Bronco Type XXIII in 1/35th scale
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Below is a leaked photo that was taken recently, at Arizoniawerft, showing two Typ XXIII hulls suspended by cables from some sort of heavy lifting crane rig..
There is apparently some sort of U-Boat construction activity going on in AZ.. It is unknown, at this time, as to when these boats will be completed, or where they will end up patrolling..
Two sinister looking sisters, hanging in waiting.. I wouldn't want to be on any of the ships that encounter these bad-ass, beyotches at sea..
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David,
I also sent you an email from the site. Not sure if you got it. Can you please contact me via email?
Thank you,
CharlesLeave a comment:
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Sir, i'm outraged!!!!, outraged!!! i say to you, this is clearly a act to sabotage me for getting in the water first, LOL
On the other hand i got some more time to prep up my next generation launchtubes, as you know i've got allready a working protoype, have to rebuild those styrene tubes to accept the new arrangement, it will take a few weeks to get this done.
That depression, is that the result of cutting her on the waterline?, checked up mine, but she is as straight as a arrow, have to take account for that if it's happening to me also.
I'll have to see about the non center of the drive shaft, i'll probably end up with lowering the SD, sliding in the SD does create some problems, but you warned me for that, love the challenge to make it work.
Manfred.Leave a comment:
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As I mentioned, there is a decided 'pinch' mid-hull. I elected to build up this depression and get the hull to a more uniform 'double-cylinder' form. I did this with a two-part Bondo-like automotive filler, followed by a scratch-fill with Nitro-Stan air-dry touch-up putty, which was sanded down, and the first of many primer coats applied with the air-brush.
Sure, I clobbered the raised weld lines. So what? They're over-stated anyway. Not sure if I'm going to rub them all off or not. If I want to retain them I'll re-build the ones lost during the filing and sanding with CA. We'll see.
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David-
I sent you an email from this site; not sure if you received it, but one of the questions I was asking was whether or not your system for this boat would allow space for torpedoes. Nice to see that you're making accommodations for it. I always thought this platform (whether 1/35. like this, or 1/24 like my other one from Bob) would be awesome for shooting torpedoes.Leave a comment:
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David-
I sent you an email from this site; not sure if you received it, but one of the questions I was asking was whether or not your system for this boat would allow space for torpedoes. Nice to see that you're making accommodations for it. I always thought this platform (whether 1/35. like this, or 1/24 like my other one from Bob) would be awesome for shooting torpedoes.Leave a comment:
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David,
I recalculated your ballasttank to metric, the volume will be about 400 ml for my XXIII, just because i want to add some items, thanks for calculating.
Looking at the drawing you made, why did you place your motor out of center?, is that because of stability, or it it because the single motor bulkhead has it at that position?
Boy, you're going fast, which is good for my, this way i can steal your idea's, keep on going!!!!!!!, and don't forget the pictures.
Manfred.
Yeah, 400ml is about 14 ounces -- that's what I'm putting into the Type-23 Sub-driver. That coupled with a shorter battery space (forward dry space), will make a SD short enough to permit installation of a weapon system. Mike has been bugging me for a large caliber torpedo since we first met. This should make his day!
That motor bulkhead has within it the 3:1 gearing, which offsets the drive output from centerline a bit. Should have put the motor low and put the output at centerline. I did that tooling about 20 years ago, and I must have had my head up my ass at the time. But, the angular displacement of the intermediate drive shaft is not too severe if it's long enough. Which is the case here, about eight-degrees, so no big whoop. The recently completed 3" motor-bulkheads have the motors slung low so the outputs are at centerline -- better late than never.
Yeah, I'm whizzing through this -- I need to wrap this fittings kit and SD up so I can get back to the production work (I see Mike in the distance practicing his whip-snapping). No rest for the Devil!
DavidLeave a comment:
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David,
I recalculated your ballasttank to metric, the volume will be about 400 ml for my XXIII, just because i want to add some items, thanks for calculating.
Looking at the drawing you made, why did you place your motor out of center?, is that because of stability, or it it because the single motor bulkhead has it at that position?
Boy, you're going fast, which is good for my, this way i can steal your idea's, keep on going!!!!!!!, and don't forget the pictures.
Manfred.Leave a comment:
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The removal of the upper hull from the lower hull lost about a 1/16" of kerf from the horizontal cut (the diamond wheel) and that material had to be made up. The radial cuts atop the hull were done with a razor saw and no significant kerf resulted.
To make up material lost to the diamond wheel I elected to weld 1/16" thick strips of polystyrene to the lower hull horizontal edges as make-up material. I took advantage of this build-up to provide a straight-edge that will guide me as I build up two-part filler to the sides of the hull to recontour away from the bowed-in situation that occurs where the forward and after quarters of the hull are stuck together -- that's why the center strips are wider than the others.
When the glue dries I'll take a long sanding block and establish a straight line on the outside and inside of the edge and where it overlaps the hull I apply filler. Simple!
I also worked up an internal bulkhead template. This will be used to give shape to the SD foundation masters as well as guide be as I work out SD placement within the hull.
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Bingo, Romel. Well done. Now ... finish your KILO!Leave a comment:
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How about using a toothed belt drive? I managed to salvage a toothed belt with corresponding pinion from an old printer I took apart. I guess you could use ones from RC cars.Leave a comment:
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I split the hull at the waterline.
While I was at it I got an idea of how much water the above waterline structures displace. About ten-ounces. With a bit more for safety I need the Type-23's Sub-driver ballast tank sized to hold thirteen-ounces.
The calculation was an easy one: as high-impact polystyrene has a specific gravity pretty close to that of water, all I had to do was weight the topside plastic, add the displacement of the SAS snorkel components and a few other top-side do-dads, and I had the displacement, hence the weight of water needed to pull it all underwater.
Emergency Cancellation, Archimedes!
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David,
Thanks, I'll take a look at that link.
Yes it's the Gordon Lewis/ Norbert Brüggen kit. A lot of people just extend control rods out through the rear part of the hull for both the Kort nozzle and the rear dive planes. Too easy - LOL. I am trying to figure out how to make all the control linkages internal to the hull. I may just hurt myself.
I'm still working on the Sheerline IID kit although the milling process for all the freaking holes is taking way longer than planned but I will finish it by spring 2014 if I can. I've told my model train buddies not to expect anything out of me for at least a year as I have way too many naval projects in the queue.
Glad to be back,
Dan
DanLast edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 03-10-2013, 11:52 PM.Leave a comment:
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