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HMS Meteorite Project Help Please

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  • HMS Meteorite Project Help Please

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ID:	162771yY24ecQ.pngyY24ecQ.pngClick image for larger version  Name:	PbDiroX.jpg Views:	0 Size:	10.3 KB ID:	144094Click image for larger version  Name:	OWU8cBA.jpg Views:	0 Size:	54.9 KB ID:	144095Click image for larger version  Name:	5E4tZTU.jpg?1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	78.0 KB ID:	144096Click image for larger version  Name:	tvHgc1b.jpg Views:	0 Size:	70.8 KB ID:	144097Click image for larger version  Name:	C7bp7ig.jpg Views:	0 Size:	63.5 KB ID:	144098Click image for larger version  Name:	2kn8fIK.jpg Views:	0 Size:	65.4 KB ID:	144099Click image for larger version  Name:	btjP0vV.jpg Views:	0 Size:	59.0 KB ID:	144093My first post. Not sure how this first post will look. Hope you can help me with sub ad posting here.... I am slowly building a 1/30 scale HMS Meteorite ( Ex U-1407 - Type 17B) . I wanted to try a model subject that was different from the usual. I have had the stern planes made up in 3d printing. Also a new streamlined conning tower cap to conform to the British rebuild of her at Barrow in Furness in 1947.

    I have a problem, & plea inexperience, but I know the best in the sub model business are here so here goes. I had the stern planes 3d printed with channels in the stern planes for flexible cables to move the control surfaces. I am experimenting with stainless steel leaders as control cables. They seem like they may work...but worried about 'slop' & also as important = a way to mechanically connect the control surfaces to the cables that is simple and reliable (mission critical). Any thoughts please? Getting back into the RC Submarine model hobby. Steven
    Last edited by Albacore 569; 07-08-2022, 11:21 PM.

  • #2
    Use magnets. No back-lash, no 'slop', no mechanical fasteners to play with each time you have to access the WTC.

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    Resident Luddite

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    • #3
      https://www.rc-sub.de/unterwasser/11-typ-17b

      https://www.rc-sub.de/unterwasser/101-17b-porno-edition
      Regards Gantu

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      • #4
        The circled parts in this pic may solve a problem I'm having with a build. Are they commercially available?

        Captain Curious Click image for larger version

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        Born in Detroit - where the weak are killed and eaten.

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        • #5
          Those form part of the Skipjack fittings kit, available here: https://www.rc-submarine.com/product...ack-1-72-scale

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          • #6
            Nice, another type XVIIb, i'm also building one in the same scale,started a few years ago and restarted her recently, as for the cables i tried that, a bit stiff to my taste, ended up with sliding rods, no play and a smooth action.
            The guys are right, magnet couplers is the way if you use a WTC or MSD, mine is a dryhull, so i went with mechanical couplers.

            Manfred.
            I went underground

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            • #7
              All excellent advice. MFR1964? How did you translate the mechanical couplers through the stern planes please?

              I am restarting mine too. Trying a dry hull, because its how the hull was designed ot be. I have a German piston tank for her, but only acquainted with WTC's. I wanted to try and make the piston work because its a challenge and way one learns things, how others do it. The WTC's are probably simpler? I'm sure in Europe, where these piston tanks are more common, piston tanks are obviously favored instead. The hull is certainly robust, has to be since it has to take the pressures as the piston works. Means seals are critical too for controls and propeller shaft. Open to all ideas.

              Wow, see been promoted to Lieut JG already....cool.


              Steven
              Last edited by Albacore 569; 10-26-2020, 12:43 AM.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Albacore 569 View Post
                e the pressures as the piston works. Means seals are critical too for controls and propeller shaft. Open to all ideas.

                Wow, see been promoted to Lieut JG already....cool.


                Steven
                LOL, moving on up!

                I do not know that pistons are simpler, I do like them though. With a dry hull, you will be adding a lot of weight to overcome the additional buoyancy the dry hull offers.
                I like what you have done so far. Looking at the picture, you do not have a lot of material to lift out of the water, so a smaller volume can be used.
                Peace,
                Tom
                If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

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                • #9
                  Steven,

                  Sorry for the late reaction, first had to finish up some building activities for the wife,

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                  First i tried this, it turned out to be too bulky to hide under the outer skin.

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                  Tried to use a cable, this ran not smooth, it took a lot of force to move.

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                  I ended up with this, sliding action, and small enough to hide under the outer skin.

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                  Like yours, my tail is hollow, after placing the steering mechanism i clued down the outer skins.

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                  I ended up with this, still have to make the covers to hide the steering rods of both the rudder and divingplanes.

                  Manfred.

                  Last edited by MFR1964; 11-08-2020, 02:12 PM. Reason: rusty fingers
                  I went underground

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                  • #10
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                    Last edited by Albacore 569; 07-08-2022, 11:10 PM.

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                    • #11
                      Once I am confidant of the stainless steel cables for stern planes, will mate stern to aft hull. Trying heavy steel flexible fishing cables that run through the narrow channel 3 d printed into the control surfaces. What works best? Like to connect to magnets to the WTC control rods. Converting this single hull into a free flooding boat with 3.5 inch WTC. Old Dave Manley scale propellor is perfect for this 1/30 scale future HMS Meteorite.

                      Steve
                      Last edited by Albacore 569; 07-08-2022, 11:16 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Using push-pull linkages? Pretty much any gauge of stainless wire would be more than up to the job, but you will need to ensure they remain taught.
                        Time to DIVE IN! https://www.facebook.com/groups/133360626703083/

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Subculture View Post
                          Using push-pull linkages? Pretty much any gauge of stainless wire would be more than up to the job, but you will need to ensure they remain taught.
                          I agree completely, thats what I am pondering....thinking of curved brass tubing into the free flood area around propellor shaft that aligns with magnetic couplers? Welcome all suggestions that follow KISS (keep in simple) principle of course. No bow planes to worry about, they will be rigged out manually before going out on pond. The Real Type XVIIB's rotated their fixed plane 90 degrees from centerline to perpendicular to the hull for added pitch stability underwater. It was essentially a fixed canard. Thank you for the reply Subculture. My salutes to you Bob, & the great David!

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                          • #14
                            Look here some nice tips

                            https://www.rc-sub.de/unterwasser/11-typ-17b
                            Regards Gantu

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                            • #15
                              Danke Gantu

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