The Trumpeter Kilo

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  • Kazzer
    *********
    • Aug 2008
    • 2850

    #1

    The Trumpeter Kilo

    A dialog between The Wizard and The Witch

    Ok! Mr. Wizard!

    You harped on about the Trumpeter Kilo and twisted my arm to buy a bunch of models. Compared to the Revell Gato and the Trumpeter Sea wolf, sales are sluggish? Why is that Smarty Pants?



    It was a good idea then and it remains a good idea now to stock these things, Mr. Caswell. It's just that those customers of yours don't know its a good product yet -- hence this little dog-and-pony show I'm compelled to put on to show off what one of these things looks like converted to r/c.

    I still maintain that this little plastic model kit is just about perfect as the 'minimum investment' for anyone wanting a fully functional, statically diving r/c model submarine: The length of the model, coming in at around twenty-some-inches overall, turns out to be just long enough to cram in a two-inch diameter SubDriver with all the devices needed to achieve control of the rudder, stern planes, bow planes, throttle, and ballast sub-system (with the availability of the little Caswell Inc. LPB you can even snorkel this thing to the surface, saving the on-board gas supply for emergency use only).




    Now, with the availability of our KILO fittings kit, it's a snap to reconfigure this static display, plastic model kit to accept our KILO SD and make it fully operational. The above shot of an assembled Trumpeter 1/144 KILO (painted dark gray, yet to be painted and weathered) sitting next to the contents of our fittings kit should illustrate. We've corrected some of the dimensional errors of the kit as well as made provisions for its conversion to r/c. We even provide practical propellers for each of the two main variants of the class (Project 877 and 636) -- giving the end-user his choice as to which type KILO to represent: export or domestic.



    The Trumpeter 1/144 KILO plastic model kit is still on the market, retails for about thirty-bucks, and assembles with the upper deck already split at the waterline -- right were we want it broken in order to gain access to its interior for SubDriver (SD) installation/removal/adjustment/repair. It's like Trumpeter had conversion to r/c in mind when they engineered this fine little sub kit.

    The small size of the model, coupled with its very tight turning radius in the water, permits its use in the smallest pool.



    The KILO SubDriver (SD) though small contains a factory installed and tested gas type ballast sub-system; a forward dry space for the recommended Lithium-polymer battery and mission switch; and an after dry space that comes with the motor, and four servos installed and tested. Additionally, the SD is delivered to the customer with an MTronics ESC installed and tested. With our KILO SD all the end-user has to do is buy the battery, ADF, r/c system (WFly transmitter and Sombra receiver), LPB, LPB switch, Lipo-guard, a can of air-brush propellant, miniature toggle-switch and watertight boot, and he's good to go. We even provide the plumbing fixtures to facilitate hook-up to the optional LPB hoses and motor-compressor unit.

    As mentioned, the motor is factory installed. It's a direct-drive, 240 size, spark-suppressed motor. The motor shaft and pushrods all pass through watertight seals, all which are tested for water tight integrity.

    With all the virtues the little Trumpeter 1/144 KILO kit has, it's being so easily converted over to r/c with minimal cash outlay by the end user, it simply amazes me that these things have not been more popular.

    So, why aren't they scooping them off your shelf, Mike? I blame you .... poor marketing! I don't think these guys know we have this product in the catalog, ready for assembly and enjoyment. What the hell's going on over there at the New York plant?



    And don't forget, no cussin' on this site, or your avatar with the pink panties on your 'orrible carcass will be back.

    Too late, pal. Anyway, if the forums 'nice police' spent as much effort advancing the state-of-the-art within this hobby as they do counting cuss-words issued by posters at their site a lot more constructive things would be happening.

    The trouble with these forums is that they fixate on attainment of quantity, not quality. Blah! Blah! Blah!Blah! Blah! Blah!Blah! Blah! Blah!Blah! Blah! Blah!

    I'll slip those pink panties back on now, Mike. No sweat.


    It's a neat boat, or is it just too small?
    Neat. Yes, I think so. Too small? The little Revel 1/280 SKIPJACK is 'too small'. Not the 1/144 KILO. I've been running the hell out of mine at the local scuba training pool -- it's a rock-solid, reliable, maneuverable little package. I love the thing.

