Switches

[Trim Tank Tinkerer]

Hey all,

Dumb newbie here. I ordered a 100mm cylinder from R&R through the drydocks and I finally got it all wired up...almost. I went to turn it on and found that the switch was functioning as a momentary switch instead of an on/off switch as I was expecting it too, am I not using it correctly to get it to stay on, or do I need to change out the switch of an on/off switch? Looking online it is possible to convert a momentary switch into a toggle switch, but that would be way more complicated than just swapping it out. Here is a picture of the switch. Also, how the heck do you tell the ground on this thing, I blew two fuses before I realized I had ground and operating swapped, the ground is not brass as I have seen online. Looking at pictures, R&R usually does include a push button on/off switch, that is why I am thinking something is wrong on my end here.

[MFR1964]

Yup, you're right, you need a on/ off switch, not a toggle, just order one and replace it.

Manfred

[type7]

My R&R switches are push to on then push to off. This is dc so what is positive and negative depends on how you wire it. I don't think the switch is large enough to handle the full current load and should be used to replace the switch on the esc. I strongly suggest you add a circuit breaker coming off of the battery.

[RCSubGuy]

I believe Ron said that he mistakenly got a batch of momentary switches instead of latching ones. Just grab a latching push button switch off of Amazon or wherever. Swapping out should take all of 30 seconds and you're off to the races.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I believe Ron said that he mistakenly got a batch of momentary switches instead of latching ones. Just grab a latching push button switch off of Amazon or wherever. Swapping out should take all of 30 seconds and you're off to the races.

There you go. Problem identified and solution offered.

[SubSteve]

Swapping the switch to a push-push operation is the correct fix. I am curious about your shorting problem and why there are three connections to the switch, what does each lead do? Do you have a wiring diagram of what you're trying to accomplish?

[Trim Tank Tinkerer]

Hey everyone, sorry for the long wait for recognition, I really appreciated all the help from everyone. In my search for a push on/off switch I found it incredibly frustrating to find one that either wasn't momentary or wasn't ridiculously small for my application. Here is the solution I went with, a 20A rated switch / breaker from autozone, no it is not pretty, yes it is probably overkill, but it gets the job done. It is interrupting mainline power to the components with a 10A fuse in series to hopefully prevent any component damage from shorts or over draw. if anyone has any feedback on why this wouldn't be a good idea, I am more than open to hear suggestions.

Out of curiosity, how would I use a lower rated switch in the application of an RC submarine if not to interrupt power supply to all components, based on the size of the momentary switch I would have had a hard time believing it was large enough had it been an off/on switch, granted I have no idea what current draw will be like or if I just have no idea how this smaller circuits work, used to large MW 450VAC distribution, still adjusting to smaller circuitry.

[type7]

A small switch just replaces the switch on the esc effectively turning the power on and off.

[Das Boot]

Looks like another place for a leak. Get a 15 a magnetic mission on/off switch. Bob sells them.

https://www.rc-submarine.com/_files/ugd/856fdf_3f6e8d39c7134da79359e4a5975367a9.pdf

[RCSubGuy]

The placement of the R&R switch is a pain, as the battery is on the other side of the cylinder. What they offer works fine, it's just not idea. Remote or magnetic switch is a nice upgrade. Typical current draw on a sub wouldn't exceed 8A if you're running flank speed and cycling the pump.

[wlambing]

Use a Magnetic Mission Switch!!! Get away from the over-sized, bulky and parasitic remote goober thing!!!!! :)