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So, I had issues with Deans connectors, but I bought cheap nock-offs.
This video shows why I may have been judging them for the wrong reason.
This video shows why I may have been judging them for the wrong reason.
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If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub. -
With all of the different connectors sold on eBay or Amazon, how do you know if you are buying authentic connectors whether they be Dean's or XT style? Unless you buy them direct from the manufacturer.
And similar to this, I posted something not to long ago about the difference between generic fuses vs name brand fuses. With generic not being true to what they should be rated at. -
Ken,
I wish I was originally concerned about actual Deans connectors, but I wasn't. Deans are made in America so if it is China, then not genuine. Vendors may say genuine Deans connector if they sell it.
here is one source from the video:
male - https://www.amainhobbies.com/deans-h...5157_c3c9cf531
female - https://www.amainhobbies.com/deans-h...5157_b3c9c6ae9
I had a feeling about the resistance when I put my Gato together over a decade ago. I had some horrible electrical issues that started when I used some cheap connectors. Since I was new at the time, I just blamed myself on my soldering skills, but even redoing it I still saw problems. Anyway, the knowledge is out there. Use at your own risk. Same for those fuses. Penny wise, pound foolish - I think the saying goes.
Peace,
TomIf you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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I’ve never had a single issue with the generic versions. I guess if you are pushing the connectors close to or exceeding their current limit you may experience issues, but for subs that’s rarely an issue.
the voltage drop in those tests looked very small, millivolts wasn’t it?
I think the XT connectors are easier to separate and would be my first choice these days. Like the Deans, lots of copies out there.
what issues were you experiencing?Last edited by Subculture; 10-09-2024, 03:26 PM.Comment
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This is really good information. Scale model subs don't generally draw many amps but just for the record I have seen a Deans connector (genuine deans) handle as much as 100 amps in RC aircraft.
The Deans knock off connectors you buy on Amazon etc (usually called T plugs or connectors) are okay for the most part with some exceptions:
1) If you mix and match different brands of knock off connectors they sometimes don't make contact at all and require you to bend the pins so they do.
2) I have seen more than once where when you push the connector together the spring steel contact bends and touches the opposite polarity resulting in a POW! moment.
3) they can be really hard to push together and/or get apart but this is true for all connectors.
4) Genuine Deans connectors and the knock offs have a minor flaw in that the male side has exposed contacts. This can be a problem if you connect multiple batteries in parallel as at some point you will have an exposed "hot" connector.
Old Tamiya connectors have a similar history. The Genuine Tamiya branded ones where really good. Eventually the cheap copies where so common that people started to just think that Tamiya connectors where no good.
JasonComment
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Blade type fuses are another situation where knockoff's are substandard! Be aware of cheap Chinese knockoffs where saving a few cents can cost you hundreds!Comment
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Here's the thread on generic vs name brand fuses.
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Thanks Ken for posting the site.Comment
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