ICTINCO ll Submarine Build

[Subculture]

What sort of shaft RPM are you running at?

The prop is large diameter but looks like little in the way of pitch, so you'd probably need a reasonable RPM if you want it to escape its own shadow.

[Bob Gato]

Rob regarding the prop... How about gluing some clear plastic blades between the angled forks- with a little bending of the clear plastic, trial and error and it should be fairly propulsive. ..

[redboat219]

Fill it up with foam. Swap out the prop with a functional one.

[rwtdiver]

This is what I have designed for the upscale ICTINEO ll boat!





The WTC will house model circuitry. The operation of the propulsion system and the rudder operation will be done with a hard wire remote system which I have designed and started to build. The simulated WTC and controls will be mounted inside the stern section of the hull. The wiring will be for the controls will come out the bottom of the stern section to tie into the remote system.

Ounce this is complete I will run and post up a video as to how it all looks and works!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Today I made a decision on the future of the ICTINEO ll scaled up model! After two attempts to get the boat settled into the water, I could see it was a lost cause! The boat was just to heavy and the propulsion system was useless to say the least.

I knew this was going to be an off the wall build. The original STL files where for a cut-a-way (1/2 hull) 20.5" model boat. I used his files, blew them up to a full 36" hull size, and with vertical rather than horizontal hull sections. The gentleman that designed the model (his name is Nico cgtrader) did a great job on STL files. At this point we are taking this boat down a different road!

I will show this in the next post! Building this model as it was designed to be built will make a great model, not only as a model, but educational as well.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Progress report on the Ictineo ll.



The stern section (propulsion and rudder) and the stern section hold downs are complete. Next in line is to complete the WTC and the electronics. As noted before this boat will operate in the water, but the boat itself is exceptionally heavy and with the current (to scale) propulsion system it will most likely not move at all, let alone have any rudder authority. I will certainly settle for that and at least have a scaled up full radio controlled model!



While I am finishing up the scaled up version of the Ictineo ll, I will begin 3D printing (300 parts) the model as it was designed for. A 20.5" long 4.8" high cut-a-way with a fully detailed interior. In my opinion having fully operational scaled up model and the cut-a-way model together will make an interesting display.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Tonight, I finished up the stern section hold downs, reinstalled the drive motor, and installed the rudder and drive chains (2)!




This photo shows the chains installed to the horns temporally. I may move them a little more towards the center.

https://youtu.be/VZ1wMUiFdxE

The video shows the movement I am getting at this point. With a little more adjustment I may even get more. But for as bulky and heavy that this boat is and the weird prop for propulsion, I do not think this boat will be a shaker and a mover in the water! Thats OK! I have achieved what I set out to do to this point. I have more work to do on the WTC and radio system.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

OK! I definitely made a change to the original stern section hold down system!



I installed 3 3D printed tabs and secured them to the main hull, 2 on the side and 1 in the top. I install brass threaded bushing so screws through the hull can be used to secure the stern section! Much cleaner looking and a better securing fit!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

Tonight, I worked on the brass mounting plates that I will be using to mount the stern section of the hull to the main hull!





I used brass screw inserts to secure the brass hold down plate. I first drilled out a hole just shy of the diameter of the brass insert. Then I used my heated soldering to heat up the insert so that it would melt the PLA as I pushed into the hole. This method is extremely effective over the use of CA! Installing the brass hold down plates on the outside will just enhance and blend in with the other hatches that are on this boat.

NOTE: THIS IDEA MAY CHANGE!! AND IT DID!! SEE NEXT POST!!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

"Happy New Year" Everyone!!

Today I finished up the installation of the two MG90 mini servos (water proofed) using mineral oil.



https://youtu.be/NdfoMxsCdEo

The rudder system using two MG90 mini servos and 3D printed chain for the rudder operation is now complete! After lots of trial and error the system that I have works very well and should give the rudder lots of throw. I am now going to move onto the mounting the stern section to the rest of the hull making it removable of course if repairs are required!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

We use to have a cuckoo clock that utilized falling weights to power it. The weights were attached to small chains that went around a sprocket wheel.
If you could get your hands on one these sprockets or 3D print one it would be a good alternative to the servo arms.

Thank you Romel! (Make it simple, make it strong, make it work!) But thank you for the suggestion!

I think this qualifies! https://youtu.be/GDGymBHH_m4

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[redboat219]

We use to have a cuckoo clock that utilized falling weights to power it. The weights were attached to small chains that went around a sprocket wheel.
If you could get your hands on one these sprockets or 3D print one it would be a good alternative to the servo arms.

[rwtdiver]

OK! Romel (redboat219)

I took your advice as for concept. I designed my stern section to allow for your concept! "BINGO"




https://youtu.be/GDGymBHH_m4

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[rwtdiver]

On the outdoor display of the Icteneo the rudder chains pass through a slot in the stern and are actuated inside the hull. You could use a single servo with twin control horns instead of 2. You could put a spring or elastic band between the chain and servo horn to put tension on the chain.

Great idea Romel!

Problem is I do not have the room in the stern section to install the servo as you have drawn! But using the same two mini servos and installing the servo arms to the inside of the stern hull I may be able to accommodate the basic same design! Thanks for the drawing! (Honestly I did not like my design either) :-)) Stand by!!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

[redboat219]

On the outdoor display of the Icteneo the rudder chains pass through a slot in the stern and are actuated inside the hull. You could use a single servo with twin control horns instead of 2. You could put a spring or elastic band between the chain and servo horn to put tension on the chain.