Russian Alfa Class

[Sam Victory]

K-64 Reactor（above）

[Sam Victory]

[rwtdiver]

Sam,

Those are some great photos of the full scale Alfa boat. As I make progress on my rebuild of my Alfa, these photos will help as to some of the detailing work. The photos of the sub in drydock and showing some of the inner structure is very interesting. Plus being able to see some of the historical photos of a boat that you are working on makes it that much more rewarding as the build progresses.

"Russian Alfa Interceptor" That has a ring to it!

Thanks for sharing the photos with us, gives me more enthusiasm and drive to carry on!


Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[Sam Victory]

Sam,

Those are some great photos of the full scale Alfa boat. As I make progress on my rebuild of my Alfa, these photos will help as to some of the detailing work. The photos of the sub in drydock and showing some of the inner structure is very interesting. Plus being able to see some of the historical photos of a boat that you are working on makes it that much more rewarding as the build progresses.

"Russian Alfa Interceptor" That has a ring to it!

Thanks for sharing the photos with us, gives me more enthusiasm and drive to carry on!


Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

My pleasure，sir. I do have a great number of information of Soviet subs during the cold war

[redboat219]

Hey Sam, any info/ photos of the Project 1910 Kashalot ( NATO designation Uniform Class) you can post in a separate thread.

[Sam Victory]

Hey Sam, any info/ photos of the Project 1910 Kashalot ( NATO designation Uniform Class) you can post in a separate thread.

I'm sorry sir, this is the first time I've heard of this submarine and it looks like it was used for a special purpose. This website should help you, it has some information about that submarine.

V

H I Sutton - Covert Shores

[Sam Victory]

[rwtdiver]

Question about shaft size on 1:96 scale boats?

I am assuming that a standard 1/8' brass or stainless steel rod is pretty much the standard size of prop shafts on 1:96 scale boats!? The stern end on my Afa boat is 1/2" dia. and the threaded opening in the brass prop is a 4.25 mm. I will need to come up with a method of attaching the prop to the motor shaft.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

1/8-inch diameter SS rod does it for the smaller 1/96 boats for me. Next size up is 3/16-inch.








David

[rwtdiver]

Thank you, David,

I appreciate the how-to photos. I will go ahead and use the 1/8" oil lite bushing and 1/8" drive shaft. I know we talked about the different ways of attaching the brass prop yesterday on the Dive Tribe, and I will most likely go with the soldering method at this point.

Thanks again, David

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

Normally I would not show off my screw ups! But sometimes lessons learned the hard way should be shared so others do not make the same costly mistakes.





Here is what happened! After hours of prep work installing the bushings in my 3D printed Alfa stern, and then manufacturing the linkage horns on rudders (2) and the dive planes (2) and installing them for the final hook up. I used a very common approach to installing the control surfaces to the linkage rods. Boring a small hole in the control surface and then using thin CA to secure the control surfaces to the linkage shaft.

laying the control surface flat and then putting in one drop of thin CA into the prepared hole. I used a kicker to speed up the process, and thinking the CA had cured, which it did on the surface I pick up the project and went to a vertical position to make sure I had movement! Guess what happened!? Even though the CA had cured at the hole I still had liquid CA on the inside of the shaft that immediately ran down the shaft and into the bushing. Stupid mistake on my part! Well needless to say the control shafts where now glued to the bushings.

Lesson Here: Do not move the control surfaces until you are sure that the CA HAS CURED>

I now have to re-print a new stern section and four control surfaces and start this portion of my build all over again. I hope my lesson will help someone that is using this process on their build.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[redboat219]

Have you tried twisting it free. CA has low shear strength. Was able to remove a Kli-on I CAed by gripping the control rod with a smooth nose plier then twisting the Kli-on off with my fingers.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Normally I would not show off my screw ups! But sometimes lessons learned the hard way should be shared so others do not make the same costly mistakes.





Here is what happened! After hours of prep work installing the bushings in my 3D printed Alfa stern, and then manufacturing the linkage horns on rudders (2) and the dive planes (2) and installing them for the final hook up. I used a very common approach to installing the control surfaces to the linkage rods. Boring a small hole in the control surface and then using thin CA to secure the control surfaces to the linkage shaft.

laying the control surface flat and then putting in one drop of thin CA into the prepared hole. I used a kicker to speed up the process, and thinking the CA had cured, which it did on the surface I pick up the project and went to a vertical position to make sure I had movement! Guess what happened!? Even though the CA had cured at the hole I still had liquid CA on the inside of the shaft that immediately ran down the shaft and into the bushing. Stupid mistake on my part! Well needless to say the control shafts where now glued to the bushings.

Lesson Here: Do not move the control surfaces until you are sure that the CA HAS CURED>

I now have to re-print a new stern section and four control surfaces and start this portion of my build all over again. I hope my lesson will help someone that is using this process on their build.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

The best lessons are the painful ones. I so appreciate those who share the abject failures -- and state the reason why things went asunder. Gory details like Rob's are so, so much more instructive than those posts that illustrate only the Craftsman's stunning successes!

Good on ya, Rob; you're my kind of guy.

So, boy's and girl's: If you're not ****ing things up occasionally, you are simply not trying hard enough!

David

[redboat219]

Rob, would it be possible to print the control surfaces with square holes so you could use square brass tubing for your hinge pin? If not, implant a square tubing in the control surface then use a smaller telescoping brass tube as your pin.

[rwtdiver]

Rob, would it be possible to print the control surfaces with square holes so you could use square brass tubing for your hinge pin? If not, implant a square tubing in the control surface then use a smaller telescoping brass tube as your pin.

Ramel,

That is certainly a viable solution to the problem, and I thank you for that.



I just remembered a note from the not distant past from our MASTER David M. The use of Vaseline on the shaft ends and inside the brass bushing. I guess it's my time in life to start using a legal pad and writing this stuff down, it sure would have saved me a time costly situation here.

Third time has to be the charm!! We move on and never give up in this hobby till we get it and get it right!!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"