i new to r.c. subs. i have a d&e wtc for the gas ballast system . this type goes into the revell 1/72 type 7 u-boat. what i need now is a basic diagram of the wiring lay out for the type 7 with out forward dive planes or torpedo tubes. i also need a list of the electronics needed, and the basic lay out of the componets is this printed up some where , or can it be supplied by some one. thanks for any help.kurt250
need help
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Kurt250,
Welcome!
There is a lot of resource at this site and others, but mainly here. One stop would be here http://support.caswellplating.com/in...-cabal-reports These cabal reports will give you insight on setting up your sub. The builders thread and the contests threads also have plenty of information for the type VII, but if you read the other build logs you will see some similarities in all the subs (like receiver, pitch controller [leveler], failsafe, esc [electronic speed control], servos, battery [LiPo], dog bone connector, and assorted bits of brass)
We are all here to help, from beginners like me to old timers like David.
Peace,
tomIf you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub. -
Old!!!!!!!............???????????????
[ATTACH=CONFIG]17950[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]17951[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]17952[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]17953[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]17954[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]17955[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]17956[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]17957[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]17958[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]17959[/ATTACH]Who is John Galt?Comment
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Yes to the fuse. Some people advocate fitting a fuse either side of the controller, I think that is overkill. Position of switch doesn't really matter in this instance.Comment
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Everybody sure about this one? I thought the currents flow in DC was from the (-) negative
too the Positive (+). So shouldn't the fuse be in the negative lead? Otherwise the current
flows through all the componets before it hits the fuse.
Scott TComment
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Does not matter which side of the poles you put the fuse. Current flow is speed of light (a bit less, but let's not get too anal here), break the circuit, EMF goes to zero and current flow stops dead.Who is John Galt?Comment
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thanks to you all. this was very helpful. but im afraid in need a little more, i need the names of the various electronic parts, what is the lpb switch?, the lipo guard?, the esc + bec? i know you guys do this all the time so forgive me for being a dummy in these issues. i'll learn ,its just going to take me a wile. thanks again to you all, and please bear with me. kurt250Comment
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thanks to you all. this was very helpful. but im afraid in need a little more, i need the names of the various electronic parts, what is the lpb switch?, the lipo guard?, the esc + bec? i know you guys do this all the time so forgive me for being a dummy in these issues. i'll learn ,its just going to take me a wile. thanks again to you all, and please bear with me. kurt250
Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!Comment
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i think what he wants is something like this i am building a vIIc uboat.i got
1 2inch revell vIIc subdriver with 4 servos/2 moters/ microviper10 installed
2 radio sys 6 or 8 ch
3 rx sombra labs (lepton6 or sl8) if you get the 6 you need a different mini crystal ordered seperatly
4 2 batt's&charger
5 the adf2 for stern planes&failsafe
6 lipogard failsafe
7 mini snort system kit (moter&control board)
8 propel
9 the will to fit it all togetherComment
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Esc - electronic speed controller allows you to increase, decrease, or reverse your motor speed (ultimately your props)
bec - battery elimination circuit allows you to use one power supply and take from that a 5 volt line to your receiver
lpb - low pressure blower is simply a pump to suck air in and displace water in your ballast tank so the switch turns on or off the pump.
lipo guard - a device to notify you of a potential low voltage in you LiPo battery. Bad stuff happens when LiPo batteries go too low.If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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