Simple question: How do you attach your control surfaces?

[Schmitty1944]

I have a really simple question. I've been building models a long time, including submarines. One detail I have always struggled with is how to attach resin, plastic, 3D printed etc. Dive planes and Rudders to a shaft (usually brass). The most obvious method is to put superglue on the shaft and quickly slip the control surface over it but it can often end with the glue setting before you get it in the optimal position or the glue gets pushed out of the way as you push the pieces together resulting in little to no bond at all and a blob of glue at the exit point where you probably don't want it.

What methods have worked for you?

Thanks
Jason

[Fishb0y]

Far from an expert, but as I designed the control surfaces on my steampunk Nautilus, I have a cutout for a wheel collar and about 1 inch hole to insert the shaft in the control surface. While the wheel collar is press fit, I do glue it in and still have the ability to lock the shaft in the collar. I can have some photos in a couple days, but I'm out of town right now.

[rwtdiver]

Jason,

I have a method for my 3D printed PLA parts that works very well.

I first lightly file some small grooves (rough up) in the brass rod on the ends that go into the control surfaces. I push the rod into the part and locate the half way point and drill a small hole until you hit the brass rod. I then, with a small tip on my THIN CA put the CA into the hole. This works for me, and I have never had a problem of these parts coming off.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I have a really simple question. I've been building models a long time, including submarines. One detail I have always struggled with is how to attach resin, plastic, 3D printed etc. Dive planes and Rudders to a shaft (usually brass). The most obvious method is to put superglue on the shaft and quickly slip the control surface over it but it can often end with the glue setting before you get it in the optimal position or the glue gets pushed out of the way as you push the pieces together resulting in little to no bond at all and a blob of glue at the exit point where you probably don't want it.

What methods have worked for you?

Thanks
Jason

Interference fit.

David

[Schmitty1944]

Thank you. These are all good suggestions.

1)Wheel collar is great for planes that are large enough to accommodate it. It has the added benefit of being easily removable.

2)Cutting a groove and applying glue through a hole after the parts are together and in position sounds like a good idea. I will try that.

3)Interference fit is what I have usually done and does generally work well enough. I've had occasional troubles with the control surface splitting at the thinnest part where the rod is inserted. This would probably mean the fit is too tight but if the hole is larger the wall gets even thinner and often the fit is too loose and the control plane is easily moved on the shaft.

Thanks
Jason

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thank you. These are all good suggestions.

1)Wheel collar is great for planes that are large enough to accommodate it. It has the added benefit of being easily removable.

2)Cutting a groove and applying glue through a hole after the parts are together and in position sounds like a good idea. I will try that.

3)Interference fit is what I have usually done and does generally work well enough. I've had occasional troubles with the control surface splitting at the thinnest part where the rod is inserted. This would probably mean the fit is too tight but if the hole is larger the wall gets even thinner and often the fit is too loose and the control plane is easily moved on the shaft.

Thanks
Jason

Three means of securing the control surface operating shaft within the bore of a control surface can easily be accomplished in three ways:

First, as mentioned before, is to make it a tight interference fit between operating shaft and the bore within the control surface you wish to make removable. The other control surface has the operating shaft permanently bonded (or cast-in-place as an insert).





Second, is to split the operating shaft between two opposing control surface -- those operating shaft halves permanently set into their respective control surface. The two operating shafts joined securely together within a combined coupler-control horn with the aid of setscrews.





Third -- if the control surface has enough 'meat' on its surface to permit this -- is to secure the operating shaft (a machined flat ground into it) with a setscrew to prevent rotation between operating shaft and control surface.





The control surface setscrews can be hidden by placing them at the leading edge of the control surface, like this.







David

[JHapprich]

This is how i do it, modified setscrew method: drill a threaded hole all through the plane about 1/2 shaft diameter fwd or aft of the shaft instead of going directly on top, so a long setscrew (stainless) will 'bite' into a recesses filed out from the (brass or soft stainless steel) shaft on the frontside or backside ( depends on where the plane is thicker). You cannot overtighten the screw. Secure it with a drop of ca. However you depend on precise drilling. I use a smaller diameter drill bit and do the rest with a round needle file if necessary.

Jörg

[SubSteve]

This is how i do it, modified setscrew method: drill a threaded hole all through the plane about 1/2 shaft diameter fwd or aft of the shaft instead of going directly on top, so a long setscrew (stainless) will 'bite' into a recesses filed out from the (brass or soft stainless steel) shaft on the frontside or backside ( depends on where the plane is thicker). You cannot overtighten the screw. Secure it with a drop of ca. However you depend on precise drilling. I use a smaller diameter drill bit and do the rest with a round needle file if necessary.

Jörg

This is quite a good idea! Combines some best practices from other methods.

[Schmitty1944]

Great information. Thanks for all the responses and especially David for all those photos. Very clever putting the set screw in from the front where it is less visible and has much more depth of material to bite on.

Jason

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

More of this happy hoarse-**** during this afternoon's DiveTribe zoom-meeting (3PM his time). Bob will give a talk on linkages. Don't miss it. Not too late to join -- only ten-bucks, you SLACKERS!

Join here: Dive Tribe Membership | Drydocks (rc-submarine.com)

Do it now!.... NOW, DAMNIT! Don't make me come over there!

David
Head-knocker/Bouncer/Enforcer/Grief Counceller/Arbitrator