OK enough chit-chat. Get to it ....
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Revell Gato build question
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Well lionfish made by revell was the first model i ever made of a submarine when i was a kid that my grandfather gave me, Iv always dreamed of having my lionfish submarine that i could control with a remote in the water, Back then i never knew of or ever heard of if there were submarine models that could dive and raise back up. Now that i know they exists i set my sights higher from when i was a kid.
My ultimate dream submarine even before the lionfish is the gato class submarine that my grandfather had a model of and told me stories of when he served on a gato in WW2. I want to build this model in his memory and honor his service. The gato submarine build is my true dream but the lionfish will do for now lolLeave a comment:
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So just paint the wtc grey...Square hole unless you've plans to make a good display piece building it up to show off the pressure hull in an rc subject that scale is going to give an assortment of issues. Now I have seen a Gato with a scratch made deck using thin styrene strips with the appropriate gaps so you could see below decks and he also used the eduard or sets out there. It was indeed a great display model. Now the type of scratch build deck with scal planks and gaps will I believe act as a net to trap air bubbles due to water tension and small gaps. Dunk a wire sieve upside down in water and look at all the trapped little silver bubbles... And large pieces of pe sections which can look good are a bane to glue and keep glued in place on a working rc model. I love the scale detail and look of my subjects and I will be the first to say I am more of a model kit assembly bloke more than an rc engineer/mechanic. To me trying to make the 1/72 a dry hull scalled looking working display and rc model combined is indeed a notable challenge but I fear that without strong stout and unswerving devotion it may end being an uncompleted project and haunting dream in a corner. Which would be a sad thing indeed. Get the model, get the parts from Caswells and David build it up with the wet hull and play with it, learn with it and enjoy it. Then maybe experiment with a dry hull that has a bit more room in length and beam.Last edited by alad61; 09-30-2013, 03:59 AM.Leave a comment:
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Good place to start? For making a boat, yes. Just because it is a submarine in shape the ability to dive AND rise is another feat entirely. To do that for a first boat and sticking with the Gato, Revell 1/72 scale would be the minimum. It is not the easiest build either.
Saying all that, if it was a dream to build a running USS Lionfish, then do it! We will support you. If you do not have a r/c transmitter look at the wFly radio - it is the one I use. http://www.sub-driver.com/electronic...ansmitter.html it will grow with you because you can store separate settings for the different subs (surface or diving). Because it is a not diving sub, you might have plenty of room for receiver, esc, battery, and motors. Lastly, post your build here because you may never know who else has a similar dream.Leave a comment:
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Model is too small.
Why try Academy's 1/150 diving u-boat model. Enough space inside for electronics and batteries. Since it's already motorized RCing would be easier.Last edited by redboat219; 09-29-2013, 10:52 PM.Leave a comment:
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Do you mean too small, As in to small of model or too small of project for a beginner?
What do you mean exactly?Leave a comment:
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I think The reason WHY i want a dry hull is mainly cause i have a *CURSE* of wanting alot of things in my life to have a sense of reality and/or realism in them, I want my submarine to have a feeling of, I did something that satisfies my need to have it based on what a real submarine would be like, A water tight hull (dry hull).Leave a comment:
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Saying all that, if it was a dream to build a running USS Lionfish, then do it! We will support you. If you do not have a r/c transmitter look at the wFly radio - it is the one I use. http://www.sub-driver.com/electronic...ansmitter.html it will grow with you because you can store separate settings for the different subs (surface or diving). Because it is a not diving sub, you might have plenty of room for receiver, esc, battery, and motors. Lastly, post your build here because you may never know who else has a similar dream.Leave a comment:
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Do it like everyone else does, damit!
Get cute later, after you have some run-time under your belt.
Look at Tom: he started conservatively; he got to know the ropes first. Now, he's snot-slinging crazy and doing some ground-braking work in the field.
Crawl, walk, run, sprint. Pay your dues.
MLeave a comment:
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Do it like everyone else does, damit!
Get cute later, after you have some run-time under your belt.
Look at Tom: he started conservatively; he got to know the ropes first. Now, he's snot-slinging crazy and doing some ground-braking work in the field.
Crawl, walk, run, sprint. Pay your dues.
MLeave a comment:
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I think The reason WHY i want a dry hull is mainly cause i have a *CURSE* of wanting alot of things in my life to have a sense of reality and/or realism in them, I want my submarine to have a feeling of, I did something that satisfies my need to have it based on what a real submarine would be like, A water tight hull (dry hull).
It didn't really cross my mind of showing off how detailed the interior is, Most of who would see it in action wouldn't really care about the inside, I just wanted the water tight tubes inside to protect the equipment in case it sprung a leak. but if this is not practical i may stay away from this idea. But all in all im not really worried about the detail inside i just want a sub to have a dry hull that can dive. If its possible i want to do it that way ill make it happen lol, if not ill do it like every one else :)Leave a comment:
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Instead of doing a detailed interior make a diving sub with detailed deck plus a complement of 1/72 deck hands you can place onboard when the boat's on display.Last edited by redboat219; 09-29-2013, 10:50 AM.Leave a comment:
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