Would using the brass conduit as a conductor count?
ballast tank equipped 1.25" SubDriver now in production
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How's that KILO of yours coming along? Have you finished ONE r/c model submarine yet?
I'm inclined to listen to guy's who've been around the block a few times. Tom and Myron for example.
I am not going to listen to guys who spend an inordinate amount of their free time pounding a key-board, no matter their 'schooling'.
So, pay your dues, complete ONE r/c model submarine and get it running. Then I'll entertain your 'ideas'. I'll spoon-feed anyone interested in this game. But if they can't produce after five years, I cut their ass loose and move on to the next candidate.
Over here, redboat, you are on double-secret probation (with me at least).
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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David
I can be blind (actually, i do have only one good working eye for real), but i only see a total of five wires running through the conduit, so what's the trouble about?, with the 212 i crammed so much wires in the conduit, that air had a difficult time to get through, enlighten me, please.
Manfred.I went undergroundComment
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David and Myron,
Here is a drawing from Scott Trosper, he could not upload the photo. Here are his thoughts in a image:
My suggestion, the brass conduit will hold power from the battery, so it just needs a male and female end to correspond to the original sub-driver sections (think extension) and a splice for the pump power. The conduit would need a servo extension installed to control the pump.If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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David
I can be blind (actually, i do have only one good working eye for real), but i only see a total of five wires running through the conduit, so what's the trouble about?, with the 212 i crammed so much wires in the conduit, that air had a difficult time to get through, enlighten me, please.
Manfred.
Half-blind and you turn out such work? Thanks for making me feel like a mental-defective.
I dismiss your accomplishment by simply saying you're a crazy man. To this day, studying your work, I still have a hard time seeing where everything goes and what it does. Your stuff is Heisenberg crazy; your work transcends Newtonian physics. Just what dimension have you jumped here from, anyway?
I hate you.
On a more serious note:
I'm using the standard servo lead gauge wire. I could go to the very small stuff for the servos. And maybe even two gauge size lower for the two power cables (I can almost see Andy cringe at that comment). But I try not to get too radical with my design here. After all, this is for general application -- I don't want to burden the eventual end-user by making him graft in non-standard wiring and such. Gotta keep this as generic (store bought, without modification) as possible.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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Half-blind and you turn out such work? Thanks for making me feel like a mental-defective.
I dismiss your accomplishment by simply saying you're a crazy man. To this day, studying your work, I still have a hard time seeing where everything goes and what it does. Your stuff is Heisenberg crazy; your work transcends Newtonian physics. Just what dimension have you jumped here from, anyway?
I hate you.
So, if i understand right, you simplyfied your design to this point, in my opinion less will give trouble, for now it's clear which wire is used for what, don't over-engineer things, keep it simple.
Manfred.I went undergroundComment
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David, believe me, it's all inside the brain, just ask, talking about dimension, the world is flat to me for my entire live, no 3D.
So, if i understand right, you simplyfied your design to this point, in my opinion less will give trouble, for now it's clear which wire is used for what, don't over-engineer things, keep it simple.
Manfred.
To be serious for a moment. I agree with you. Reduce the problem to the simplest of things that still works to a resolution. You and I are free-range practical mechanics with good hands; we're plodders.
KISS serves us well. The Eureka moments are for the Sheldon Cooper's of the world (God bless those Brainiac's -- one day they'll give us a sustained fusion reactor).
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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Very nice graphic by the way.
I'm skeptical about Scott Trosper's external run of servo and power leads. No problem with the power, but Kevin Rimrodt and I, years ago, tried running servo wires in the wet and the servos went nuts, even when we made absolute sure there was no water getting at the plugs. Not sure why, but we found the arrangement unworkable. Other than this observation, what Scott presents is a 'thinking-outside-the-box' exercise and an arrangement I had not considered.
Good stuff.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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You would not need to de solder anything. The power end with the split cable, that can hold mini deans plugs or jst, wired identical so you could plug battery to either cable or pump power (ESC) to either cable, one or both. So when the ballast tank is not going to be used, the power connector on the servo side will still plug into the battery pack. So no soldering, you just plug the new module in and you are off and running.Last edited by trout; 12-16-2014, 01:51 AM.If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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Sorry for the late reply, computer problem! I actually have no desire to have the sub-driver as a dynamic diver, I already have one in the little Skipjack! I am referring to static diving only. I'm asking if David could make a bulkhead with 2 O-rings so that different length ballast tanks could be installed? This would mean that the sub-driver would have 3 seperate sections of lexan instead of 2. Tom and Manfred seem to have solved the probem of different lengths of wire for the different length ballast tanks.Comment
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Just found this thread. Wow. Nice work, Dave. Seriously.
Having said that, you are all masochists of the highest order. Why would anyone want a boat this small :)? My fingers ache just looking at this stuff and my eyeballs are twitching, too.
I suppose it would be fun running in your kitchen sink or perhaps your toilet bowl, but c'mon...
Bob
Big sub lover...Comment
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Just found this thread. Wow. Nice work, Dave. Seriously.
Having said that, you are all masochists of the highest order. Why would anyone want a boat this small :)? My fingers ache just looking at this stuff and my eyeballs are twitching, too.
I suppose it would be fun running in your kitchen sink or perhaps your toilet bowl, but c'mon...
Bob
Big sub lover...
I don't hold a candle to your obsessively, crazy pursuit of detail in miniature. I'm the Gigantor to your Tom Thumb; the solar system to your atom; the ham-handed, drooling idiot to your craftsman ...
You not only deck out the wheelhouse, but you also slap down some tools and chart over the Navigators station on that Disney NAUTILUS.
Maniac!
Harrumph! And I hate you too, pal. The list is growing exponentially.
You people!
MLast edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 12-16-2014, 07:48 PM.Who is John Galt?Comment
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I read through this thread on the 1.25" OD subdriver with ballast tank. I saw your YouTube video and read your comments regarding a Trumpeter 1/144 scale Gato build using this subdriver (although crazygary opted against the ballast tank). I've tried going to www.sub-driver.com, but it forwards me to a website for mud-skipper. The Nautilus Drydocks shows a 1.25" sub-driver, but it is single shaft and doesn't include the ballast tank.
Do you know if a twin shaft 1.25" subdriver with ballast tank is still available? Are all the sub-drivers sold through Nautilus Drydocks now?
V/r
BrianComment
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Direct from the horse's mouth:
The 1.25" SD single-and dual-shaft motor bulkhead is the same unit. The difference is the provided astern-gear and shaft. I now provide the motor-bulkhead with the astern-gear-shaft with all 1.25" SD's.
Yes, all Dave's superb products are available through the Drydocks.
BobComment
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