    The SubDriver for the 1/144 KILO is a purpose built unit. A neat feature is that the upper hull half of the KILO model secures to the top of the SD, not the lower half of the hull, making the SD a truly homogenous element of the vehicle.


    Why aren't those Europeans buying 'em? Is there a shortage of swimming pools over there? (Why am I asking you that? Of course there is!)

    The KILO model, out of the box, has its shortcoming and I corrected those I could with our fittings kit to improve the scale appearance of the display. Maybe them foreigner's are sticking their noses up at the kit because they don't know we offer fixes to make it a better looking display?

    As to the European pool issue: Decorum forbids my commenting on that, Mike. Maybe Andy and the other guys from that side of the world would like to take issue with your horribly raciest/nationalistic/homophobic/hate-mongering suggestion that them European's don't know how to use fresh water, Mike. Just leave me outa it, pal. What's wrong with you?!....


    Is the model itself too much of a challenge for most model makers?
    I'm a Model Maker. Most of our customers are kit-assemblers, not 'model makers', Mike.

    Oh! Dear! I shouldn't have mentioned 'model maker'.

    Anyway ...

    ... Assembling the Trumpeter KILO kit presents no special 'challenges' to the average glue-jockey; I've made it simple for 'em by developing and producing the KILO fittings kit and KILO SubDriver. With those items in hand -- along with the other items suggested in your catalog -- the customer can assemble the KILO into a nice r/c sub.

    Pictured are just some of the tools, jigs, and holding fixtures I've developed and use to make up the KILO fittings kits and SD's -- I've tackled the hard stuff so the kit-assemblers won't have to; when the product goes out the door of the massive D&E Miniatures Industrial Complex it's ready for assembly.

    The fittings kit provides replacement/supplemental parts to get the kit operational.

    Out of the box Trumpeter KILO kit shortcomings include: The bow planes are way out of scale; the propeller (two versions provided in the kit, but neither anywhere close to looking like what is seen on prototype boats) are impractical; and some of the masts that come with the plastic kit are not even close to what projects out the top of the sail on the real boats. These and other problems are corrected by use of replacement parts found in the D&E Miniatures fittings kit offered by Caswell Inc.





    I conducted practical tests of 636 and 877 propellers (each type represented by a 'high and a 'low' pitch unit). Of course that meant making four masters, four tools, and four evaluation propellers. The best match for the direct-drive motor (no water-cooling needed, Dave ... sorry) was found to be the low-pitch propellers -- so those are the ones we provide with the fittings kit.

    The fittings kit has one of each type propeller, so the end-user has a choice of type KILO he builds, domestic or export version. Pictured are three of the four propeller masters made in support of the project. Note that these are near dead-rings for the actual KILO propellers, not at all like those POS units provided by Trumpeter.




    Whats wrong with the finger? I feel a workers comp claim coming on!

    Wayne Frey was a big help providing me with documentation and guidance on where to find the information I needed to make the fittings kit parts as faithful to the prototypes as possible. Pictured are Renshape masters of the vortex attenuator's, rudder, stern planes and horizontal stabilizer.

    If you're interested, the four propeller masters were assembled from cast metal blades mounted to Renshape hubs. These masters were later used to create the rubber tools needed to cast the white-metal and resin pieces of the fittings kit.



    A 1/144 Trumpeter KILO model kit outfitted with our fittings kit items and KILO SD. Addition of the fittings kit items turns this otherwise flawed static display model into an attractive r/c model submarine.

    How long would it take Mr. Average to built the model?

    Hell, I don't know. Don't ask me stupid questions! How long will it take Mr. Average? .... all depends if he can tear himself away from the computer keyboards long enough to get any real work done, doesn't it?!.... Guy's with dial-up modems get more work done. Does that answer?



    If you put two-hours a night into it about two weeks time is what it takes to assemble, paint, outfit the SD, trim, and learn how to drive the KILO.



    Just some of the alterations needed to get the Trumpeter KILO kit up to a more accurate representation of the prototype, in this case a Project 877 KILO.

    Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!
  • Outrider
    Commander
    • Aug 2008
    • 304

    #2
    The virtues of this kit are captured well in the post above. You can add to that there's some pretty good information posted on the site in various places that make it easier to assemble the kit. I'm going to try to collect this up as I think this may help newbies have more positive experiences if they spend less time looking for answers and more time on their kits and at the controls. I will, of course, share what I find.

