Announcement

Collapse

Forum rules and expectations

Hello, and welcome to the forums at the Nautilus Drydocks, formerly Sub-driver.com!

We welcome anyone with a passion for submarines and a desire to learn and share knowledge about this fascinating hobby. Use of these forums indicates your intention to abide by our code of conduct:


1. No spam. All automated messages, advertisements, and links to competitor websites will be deleted immediately.

2. Please post in relevant sub-forums only. Messages posted in the wrong topic area will be removed and placed in the correct sub-forum by moderators.

3. Respect other users. No flaming or abusing fellow forum members. Users who continue to post inflammatory, abusive comments will be deleted from the forum after or without a warning.

4. No threats or harassment of other users will be tolerated. Any instance of threatening or harassing behavior is grounds for deletion from the forums.

5. No profanity or pornography is allowed. Posts containing adult material will be deleted.

6. No re-posting of copyrighted materials or other illegal content is allowed. Any posts containing illegal content or copyrighted materials will be deleted.
See more
See less

Tamiya Musashi

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Tamiya Musashi

    Backstory. Years and years ago, for my birthday I got the best present ever. It was the Tamiya model referenced above, but wonder of wonders, it had a tiny little gearbox, that spun all 4 props from a tiny little brushed motor. As I recall, it actually pushed it around fairly well... but that model is lost to time and the ravages of a teenage boy with access to gasoline and fireworks. Fast forward to today, when I realized that I'm a responsible adult and can buy trinkets from my childhood. A few minutes on the interneck and I found not one, but several offerings. Sadly, all were the Yamato, and not the Musashi. Except for one... but to get it, I had to buy 4 1/350th scale Tamiya ships. I'm actually only going to build two.. hint hint. Musahi and her sister, and Tirpitz and her sister as well. So.... since I'm waiting for my test pond to start looking more like a pond and less like a cup of cocoa frosted with green sugar, let's dive in...

    Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6584-X4.jpg
Views:	200
Size:	62.4 KB
ID:	141627
    Tamiya has great box art, don't they?

    The guy I bought the kits from was straight foward about them not being factory sealed, but he did guarantee that they would have no missing parts. Someone had started the Musashi, just a little painting and such. I'll skip over my prepping the hull and painting the waterline, and the crappy job I did painting the decks. I'm not really worried about making it suprer scale.. it's gonna be a runner, and tiny details have a way of breaking off and such while transporting. I'll use all the pieces, but I"m not going to use any photo-etch or such. And I"m not going to worry to terribly much about my painting not being great... it's going to be a runner, and you'll hopefully see it mostly off in the distance, just like the U.S. Navy saw her....

    To start. Bolt the gearbox in, and the motor. I did this so I could install the struts and ensure that everything was lined up. Going to use the kit struts, and not sleeve them, if it appears to be a problem down the road I'll take care of it. Prop shafts are only held in with rubber tubing, so they're easy enough to remove. Plus, the stuffing boxes have a hole for easy greasin', win win.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6585-X4.jpg
Views:	126
Size:	68.8 KB
ID:	141628

    Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6586-X4.jpg
Views:	120
Size:	56.6 KB
ID:	141629

    Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6587-X4.jpg
Views:	123
Size:	53.0 KB
ID:	141630

    The included props seem to be OK, nothing special, so I'll use them and the included prop shafts. I thought about making brass stuffing boxes, but unfortunately the shafts are some funky metric size, and finding brass tubing to fit them has proven unfruitfull. So I'll just use the plastic boxes in the kit, and keep them full of grease. I don't recall that being a problem on the first one, but that was a lot of years ago. I drilled the holes for the kit rudders, and already we need some improvement. Yes, I did drill a hole in the wrong place.. off to a great start. The stock on the main rudder isn't long enough to clear the waterline. Plus it's just plastic, not exactaly confidence inspiring. Hmm. what to do.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6589-X4.jpg
Views:	124
Size:	56.4 KB
ID:	141631

    Aaaah! I have a piece of brass sheet and some rod.. plus solder and flux. Hey.. even a micro torch. I've got an idea...

    Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6592-X4.jpg
Views:	121
Size:	50.7 KB
ID:	141632

    Let's oversize it just a bit, as this thing is going to need all the help I can give it, especially when I get it ballasted down to the waterline...

    Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6593-X4.jpg
Views:	124
Size:	57.1 KB
ID:	141633

    Will ya look at that.. my snips were right where they were supposed to be. Easy peasy. I'll just make a slot in the rudder to fit the stock and solder it all up...

    Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6594-X4.jpg
Views:	122
Size:	51.2 KB
ID:	141634

    There we go. Nothing to it. I should have made a better jig. as the stock actually isn't centered on the rudder proper. I'll probably be the only one who knows, or notices.. and I'm pretty sure it's not going to affect the handling too adversley. Now, a little work with the file to clean things up, and on to the next... the rudder sleve. The plastic hull is now drilled just a little too large to be comfy with that stock, and I'd really rather it was just a little higher to clear the waterline...

    Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6595-X4.jpg
Views:	123
Size:	59.4 KB
ID:	141635

    There we go. That's a little too high, but I have cutoff wheels. There is another issue, the Mushashi has a sunked deck on the fantail for plane handling, I might have to cut the rudder stock and sleeve a little shorter than I really want to clear it. If necessary, I'll adjust the waterline a bit..

    Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6596-X4.jpg
Views:	119
Size:	62.8 KB
ID:	141636

    A little bit of clearance filing and we'll be ****ting in the tall cotton. Hmm. what about that aux rudder? Leave it fixed? It is a really small ship, after all....

    Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6597-X4.jpg
Views:	125
Size:	58.8 KB
ID:	141637

    What, and say I should have for the next 20 years? Nope. In for a penny, in for a pound. But now, it's time to go to dinner. HOpefully I'll get a few minutes to work on it after... and then early to bed. The US Navy starts early in the morning around here....

    Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6598-X4.jpg
Views:	121
Size:	56.1 KB
ID:	141638

    Lookit all them little props. I Need to do some research and find out if I need to shorten the prop shafts.. I'm not sure if the props ran right up next to the struts, but I'd think so. That's a big ass chunk of metal to have hanging off a prop shaft in the water...

    Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6600-X4.jpg
Views:	119
Size:	58.8 KB
ID:	141639

    I'll spare you most of the fiddley plastic gluing details.. there are lots and lots of them. Unfortunately, the forward rudder post comes up right where the hangar doors are.. would have been nice if it was a half inch further forward.. Ah well. Ce la Vie...
    "It does not take so many words to speak the truth" Chief Joseph

  • #2
    Looks like a fun project, any specific purpose or just a runner?

    Comment


    • #3
      Just a runner, and just because...
      "It does not take so many words to speak the truth" Chief Joseph

      Comment


      • #4
        Let's do something about that aux rudder, shall we? Slightly different approach to this one.. I slotted the brass rod with a cutoff wheel.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6602-X3.jpg
Views:	111
Size:	52.1 KB
ID:	141661

        And solder.. easy peasy. Other than the filing to get the solder blobs off, anyway. I haven't had much luck till now utilizing my small torch to solder, but it's working like a champ.

        3-d printed some rudder horns... looks like the Pet-G isn't quite adhering between layers like it should. Might try them in ABS as well.. very small, and even printing with no infill (solid part) it's only about 5 minutes to print one out...

        Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6603-X3.jpg
Views:	100
Size:	57.1 KB
ID:	141662

        LIttle file work and let's see how it looks all together...

        Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6604-X3.jpg
Views:	103
Size:	61.7 KB
ID:	141663

        Some trimming of rudder stocks and rudder posts and we're looking good. I still need to come up with some setscrews to hold the stocks in place, and then linkages... I figure one between the two and then one to the servo. I don't know if differential travel is going to make a bit of difference...

        Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6605-X3.jpg
Views:	100
Size:	61.2 KB
ID:	141664

        And then, of course, a bunch of gluing little bitty battleship parts together. I'm going crosseyed.
        "It does not take so many words to speak the truth" Chief Joseph

        Comment


        • #5
          I have the Nichimo Yamato in 1/200 that is now on my build schedule (probably Dec), but I that is another story. Why did you enlarge the rudders (any reason other than improve turning radius)? I had the Nichimo Yamato in my youth and the scale rudders worked well as I recall - but I was just enamored with it on the water and the way it pushed through the chop in the pond I ran it in and it was non-RC, so set the angle and let it go.
          If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

          Comment


          • #6
            I think it'll be a little sluggish with the stock rudders. I can always shave the main rudder down if need be... easier to take it off than put it on!


            Except for weight, of course.

