Help with a Krick Type VIIB Sub

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  • RCSubGuy
    Welcome to my underwater realm!
    • Aug 2009
    • 1777

    #16
    Glenn,


    I'm with Dave on this. Unfortunately the buy-in to the RC sub game is a ton of experience, knowledge, ingenuity, patience, and basic fabrication skills. I came into this hobby as a newbie, not knowing what the hell I was doing. Through massive trial and error, I made up for what I lacked in those things by sheer force of will and a willingness to take the time to learn from the more knowledgeable in the industry, researching, learning and listening.

    It took me 3 years to build my first boat and get it operational.


    Bob

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    • Subculture
      Admiral
      • Feb 2009
      • 2121

      #17
      If you insist on progressing with the Krick kit, then it might be simplest to set it up as a dynamic diver first, and add the ballast system later on.

      For a basic dynamic diver, you need a single esc for motor control, minimum 20A rating, two servos, and a three (or more ) channel receiver. Have the forward hydroplanes fixed and work the rear planes only. Trim the boat so that the decks are awash, with just the conning tower above water, and it should submerge easily at around a brisk walking speed with deflected hydroplanes..

      If you can get that working reliably and watertight, then you can think about making the forward vanes work, adding a ballast system, and icing on the cake a leveller hooked up to the rear hydroplane servo. You will need five channels for all that.

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      • Glenn2808
        Ensign
        • Sep 2017
        • 4

        #18
        Originally posted by Subculture
        If you insist on progressing with the Krick kit, then it might be simplest to set it up as a dynamic diver first, and add the ballast system later on.

        For a basic dynamic diver, you need a single esc for motor control, minimum 20A rating, two servos, and a three (or more ) channel receiver. Have the forward hydroplanes fixed and work the rear planes only. Trim the boat so that the decks are awash, with just the conning tower above water, and it should submerge easily at around a brisk walking speed with deflected hydroplanes..

        If you can get that working reliably and watertight, then you can think about making the forward vanes work, adding a ballast system, and icing on the cake a leveller hooked up to the rear hydroplane servo. You will need five channels for all that.
        Thank you so much for this reply. This helped me a lot! :-)

        Glenn

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        • Glenn2808
          Ensign
          • Sep 2017
          • 4

          #19
          Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named

          You are asking the most basic of questions. I suspect you don't have much r/c vehicle experience. If that's the case, I tell you now: r/c submarine vehicles are just about the most skill required, expensive, and attention demanding aspect of the r/c vehicle hobby. This is not an entry-level r/c vehicle activity.

          Tell me. What r/c vehicle experience do you have -- not just operating the vehicle, but assembling, making ready, and maintaining said vehicle? As to the confusion introduced by different answers -- that dilemma points to the involved nature of this hobby; no simple, single way to achieve a specific end: Many different ballast water management sub-systems; many forms of propulsion; many different ways to control a submerged submarine underwater; many different means of protecting your investment. The list of alternatives is endless.

          We can't give you good answers till you come up with some viable questions.

          Bottom line: If you can't figure out and make stuff, then this activity is beyond you. R/c cars, boats, and planes are basic 101 level stuff. R/c submarines require a Doctorate.

          May I recommend you take a few months and immerse yourself in the many subjects and threads presented at this site? Educate yourself. And keep your many questions to yourself until you do so, as many of those questions will be resolved as your read and study the material at hand here.

          Glenn. By now your convinced I'm a total ass-hole. And that's true. But I'm also just about the last guy on this planet who will give it to you straight. Either march off in a huff. Or join me in this game -- I'll help, but I won't do your work for you.

          Start reading!

          David
          Thanks for the information :) I have a little experience with building rc cars. I know building a rc submarine is hard and i appreciate all the help i am getting. Thats why i took the cheapest rc sub set in my region. I will learn first a lot more of building before i actually assemble her.

          Best regards, Glenn

          Comment

          • He Who Shall Not Be Named
            Moderator
            • Aug 2008
            • 12315

            #20
            Originally posted by Glenn2808

            Thanks for the information :) I have a little experience with building rc cars. I know building a rc submarine is hard and i appreciate all the help i am getting. Thats why i took the cheapest rc sub set in my region. I will learn first a lot more of building before i actually assemble her.

            Best regards, Glenn
            Good man! You have the right attitude. Plow into all this good info, digest it, formulate relevant questions and we'll get you through this. As you've found with the Krick kit -- cheap ain't the best route to go.

            The best plan for you is the 1/96 BLUEBACK and SD for it. Expext to drop at least $1300.00 on the project. Need oxygen?

            Find the BLUEBACK thread I did and study that. Will give you an overview of what's involved.

            David
            Who is John Galt?

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