Need Help Identifying New Kit!

[button pusher]

Hello! First-timer here, picked up a fiberglass hull and some assorted bits that I could use some feedback on before I dig into my first sub build - I'm wondering what ship this is actually modelled after, my best guess is the Balao-Walrus Class (Galao class post GUPPY treatment).


The sail looks pretty much identical and I can't find anything else even close - either late war or early post war American hull and then this weird slicked back sail.



The whole thing came pretty barebones, with three WTC cylinders and a few bulkheads, along with a bulkhead supported dual driveshafts and two servos for tailplanes. Are these parts worthwhile to fiddle around with? I was eyeing the 100mm dual tank setup, but it's a bit pricey. Still a good fit for this boat? Nearly 6.5 feet long, beam is about 8 inches. Thanks in advance!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Looks like Dave Manley mechanics. Hull is likely Scale Shipyards. Sail? Sail is E.B. style, stepped, hull and sail make it look like a GUPPY2A (modified TENCH CLASS, post war). Like my old boat, the USS TRUTTA (SS421).

[Subculture]

What you have looks very useable to me, tank size looks reasonable. The Dave Manley cylinders are well engineered just make sure the seals are in good shape, e.g. not cracked or perished etc.

You could add in a small air pump (very cheap) and a snorkel to blow out the tank instead of using airbrush propellant, and keep the gas as a back up.

[button pusher]

Wow! Thanks for the quick replies, thought I was the only one up late.

You are right, definitely seems like the GUPPY 2.

What would my ideal system setup/layout look like? I have one very thick WTC, maybe 4mm x 260mm, the cylinder, and two thinner long section of WTC. Am I wrong to assume the cylinder should be as near to the center of mass as possible?

[button pusher]

So far this is the only logical way I can piece it all together. I honestly don't fully understand quite how this gas system works (why is it venting to the open section, and not to the sealed piston?) The sections both labelled #1 are identical, perhaps one extra?

[button pusher]

Unfortunately there are no O-rings, but that shouldn't be a big deal. I am worried about the stuffing boxes though, anyone know what grease is recommended? Doesn't look like mine are fully stuffed.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

#1 and #3 are dry spaces. #2 is a gas type ballast tank.

Here's what you do:

Complete the model as far as primer gray; buy a proper WTC for the thing (R&R might have what you need) and size its ballast tank to contain a volume of water a bit more than the total displacement of all above waterline structures; integrate the WTC running gear and control surface linkages with the model; trim the thing; final painting and weathering.

And you're done.

If you're not prepared to to the above, I suggest you're in the wrong game. Sell the current mess to Bob, buy a few foamy-airplanes and enjoy yourself.

You're welcome.

David
The Horrible

[button pusher]

Well it all sounds doable, I'm not just going to give up something new in the fist hour because it's difficult. I research as much as I can then ask advice from knowledgeable people such as yourself when I'm stuck.

I understand the traditional gas type ballast tanks, this one either came not fully assembled or just has an extra part - is this some weird piston style tank or can I just glue this onto the end of the tank? Seems like a weird choice if used for a bulkhead.

[redboat219]

Bob has an old youtube video showing how the SWM WTC is set up.

[RCSubGuy]

Bob has an old youtube video showing how the SWM WTC is set up.

Oh my lord.... was I ever so young?

[Subculture]

Gas system works by venting the tank at the top via servo or solenoid actuated valve, water floods in through the hole in the bottom- down you go. The copper gas canister should be prefilled with airbrush propellant, which I believe is pressurised at about 50psi and in liquid form, but when realised into the atmosphere it quickly expands into a gas, with a valve operated on the gas tank it will blow the water back out from whence came, and up you come (hopefully).

[trout]

Bob, you are just a baby in that video. This is the youngest I have seen you.


I have the molds to the SWM wtc systems. I will be converting them to 3D for future usage.
Dave is a brilliant mind and very creative. Love his cylinders.

[Subculture]

If you're focused on getting the system you have to work, I'd advise putting the hull to one side and focus on getting a functional wtc, as that is essentially your submarine- the hull is just a posh frock with some control surfaces and streamlining.

Strip the cylinder of all electronics and remove the motors, but leave all the shafts in place and focus on making that cylinder watertight. That's a hurdle many fail at early on especially when they're taking on something used/messed with.If it leaks, you can work on rectifying it without waterlogging your electronics.

I would just keep the rear section and ballast tank, ditch the third compartment, it's not required. You may need to accept a lower waterline than scale if the ballast tank is too small, or make a larger one if that's important.

[Das Boot]

Bob has an old youtube video showing how the SWM WTC is set up.

How old were you then Bob, 19?

[Subculture]

That was 18 years ago, so that would have made him 32.