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Proper yoke alinement for 1/96 Skipjack

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  • Proper yoke alinement for 1/96 Skipjack

    So with the D&E 1/96 Skipjack hull how much travel should the yokes have? It appears that the pitch yoke travels aft behind the rudder yoke. So it’s hard stops would be the prop shaft for rearward or down plane travel and the rudder yoke on the forward or up plane travel. Should there be any hull interference as the yoke moves aftward? I seem to be getting some rubbing of the yoke on the inside of the outer hull. So should I do some light sanding/grinding to remove that rubbing. Perhaps the yokes need to be centered better. It’s hard enough just getting the hinge pins in the yokes and tightened as there is no a lot of room back there. I feel like I need a few more hands to hold the allen wrench, the flashlight, the boat, the control planes, etc.
    same questions on the rudder yoke. Their hard stops would be the pitch yoke going aft and the prop shaft coming forward. This yoke has no obvious interference with the outer hull.

  • #2
    I'm at this step with the 688. I don't think there's any possible way to get more travel that what you've just described.. only trick is ensuring that the control horns don't interfere at any point in the travel. That's an issue I've come across already, but a little creative bending and locating of yokes and all is good.

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    "It does not take so many words to speak the truth" Chief Joseph

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    • #3
      Any control surface deflection from zero-to-35-degree is fine. Any more travel and the surface stalls out.

      David
      "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

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      • #4
        You have much more space in that rear section so you can can try to center the yokes on the hinge pins.My Skipjack Has no extra room.

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        • #5
          I tried that... the control horns would touch at certain deflections of the surfaces, and I couldn't bend them in such a way that they didn't contact... this setup is a compromise. I get very nearly as much rudder travel as i did before, and they horns still touch but only at max deflection in one direction. I might still be able to center the rudder yoke once I actually connect the planes and set throws.. I'm certain I'm not going to be using full range of motion on the yoke, as those planes are going to be connected to the AD2. Pitch will be by fairwater planes alone.
          "It does not take so many words to speak the truth" Chief Joseph

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          • #6
            Originally posted by a1965l View Post
            I tried that... the control horns would touch at certain deflections of the surfaces, and I couldn't bend them in such a way that they didn't contact... this setup is a compromise. I get very nearly as much rudder travel as i did before, and they horns still touch but only at max deflection in one direction. I might still be able to center the rudder yoke once I actually connect the planes and set throws.. I'm certain I'm not going to be using full range of motion on the yoke, as those planes are going to be connected to the AD2. Pitch will be by fairwater planes alone.
            The fairwater planes don't do squat for pitch -- too closely coupled to the c.g. to do that. The fairwater plans principally push the boat up or down in the water Colum. Fairwater and bow planes are for fine depth control, not boat pitch.

            You people!

            David
            "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

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            • #7
              That makes sense. Especially given that the fairwater planes should be clear of the water in a flooded condition, gonna be hard to drive the boat down with them. I went with the setup on the Akula, where the bow planes are used for pitch control and the stern planes are tied to the AD2 for depth control. Seems to work OK on that boat, but then the bow planes are always underwater, even at full positive bouyancy.
              "It does not take so many words to speak the truth" Chief Joseph

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              • #8
                Another route, and one I have done on my Walrus, is put a wheel collar with a horn on it at each plane shaft and use 1/16 wire to connect the planes further forward. Granted this is an x-tail however the setup would work on a standard cross arrangement. So, from each plane, it would connect to a corresponding pushrod coming out of the WTC.
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                Not sure if it is clear here, but this allows you to adjust individual dive planes easily. Hmmmm looking at this, I have another idea......
                Last edited by trout; Today, 12:37 AM.
                If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

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