    What could be better? My son is stuck at trimming his Kilo. The experienced among you know how critical trim is, but may forget how much of a challenge it is to keep a sub upright (not much inherent roll stability in subs) and on an even keel. He'll play with it for a while, get frustrated, and walk away when it lists or pitches.

    Caswell has pre-formed foam and weights for the 1:72 Revell Type VII, which will help anybody with that sub. It would, I think, be good to offer similar parts for the Kilo.

    For long term use, I think snort is a no-brainer. I'll need to check on the mini-snort integration for this kit. My recollection is that the driver is suited for use with snort, but it's not included. I suspect anything that minimizes the use of Propel would be welcome, since that would keep operational costs down.

    Comment

    • He Who Shall Not Be Named
      Moderator

      • Aug 2008
      • 13393

      #3
      Originally posted by Outrider
      The virtues of this kit are captured well in the post above. You can add to that there's some pretty good information posted on the site in various places that make it easier to assemble the kit. I'm going to try to collect this up as I think this may help newbies have more positive experiences if they spend less time looking for answers and more time on their kits and at the controls. I will, of course, share what I find.

      What could be better? My son is stuck at trimming his Kilo. The experienced among you know how critical trim is, but may forget how much of a challenge it is to keep a sub upright (not much inherent roll stability in subs) and on an even keel. He'll play with it for a while, get frustrated, and walk away when it lists or pitches.

      Caswell has pre-formed foam and weights for the 1:72 Revell Type VII, which will help anybody with that sub. It would, I think, be good to offer similar parts for the Kilo.

      For long term use, I think snort is a no-brainer. I'll need to check on the mini-snort integration for this kit. My recollection is that the driver is suited for use with snort, but it's not included. I suspect anything that minimizes the use of Propel would be welcome, since that would keep operational costs down.

      Yes, the KILO SD has space and fittings for the LPB. I have five complete RTR KILO's here and each one is equipped with the LPB and the mini-switch Kevin McLeod developed for us.

      David,
      Attached Files
      Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 07-12-2009, 09:49 AM.
      Who is John Galt?

      Comment

      • Outrider
        Commander
        • Aug 2008
        • 304

        #4
        My subdriver looks like the one in your fourth photo (cream colored resin caps) and doesn't have the fiitings that appear in the first two photos. I'd be glad to buy the pump, but I think it wouldn't do me much good without the cast in plumbing.

        I see from the Caswell site that all new Kilo subdrivers are snort ready--that's a great running change to an already excellent product.

        Jim

        Comment

        • redboat219
          Admiral

          • Dec 2008
          • 3378

          #5
          Notice the snort pump in the 3rd picture is hooked up to a BH model's ES-1 switch. How does it compare with Kevin's MPC?
          Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

          Comment

          • He Who Shall Not Be Named
            Moderator

            • Aug 2008
            • 13393

            #6
            Originally posted by redboat219
            Notice the snort pump in the 3rd picture is hooked up to a BH model's ES-1 switch. How does it compare with Kevin's MPC?
            Actually, using the BH, ES-1 switch is a miss-use of that product -- but was the only recourse till Kevin's much more practical and job-suited electronic switch came around. The ES-1 is much more suited to high-current, on-off jobs than to drive the little LPB motor pictured.

            Kevin's switch has a much, much smaller foot-print and is dirt simple to install and set-up.

            David,
            Who is John Galt?

            Comment

            • plastic66
              Lieutenant, Junior Grade
              • Jun 2009
              • 29

              #7
              I too have the Kilo kit and Subdriver. My SD has the cream colored resin end caps and no fittings for a snort sysyetm.

              So let me pose a few questions:

              *Would it be best to put in a Snort in my Kilo for better/easier prefromance?

              *If so, would I have to buy the Snort fittings kit and drill 2 holes in the aft end of the SD to install the Snort?

              Comment

              • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                Moderator

                • Aug 2008
                • 13393

                #8
                Originally posted by plastic66
                I too have the Kilo kit and Subdriver. My SD has the cream colored resin end caps and no fittings for a snort sysyetm.

                So let me pose a few questions:

                *Would it be best to put in a Snort in my Kilo for better/easier prefromance?

                *If so, would I have to buy the Snort fittings kit and drill 2 holes in the aft end of the SD to install the Snort?

                That's pretty much it, yes.

                David,
                Who is John Galt?

