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Exactly how are rivet heads reproduced on models? I can guess that its small blobs of something like glue...but there has got to be a better way, considering Ive seen models with literally hundreds of em.
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A man of true Frankenstinean proportions!! -
Hey, Kim (he just off-loaded an 'impressive' 1/144 AKULA kit on me .... I'm plotting my revenge as I write this). Depends if the rivet is flush, or stands proud of the plate. Flush is represented with a circle cutting punch. Raised is, as you say, a glob of goo. You want rivets ... I got your rivets right here, pal!:
Who is John Galt? -
Several ways to make rivets. There are commercially made stick on transfer or 3D decals various sizes. you can use a hypodermic needle and glue dots. I usually use thin aluminium sheet and dimple the rivets from the back side, then glue the pannel on the modelAttached FilesComment
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How to rivet a patch on a void. Step one, drink beer, step two. Carefully cut the can without cutting your fingers. Generally I saw the top with the ring off, and save it, for other things. I use a dremmel and a carbide disc. Simple shears or sisors cut the can. The lower part of the can, could be removed at this point either shears or dremmel. The decals on the can are sanded off. The piece is cut to the shape you want. Generally I make a paper template for the piece, aligning the original rivet line on the model. In this demo, I'll skip that step, since it's a small piece and on the bottom, never will be noticed. Using the rivet per cm. deduction, actually 1.2cm in this application, I penciled in the dots on the bottom side of the patch.(inside of can) a little primer first, to make the dots easy to see, and corrosive inhibit. Zinc primer recommended, it etches the metal and corrosion won't compromise theCA. Using a scribe, being careful not to penetrate the aluminium, press the rivetsAttached FilesComment
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Still figuring out this picture posting processAttached FilesComment
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Glued in place, ready for the forward point part of the keel, no balkgarat sonar, on early type IX C 40Attached FilesComment
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Time?. This 1/32 total scratch build, took about a year to rivet the hull. I think around 10,000 little buggers on the hull. Don't even ask about cutting limbers and weld lines. Deck is another year of wood and metal cutting. It,s never finished. Learning process all the time. I made it a dynamic diver, "free running" no RC just switch on and manual pitch on the planes. Open ocean, no pool boundaries. Point and hope, just like free flight airplanes. It ran away once and dove to the bottom in about 30 ft of water. WTC compromised, and froze up the motors and salt water ate the 12v motor cycle battery. It's been retired, so all that work, is not lost. Soon to go to refit surgery to remove the cancerous power plant. Has been sitting for a couple years. I have a 3 inch subdriver that will go in. After the chop job, there will have to be cosmetics, so rivets ain't done yet.Attached FilesComment
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Plastic sheet for the sides, slightly heavier aluminium sheet, than beercan, for bottom piece, filed and trimmed. Some filler and paint to follow.Attached FilesComment
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Primer and ready for the bottom Allbricht, schwartzgrun paintAttached FilesComment
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Sanded lightly before top coatAttached FilesComment
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I've done both glue and embossing and I have to say I like the embossing better for many reasons. You need to add a sheet over the existing model, but you get way more uniform rivets and if you set up your jig properly you get nice, clean rivets, especially when doing smaller ones.
Here is how I riveted the torpedo doors on my current Type VII build:
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that's the way I did mine, with the exception of some places just metal, no plastic backing. Some times heavier gage metal and different tools that I have ground the tip shape. For instance the little acess doors on the tower I use a piece of steel wire with a flattened tip like a screwdriver to make hinge dimples. The markings for the ballast emergency access, the circle and box with the cross, I embossed from behind as well. My 1/32 boat is scratch built aluminium over wire and wood, so, rivets, limber holes and everything else is hand tooled.I've done both glue and embossing and I have to say I like the embossing better for many reasons. You need to add a sheet over the existing model, but you get way more uniform rivets and if you set up your jig properly you get nice, clean rivets, especially when doing smaller ones.
Here is how I riveted the torpedo doors on my current Type VII build:
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Holy Mackerel...Von Hilde and Subhuman...your absolutely beautiful work reminds me of a young David Merriman
Looking at work like these examples lends me to believe that IM DOOMED!A man of true Frankenstinean proportions!!Comment
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Kim try www. Micro mark.com.Comment
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