6. No re-posting of copyrighted materials or other illegal content is allowed. Any posts containing illegal content or copyrighted materials will be deleted.
See more
See less

D&E Skipjack Trim

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Ok I will remove those nose weights first. Thx.

    Comment


    • #17
      When I was a kid my dad cut arrow fletching / feathers with a hot wire. You could do the same to the foam. Form the hot wire to the shape and spin the foam against it.

      Comment


      • #18
        What’s the difference between the blue RTV you use and the Clear RTV other than color? Is there a specific reason to use the blue?

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by llangston1 View Post
          What’s the difference between the blue RTV you use and the Clear RTV other than color? Is there a specific reason to use the blue?
          Nope. For our purposes, samo-samo.

          David
          "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

          Comment


          • #20
            Ok I made my foam block for the nose and added some thin pieces of foam along the upper hull under the sail area. I had to remove foam in the tail area and add some lead weights. Here is where the trim stands right now. I need to open the vent holes in the rear upper hull so the air escapes easier. My issue right now is getting the ballast lever set correctly. I have it set so it only activated the blow valve when the gas saver float is up high. However when the subsaver emergency blow is activated the valve remains activated and blows all the gas out even after the sub has fully surfaced. I don’t remember it ever doing that in the past. I have only noticed this behavior after I removed the servo to dry it out and replaced it. Any ideas on how to fix that? I can live with it since a full blow is better than no blow. Here is part 1 and here is part 2

            Comment


            • #21
              Sounds like there is a too high gas flow. Tighten the in-line restrictor to reduce the gas flow. What is likely happening is the gas impinging on the gas-saver linkage, freezing it, keeping the float from dropping, so it can't secure the blow even after the tank has been blown dry. Lower the gas discharge rate and you avoid freezing things in there.

              David
              "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

              Comment


              • #22
                Please explain how I tighten the gas flow restrictor. I see it installed in the gas line but have no idea how to mess with it? Just squeeze it more? Do you have any videos I could watch for this? I wonder if this is due to using a different source of propel gas? Before this all I ever used was Testor brand propellant. Now I am using Paasche Brand from a larger can. Could that have a higher pressure than the Testor brand?

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by llangston1 View Post
                  Please explain how I tighten the gas flow restrictor. I see it installed in the gas line but have no idea how to mess with it? Just squeeze it more? Do you have any videos I could watch for this? I wonder if this is due to using a different source of propel gas? Before this all I ever used was Testor brand propellant. Now I am using Paasche Brand from a larger can. Could that have a higher pressure than the Testor brand?
                  Yes, mash it tighter with needle-nose pliers. Most liquified gas at room temperature is about 80 psi, so brand is not an issue.

                  David
                  "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    I believe the sub is ready for open water testing now. I do have ne last issue with the new AD2 auto leveler I bought to replace my old AC-3 leveler. It may have gotten damp in my leaking event and it has never worked correctly since that time. It’s been air drying outside the sub since then so it should be dry. I can’t get it to enter the setup mode correctly now. And when in the WTC It does issue leveling commands to WTC tilt but will not pass through xmitter joystick commands. Without the AD2 I have full pitch plane functionality. For those who have used these devices Are they easily damaged by Any water? I don’t believe this thing could have been submerged since there was only a few tablespoons of water in the rear engine bay. This is my first try at using the AD2 so I am not familiar with its foibles, if any. Any suggestions? Can or should it be soaked in alcohol or soaked with contact cleaner? I would hate to think I ruined it before I even got to use it.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by llangston1 View Post
                      I believe the sub is ready for open water testing now. I do have ne last issue with the new AD2 auto leveler I bought to replace my old AC-3 leveler. It may have gotten damp in my leaking event and it has never worked correctly since that time. It’s been air drying outside the sub since then so it should be dry. I can’t get it to enter the setup mode correctly now. And when in the WTC It does issue leveling commands to WTC tilt but will not pass through xmitter joystick commands. Without the AD2 I have full pitch plane functionality. For those who have used these devices Are they easily damaged by Any water? I don’t believe this thing could have been submerged since there was only a few tablespoons of water in the rear engine bay. This is my first try at using the AD2 so I am not familiar with its foibles, if any. Any suggestions? Can or should it be soaked in alcohol or soaked with contact cleaner? I would hate to think I ruined it before I even got to use it.
                      Follow the instructions to the letter and go through the set-up protocol again.

                      David
                      "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Did you disconnect it and and dry all connections and connectors? Mine got wet, I completely removed it and its plastic covering and used an air blower on all connectoted contacts and the AD2 itself. Then as David said reprogram it. Take care to blow out the rx connector.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          I dried it out and reinstalled the AD2 yesterday morning. I went through the setup procedure and everything worked fine. After the setup the pitch planes responded to auto level commands and also to xmitter joystick commands. Then The battery pack died so I recharged it. A few hours later I reinstalled the battery pack and started checking the operation of the WTC. This time the AD2 worked fine for auto leveling but it would not pass through xmitter commands. I removed it from the circuit and reverified that the pitch channel worked fine without the AD2. I put it back into the circuit and tried to go through the setup procedure again and now the AD2 will not enter setup mode. I will try to return it to Kevin to see if he can fix it. I have no idea why it worked and then it did not. Makes no sense to me.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Sometimes when a battery goes dead, or below a threshold various devices reset requiring you to re program them, even the ESC.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              If it would let me reprogram it I would but it won’t go into setup mode now.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X