A Work In Progress

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  • Occupant
    Lieutenant, Junior Grade
    • Jan 2025
    • 18

    #1

    A Work In Progress

    Been in RC a while - cars.

    Decided to try something different, a submarine, a different submarine, cross between a jet fighter and a sub.
    This started as a doodle, then several iterations to get the body shape then fill in the blanks - all the internals.
    Along the way have revised the body several times for little tweaks - length to hold components, tail shroud adjusting ratios of inlet/outlet, how to steer, etc...

    First test of the drive (prop) results were unexpected - the tapered tail shroud is enough of a drop that in addition to flow thru had considerable backwash coming from the inlet. Several prop configurations were tested all with more of the same results. Finally came up with a working solution - archimedes screw pump configuration.
    Next came the ballast pump - again doing something different using a brushless motor outside the WTC. a few iterations again - smaller motor, cheaper motor, better print material etc....

    All that brings me up to this week, testing integration of the ballast tank and peristaltic pump. First test had its pros and cons. Pro - filled the ballast tank in about 15 seconds. Con at about 80% filled starte leaking past the O-rings. Inspecting the leak path seems like the lead in chamfers for the O-rings were close enough to get movement on the o-rings at higher pressure. With that moved the seals farther in away from the lead in chamfer. Print assemble and test (again). Moving the seals worked - too good, now have water weeping thru the pieces.... so yet another issue to address. Eventually will figure all this out.
    Attached Files
  • Subculture
    Admiral

    • Feb 2009
    • 2329

    #2
    Surprised you’re using a ballast system with a subject like this, most would just trim it to be an ounce or so buoyancy and dynamically dive.

    What sort of ballast volume to cylinder volume are you running, peristaltic pumps can get to very high pressures, so you do have to watch out for over doing it.

    Comment

    • Occupant
      Lieutenant, Junior Grade
      • Jan 2025
      • 18

      #3
      Surprised you're using a ballast system...not the first time i've heard this... 1) dynamic diver vs fully submersible makes me think snorkel vs scuba 2) its a challenge, don't want to give up an JUST be a dynamic diver. 3) solve for this and can use the system again in other designs where a full WTC design isn't the best fit (SeaQuest?). Ballast volume to cylinder volume? I think i understand what you're asking - interior ballast volume is approximately 15% total displaced water mass for the whole boat fully submerged. As the design stands today the waterline should be just below the leading edge of the canopy. Yes the peristaltic pump is a beast, plan is to get it all playing together well then address it with transmitter controls (speed, duration, etc)

      Yesterday Grandson asked hows your model sub coming? Why a model sub? Guess the interest runs in the family
      Attached Files

      Comment

      • Subculture
        Admiral

        • Feb 2009
        • 2329

        #4
        15% of cylinder volume, that will only be around 2.5 psi, which is nothing, in which case your seal squish and or bore tolerance is poor.

        Comment

        • Occupant
          Lieutenant, Junior Grade
          • Jan 2025
          • 18

          #5
          Sorry I don't think we're communicating well.

          See if this clarifies things, the internal volume of my ballast tank (separate tank) is 15% of the TOTAL displaced water volume of the submerged boat. 10% should be enough to dive, have additional 5% for air space (compressed gas or additional water)

          Seal is per Apple seal design guide (with printed tolerances) https://www.applerubber.com/oring-gland-calculator/

          So if i use 90% (approximation) of the tank for ballast (water) air pressure in the tank would be 147 psi https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/boyles-law

          Latest test today after trying acetone vapor smoothing (sealing) the end caps was a mixed bag. The seals worked fine. The acetone vapor sealing didn't work completely and again the water in the ballast tank weeped out the end caps - different spot this time. In addition the pressure in the ballast tank was sufficient to continue pushing water out of the end caps. Time to move on to resin printed end caps and repeat the test..
          May end up adding a bit of ballast weight and using less of the volume in the ballast tank to keep pressure down.


          In the photo the top cylinder is the WTC for receiver and speed controllers. The bottom cylinder is the Ballast tank.

          Making any more sense?
          Attached Files

          Comment

          • Subculture
            Admiral

            • Feb 2009
            • 2329

            #6
            I think I would need to know a few more details about the ballast system. Are you pumping water into a sealed ballast tank, or compressing the air inside the watertight compartment(s). 147psi is a lot of pressure, it's best to keep pressure low if you can.

            Comment

            • Scott T
              Commander

              • May 2009
              • 394

              #7
              What if you apply a thin coat of RTV to the inside surface of the ballast tank end caps?

              Comment

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