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  • SteveJ
    Lieutenant
    • Aug 2008
    • 56

    #16
    Thanks Mike

    I was looking at the cardboard too.

    Steve

    Comment

    • redboat219
      Admiral

      • Dec 2008
      • 3381

      #17
      You could also try Coroplast. Since it's colored plastic there's no need to paint or waterproof it afterwards:wink:
      Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

      Comment

      • Kazzer
        *********
        • Aug 2008
        • 2850

        #18
        Originally posted by redboat219
        You could also try Coroplast. Since it's colored plastic there's no need to paint or waterproof it afterwards:wink:

        How would you glue it? Is it a thermoplastic which would therefore melt with a solvent?
        Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

        Comment

        • redboat219
          Admiral

          • Dec 2008
          • 3381

          #19
          Originally posted by kazzer
          How would you glue it?
          Coroplast is made of Polypropylene which is great for many uses due to the fact that it is resistant to chemicals; unfortunately the same properties make it difficult to bond using chemical bonding agents.

          How about using either good old zip ties, duct tape or pop rivets:wink:
          Last edited by redboat219; 06-05-2009, 11:34 AM.
          Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

          Comment

          • sunworksco
            Lieutenant, Junior Grade
            • Apr 2009
            • 25

            #20
            Safe Box

            You can locate a professional foam supplier with a cnc machine for cutting foam.Lots of these are unemployed in Detroit now.We have one in Sacramento,Ca.
            Then locate someone who uses a www.nextengine.com scanner and scan the vessel in sections then use that file for the cnc machining of the foam material.This would of course be the negative of the vessel and in two pieces with the hinged lid being only 25% of the overall heigth.Then have a custom pickup bed spray-lining company spray the two pieces,inside and out, with the durable rubber coating and you have a very long-lasting,water-proof container.You can finish the inside with a sprayable fuzzy material or simply spray 3-M rubber cement and dust it with your own fuzzy preference.I have made other products using this method with great results.

            Comment

            • Kazzer
              *********
              • Aug 2008
              • 2850

              #21
              My Revell Skipjack Box

              Seeing as my model (prototype from Merriman) didn't have a box, I decided to make one. I had some oak slats from a concertina door laying around, and they looked perfect for the job.

              I wanted to make it so the box became the display stand, and made the base a two tier affair. This allowed the box lid to fit exactly over the base.

              A few bits of pink foam carved to fit, then glued into place with a dab of RTV, will hold the boat in position.
              I intend to use two screws on the ends, screwing the lid onto the base.
              Attached Files
              Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

              Comment

              • redboat219
                Admiral

                • Dec 2008
                • 3381

                #22
                That's one heavy looking box. No vent holes?
                Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                Comment

                • Kazzer
                  *********
                  • Aug 2008
                  • 2850

                  #23
                  Originally posted by redboat219
                  That's one heavy looking box. No vent holes?
                  Yep it's 3/8" strips and with the model inside weighs 2lbs 4 oz. I'll drill some vent holes when the glue is dry.
                  Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

                  Comment

                  • redboat219
                    Admiral

                    • Dec 2008
                    • 3381

                    #24
                    Why not fix a couple of threaded rods at each end the base. You can then slip the cover over them then secure it with using wing nuts.
                    Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

                    Comment

                    • Kazzer
                      *********
                      • Aug 2008
                      • 2850

                      #25
                      Here is another shot of the finished box. (No varnish applied yet) I've placed a one cent coin and a Quarter alongside to give you a perspective of how small this boat is.

                      I want to briefly discuss the problems I see with making boxes for submarines. My main concern is 'kinetic energy' (the energy of motion) contained within the actual model when the model and box are set in motion.

                      Lets do some homework first. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kinetic_energy
                      When we place a submarine in it's box, we now have TWO objects that are put into motion when they are moved. If the outer object (the box) suddenly stops, the inner object (the sub) still has it's kinetic energy and, unless rigidly secured to the box, will carry on until it crashes into the end of the box.

                      The straps, foam, pillars and screws holding that boat in place have to be strong enough to withstand the entire weight of the boat traveling at speed. The box has to also have sufficient padding to absorb the weight and or spread the load of the model entirely. Strapping a boat in place with a few bits of foam will result in the kinetic energy being built up in the boat, wrenching it free and crashing it headlong into the box end.

                      You could think that wrapping the Submarine box in padding and placing it inside a cardboard box would solve all the problems, but if that sub were loosely fitting and had weak straps, when the box stopped suddenly (hit the ground etc.) the submarine would move inside the box and be damaged.

                      To make the model safe, it has to be thoroughly strapped in to ensure it does not slide about; having a sloppy fit inside its box is probably the worst thing you could do to your boat.
                      Attached Files
                      Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

                      Comment

                      • Kazzer
                        *********
                        • Aug 2008
                        • 2850

                        #26
                        Lets revamp the box problem.

                        I am talking to a box manufacturer who can make a custom box from plywood, to our spec. as long as I order in quantity.

                        The problem is that we have so many sizes of boat. The company suggested placing a foam insert in an oversized box, that has 'cookie cutter' removable parts, so that a variety of models can use the same outer box.

                        In the case of the smaller models, perhaps two boats could fit into one box ie: a trumpeter Kilo and Seawolf could fit inside on larger box, or maybe a Revell Gato could replace those two?

                        So, what sized boxes do you think would be viable?
                        Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

                        Comment

                        • pjdog
                          Commander
                          • Apr 2009
                          • 302

                          #27
                          Definitely Gato size. I would like a type VII size also. That would fill my needs. I would buy both.

                          Jack

                          Comment

                          • SteveJ
                            Lieutenant
                            • Aug 2008
                            • 56

                            #28
                            Gato size in length but wide enough for the Seaview.

                            Steve

                            Comment

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