            "It does not take so many words to speak the truth" Chief Joseph

            Comment


            • #7
              Small efforts today.. I've been concentrating on gluing plastic bits together. So... rudder servo mount... easy.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6606-X3.jpg
Views:	82
Size:	57.6 KB
ID:	141740

              And then, much to my surprise... I realize that I'm not building the Musashi at all. Took me long enough, but this deck piece is from the Yamato. This was an open box kit, and I should have caught this early on. I was wondering why the pictures of the deck in the instruction book looked different. Well hell.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6607-X3.jpg
Views:	73
Size:	63.9 KB
ID:	141741

              Given that this will be the removable deck, I could just buy another kit and build the proper deck.. or cut off the excess gun tubs and figure out how to detail the other tubs properley. Will come up wtih something sooner or later...
              "It does not take so many words to speak the truth" Chief Joseph

              Comment


              • #8
                So I took the easy way out and just ground off most of the offending gun tubs. There are two, foward, that I'm not going to try and remove as it would entail more scratchbuilding than I want to do with this kit. Actually, since I was thinking about it, I actually considered making the supreme effort and modeling it as it appeared at launching in 1942, with the beam 6" triple turrets. I might buy another kit and actually build the after deck/superstructure that way, as it really appeals to me...

                Click image for larger version

Name:	Musashi1942-X4.png
Views:	73
Size:	30.8 KB
ID:	141802

                But for now, this is what it looks like:

                Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6611-X3.jpg
Views:	68
Size:	59.0 KB
ID:	141803

                I guess the studly thing to do would be to restore the deck planking in that area and all that, but I'm striving for a stand off model that runs, so I think I'll settle for just smoothing it with some abrasives and then paint...

                Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6612-X3.jpg
Views:	69
Size:	54.2 KB
ID:	141804

                Getting there! Esc will be here tomorrow, then we'll ballast 'er down and get in some sea trials....
                "It does not take so many words to speak the truth" Chief Joseph

                Comment


                • #9
                  Updates. Spent some time in the water. With no ballast, floated very high, but rudder was very effective and fairly responsive. No idea about how it will behave ballasted down.. had to cut the session short as I fouled the props fairly quickly. Plus the pond looks, well, just nasty this time of year.

                  So back in the tub for proper ballasting. I used a new technique.. BB's in a plastic bag. That way I could place them right where I needed them, and the package was somewhat conformal. Then, I mixed 30 minute epoxy and filled the bag.. stuck back in place, a little patience, and voila! Conformal ballast of exactaly the right weight. Plus, if necessary, I can always clip a few BB's off to fine tune list and trim... Fwd deck glued on, I have to find some magnets for the aft deck but I'm sure I have some around here somewhere...

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6613-X3.jpg
Views:	69
Size:	58.0 KB
ID:	141944

                  Added some emergency reserve bouyancy.. just in case...

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6614-X3.jpg
Views:	59
Size:	64.0 KB
ID:	141945

                  And after an overnight cure... well coated, and well stuck together. Plus they're a "snap" fit where they go.. no chance of them moving around while we're weathering scale typhoons.

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6615-X3.jpg
Views:	58
Size:	68.6 KB
ID:	141946

                  And foward deck permenantly installed... getting close. Still have some little fiddly bits to stick on, but I'm not going crazy with the detailing with this one... too delicate.

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	D7K_6616-X3.jpg
Views:	59
Size:	64.1 KB
ID:	141947
                  "It does not take so many words to speak the truth" Chief Joseph

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Great idea on the BB's with epoxy in a bag. I would still stick it down with something to make sure it doesn't shift with a rogue wave! or god forbid a full roll.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Underway in home waters.. threaded the channel and coming alongside. Pond is very low, I would normally be standing in 1' or so of water right there.

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	Resized952020080295182419-X4.jpg
Views:	39
Size:	69.3 KB
ID:	142529

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	Resized_20200802_182253-X3.jpg
Views:	34
Size:	62.3 KB
ID:	142530

                      Has a very scale top speed. Rudder is very responsive... glad I oversized it. Don't know if the pony rudder helps or not but it's there. makes lots of noise, and sounds very busy underway.. might try and slop more grease on the gears and see if that quiets it down some. Motor was cool when I got it out of the water, but I had some water onboard.. need to pull the rudders and grease the shafts.. they're in dry right now. I would have made the rudder tube higher than the waterline, but that wasn't possible with the hangar deck... ah well. I think we'll put a done stamp on this one... on to the next!
                      "It does not take so many words to speak the truth" Chief Joseph

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Guess the only other option to the noisy gearbox is to go direct drive with 4 motors to each prop shaft. Some modelers just power 2 shaft leaving the other 2 as dummies.
                        Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I thought about that. 2 larger props inboard and the outboards dummies. Might be able to spin the whole drivetrain slower.. the little tiny props do need to spool up to make any usefull thrust
                          "It does not take so many words to speak the truth" Chief Joseph

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X