                Comment

                • plastic66
                  Lieutenant, Junior Grade
                  • Jun 2009
                  • 29

                  #9
                  Dave,

                  I am looking the aft end of my Kilo SD, and there seems no room for the 3/32" brass tubing to fit for the snort. And if there was, I don't see how a snort cast resin would fit there.

                  My three push rods are all the way at the top of the cast aft cap, then there is the motor shaft. Which leaves no room for a cast part. So I don't see how a fitting could go there. Maybe the brass tubing can go between the push rods? Then have the gray pipeing come out and bend up and on top of the SD?

                  Please help me understand how the snort system/casting will go.

                  Comment

                  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                    Moderator

                    • Aug 2008
                    • 13393

                    #10
                    Originally posted by plastic66
                    Dave,

                    I am looking the aft end of my Kilo SD, and there seems no room for the 3/32" brass tubing to fit for the snort. And if there was, I don't see how a snort cast resin would fit there.

                    My three push rods are all the way at the top of the cast aft cap, then there is the motor shaft. Which leaves no room for a cast part. So I don't see how a fitting could go there. Maybe the brass tubing can go between the push rods? Then have the gray pipeing come out and bend up and on top of the SD?

                    Please help me understand how the snort system/casting will go.
                    Current models of the motor bulkhead are cast with holes (you guessed right --
                    between the middle pushrod seal) for the LPB nipples. You'll have to drill your own as yours is an early model of the KILO SubDriver.

                    David,
                    Who is John Galt?

                    Comment

                    • plastic66
                      Lieutenant, Junior Grade
                      • Jun 2009
                      • 29

                      #11
                      Thank you Dave, that's what I thought. I'll drill two 3/32" holes between the push rods.

                      Then is there a fitting that goes on this end or do I just bend the gray piping over and put a hole into the SD in the gas chamaber?

                      And is there a cast part that I can get that will be glued onto the top of the SD?

                      Comment

                      • Outrider
                        Commander
                        • Aug 2008
                        • 304

                        #12
                        David posted this photo that shows two exterior fittings for a LPB (or snort) system. I think they're for a Type VII, but seem suited to other uses. David and Mike can comment on availability and pricing.
                        Attached Files

                        Comment

                        • redboat219
                          Admiral

                          • Dec 2008
                          • 3378

                          #13
                          Originally posted by plastic66
                          Dave,

                          I am looking the aft end of my Kilo SD, and there seems no room for the 3/32" brass tubing to fit for the snort.

                          My three push rods are all the way at the top of the cast aft cap, then there is the motor shaft. Which leaves no room for a cast part. So I don't see how a fitting could go there.
                          Here you go plastic66. Hope this helps
                          Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                          Comment

                          • KevinMc
                            Commander
                            • Feb 2009
                            • 305

                            #14
                            I wound up retro'ing LPB fittings on my SD long before the fittings kit was available, here's how I did it...

                            This is the "dry" side of things and hose-routing from the motor bulkhead to the LPB. Note that I decided to install my LPB under the receiver tray so it worked to my advantage to also punch the fittings through the bulkhead on its lower side.



                            Here's the "wet" side of the bulkhead. The down side of installing the LPB fittings on the lower part of the motor bulkhead is that the connected hoses need to be routed up to the top of the SD where they'll connect to the snorkel and ballast tank fitting, but I figured I'd have more room for this kind of routing on the outside of the SD than on the inside. I pre-bent the tubes where they come out of the bulkhead to help get the hoses running in the right direction. Notice the use of short sections of small diameter silicone "fuel" tubing. These act like "quick-connects" and make removing the motor bulkhead a sinch. Also notice the 90deg elbows made out of aluminum tubing so I wouldn't have to worry about the softer tubing developping any kinks while negotiating the tight bend around the top of the motor bulkhead.


                            Lastly here's the top side. It's no where near as elegant as the cast fittings that David makes, but it's functional. (Not to mention the fact that it was completed in the hotel room in Carmel last year the day before the regatta!)


                            Your mileage may vary...
                            Kevin McLeod - Oscar II driver
                            KMc Designs

                            Comment

                            • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                              Moderator

                              • Aug 2008
                              • 13393

                              #15
                              Well done, Kevin. You put your LPB right where I put mine -- great minds think alike.

                              David,
                              Who is John Galt?

                              Comment

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