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Waterproofing XT60 Battery Connectors

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  • Waterproofing XT60 Battery Connectors

    Greetings!

    For years i have been using racing packs in dry compartments for power supply and am now about to use an SLA battery in the wet. I made custom watertight powerconnections, however as i plan to use the cells on multiple models i'd rather install some prefab/stock plugs. I have often seen XT60's beeing used with e.g. silicon grease for waterproofing. Wonder if there is a less messy way.

    How do you waterproof your connectors?

    Jörg

  • #2
    Originally posted by JHapprich View Post
    Greetings!

    For years i have been using racing packs in dry compartments for power supply and am now about to use an SLA battery in the wet. I made custom watertight powerconnections, however as i plan to use the cells on multiple models i'd rather install some prefab/stock plugs. I have often seen XT60's beeing used with e.g. silicon grease for waterproofing. Wonder if there is a less messy way.

    How do you waterproof your connectors?

    Jörg
    Don't. Just wire-brush the positive conducting elements exposed to water occasionally.

    David
    Resident Luddite

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    • #3
      I understand correctly, i should not apply any sealant and only remove the "rust"?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by JHapprich View Post
        I understand correctly, i should not apply any sealant and only remove the "rust"?
        Yup. Oxidized conductor (likely verdigris). After a few years you'll likely be compelled to replace all the in-water wiring, but that's less arduous than trying to make things perfectly water tight that never will be perfectly water tight. Leave your connectors and plugs bare-fisted -- you slather them with 'waterproofing' goo, you won't see where things are eroding away. Just a light application of silicon grease (distributor grease for you 'gear-heads') is all you apply.

        And never pass insulated wires through the WTC bulkhead as water will work its way between conductor and insulator and will flood wherever the conductor terminates (likely the PCB of an important device, like your ESC or receiver). Use pass-through studs to conduct signal/power between external and internal wiring.

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        One of the many things I learned as a navy Diver was that electrical devices, and particularly those exposed to the environment, will eventually get wet. No matter what you do to prevent it. Our MK1 band-mask comm's had to be replaced almost monthly as they featured 'watertight' connections between Diver umbilical and the hat. Yet, the bare fisted wiring to the old MK 5 diving dress lasted for years -- in salt water!

        I'm the idiot jumping into Naples water... yuck!

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        David
        Resident Luddite

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        • #5
          Great info, thank you. I need to post pictures of my custom assembly, interested in your opinion. Concerning the wiring through the bulkhead, what about the antenna. With the sealed tip and the knot at the receiver end, it does not count?

          Jörg

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by JHapprich View Post
            Great info, thank you. I need to post pictures of my custom assembly, interested in your opinion. Concerning the wiring through the bulkhead, what about the antenna. With the sealed tip and the knot at the receiver end, it does not count?

            Jörg
            If the wet side of the antenna has no damaged insulation and the tip is indeed made watertight (heat-shrink tubing and a dab of silicon rubber does it for me), then a pass-through the bulkhead is OK.

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            But why risk a wet receiver PCB when a simple pass-through stud will let you sleep better at night?



            David
            Resident Luddite

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