Help with a Krick Type VIIB Sub

[ssbn608]

Hello. I am new to the forum and hope to learn a lot and be able to share what knowledge I have with everyone. Mike Caswell suggested I join the forum to see if I can get help with problems I am facing. I am working on a Krick Type VIIB sub. I am at the point of assembling the electronics and am competely baffled by it. I do not know if the parts I have been given are enough, or do I need extras, or have I not even received everything I need. I have included pictures to show what I do have from the kit. For example – I have a 12 volt drive battery. I have a receiver – but no receiver battery. I have a 30 amp drive controller for the motors. Do I need 2? I have a Graupner controller and a Tamiya controller. Which goes where? The Tamiya looks like a piece of junk. Should I have a second Graupner instead? Also – nothing is color coded to say what goes where. Krick left out any information dealing with electronic assembly. All that was offered for assembly of the sub was a schematic with minimal instructions. I have attempted to contact Krick with no success. I have contacted the company where I purchased the kit, and while they are friendly, they offer no support. At this point – everything just seems one huge mess. Can anyone help me so that I can move forward?

Mike Brown
http://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...t=michael2.jpghttp://s52.photobucket.com/albums/g36/ebrow17/?action=view&current=michael5.jpg

[toppack]

Speed-controlers made now usually have a BEC (battery eliminator circuit) that provides 5.volt power to and for the recceiver, then to servos and other devices pluged into the receiver.
So you connect the battery to speed-controller power wires (with one of these thru a fuse, if you want the protection), then everything else gets power from the speed-controller. The switch wired to the speed-controller turns everything off/on, if it can be mounted where you have access to it.
One 30 or 40.Amp speed-controler should be able to handle the current required by 2 of the low current type motors normally used in boats, except for some speed boats that use same high-current motors used in high speed RC cars.
That kit suggest a simple mechanical speed-controller for the pump (which I don't understand), so that may be the other controller you are talking about. Does it look like second picture below? If so, it's a Mechanical-Speed-Controller (3 positions) for the Ballast-Pump.

You may want to check out this forum:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=438557

Krick VIIB:

[Kazzer]

Why don't you take photos of everything you have in this kit, and post them here? We'll pick through it and then let Merriman at it. You'll end up with the best answers that way.

[ssbn608]

KrickType VII

I'll try to post the pictures again - it looks like they didn't come through on the initial post.

Mike



[IMG][/IMG][IMG][IMG]http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g36/ebrow17/michael4copy.jpg[/IMG

[ssbn608]

The rest of the pictures.

[IMG][/IMG]

[toppack]

Yes, the Tamiya controller is for the Pump, but I don't know if it is reliable or not, I never used one.
But I don't understand why it would need a 3-position switch type controller. It seems that an off/on electronic-switch would be better. (Like the ES-1 sold by Caswell)
Maybe when they designed that kit the E-switches were not available?
Or maybe they wanted multiple rates of assent with multiple pump speeds, but not varible speeds (as with a regular speed-control)?

The Graupner controller is for the prop motor, and is a 'battery-eliminator' type to provide power for receiver and servos (including the Tamiya switch). I think it is a 50.Amp unit which should work fine.

[toppack]

To find out more about the Tamiya controller, I would call a hobby shop or someone that knows about it or get on the forum link, in my post above.
It may do more than we think and needs to be used. The circuit board, with 3 wires, attached to switch may have a special purpose that we don't know about. Such as monitoring water depth (using resistance of water) or something. I could probably determine that, if I had one, but can't from the picture.
If so, it may be a simple way to automate the ballast pump system?
Which would be a good thing to have, to conserve battery power and ware on pump/motor (not running motor when pump is dry).
Of course that board may just be resistors and heatsink to reduce motor speed. (which is more likely)

[Deep Diver]

Hi

I may be out of order here, :confused: if you go onto facebook and look at the Association of Model Submariners site, one of the members had done this boat,

(I did help with the development of this boat, when it was under the H.F.M. banner. My boat has now moved on with the help of a good friend, will try and post some photo's.)

[Glenn2808]

Hello, i bought the krick set and dive system. But now i dont know what items i need to buy. Can someone help me please?

Glenn

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hello, i bought the krick set and dive system. But now i dont know what items i need to buy. Can someone help me please?

Glenn

This is an eight-year old thread. Would you bring us up to speed on what you have and just what we can do for you?

David

[Glenn2808]

This is an eight-year old thread. Would you bring us up to speed on what you have and just what we can do for you?

David

Hello, thanks for the reply, i have the krick u boot ttpe vii kit and the drive and dive set. But i am not sure what i need to buy more, like the controller.

Regards Glenn

[Subculture]

My advice would be to either sell what you have and put the money towards a decent kit, or put it to one side and leave it for a later build.

My reasons for that is that the Krivk is a really lousy design, with a flimsy pressure hull. They can be made to work, but the standard of build has to be spot on, and thus IMO not suited to a beginner. I've seen more than one of these unintentionally on the bottom of a pond / lake , and the owners having shelled out a lot of money on the kit and equipment often end up discouraged from continuing in the hobby.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Do you know a good budget rc u boat then?

Very well.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/777-216-Mini-RC-Racing-Submarine-Boat-R-C-Toys-with-40MHz-Transmitter/198890445

There you go. A cheap r/c submarine.

Now, do you want it cheap .... or do want it good? Pick one!

David

[Glenn2808]

Very well.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/777-216-M...tter/198890445

There you go. A cheap r/c submarine.

Now, do you want it cheap .... or do want it good? Pick one!

David

Hello, never mind my last post. But i think i stay with my krick kit. Yet i do not know what i need. I just searched various websites and they all say i need different things to finish it, for example one says i need 2 speed controllers andthe other says i need one.

hope someone can help me out,
Glenn

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Hello, never mind my last post. But i think i stay with my krick kit. Yet i do not know what i need. I just searched various websites and they all say i need different things to finish it, for example one says i need 2 speed controllers and the other a servo etc.

hope someone can help me out,
Glenn

You are asking the most basic of questions. I suspect you don't have much r/c vehicle experience. If that's the case, I tell you now: r/c submarine vehicles are just about the most skill required, expensive, and attention demanding aspect of the r/c vehicle hobby. This is not an entry-level r/c vehicle activity.

Tell me. What r/c vehicle experience do you have -- not just operating the vehicle, but assembling, making ready, and maintaining said vehicle? As to the confusion introduced by different answers -- that dilemma points to the involved nature of this hobby; no simple, single way to achieve a specific end: Many different ballast water management sub-systems; many forms of propulsion; many different ways to control a submerged submarine underwater; many different means of protecting your investment. The list of alternatives is endless.

We can't give you good answers till you come up with some viable questions.

Bottom line: If you can't figure out and make stuff, then this activity is beyond you. R/c cars, boats, and planes are basic 101 level stuff. R/c submarines require a Doctorate.

May I recommend you take a few months and immerse yourself in the many subjects and threads presented at this site? Educate yourself. And keep your many questions to yourself until you do so, as many of those questions will be resolved as your read and study the material at hand here.

Glenn. By now your convinced I'm a total ass-hole. And that's true. But I'm also just about the last guy on this planet who will give it to you straight. Either march off in a huff. Or join me in this game -- I'll help, but I won't do your work for you.

Start reading!

David