Recent uboat pictures

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Paint-chippers, needle-guns, and red-lead! Ah, Deck Department.

[Von Hilde]

Hours of extra duty in the X division paint locker. Took forever to find out why every can of milspec haze grey didnt quite match the stuff that was already on the boat. I think I may have been directly involved in the $10,000 per hammer delima. It seams the Nay Vee got audited and the found they had spent ten grand, one year, for chipping hammers for a certain ship that shall not be named. Come ADMIN time, there was only one in the locker, and that belonged to the BMC with all the fancy ropework on the handle, and the head spray painted gold. It was on a plaque hanging on the bulkhead. Given to the Chief when he was CPO select for outstanding performance. Davey Jones took all the hammers. Only the deck apes and Neptune himself knows what actually happened to the Mk One Mod O, Hammer, comma chipping, comma, one each, went.

[greenman407]

Sounds like years of practical, hands on experience talking there.

[Von Hilde]

Leelan, as you know color perception is "in the eye of the beholder" and "Shades of grey" is a chick book, but also is percieved individually, so it really is the contrast between adjoining colors that is relivant. I too, use mostly rattle can base coats. I have found quite a few different grey primers from different manufacturers that have a wide variation of hues. Textures as well with sandable and non sandable primers. My newest discovery is the matt colors from the autoparts store for bumpers and such and bedliners for the "Albright"anto sonar finish, and Krylon "pottery paint" in various colors with the fine sandy finish. I also dust finish with various colors over base coats, such as a light grey primer base with a light blue matt dust or a black or dark grey base with a Krylon cammoflage dark olive green dust for below the waterline. I always use matt, because the water base Liquitex acrylacs I use for weathering ect by airbrush or dry brush adhear to the base coat. They are easy to wipe off if you make a mistake and when its done , coat it with matt clear.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Mike has indeed flirted with the acid-etching process; he's explored the many variations of the technique. I've done a lot of the process in the good old, Kodak KPR days, http://culttvman.com/main/?p=14677 We talk occasionally about producing a proper PE kit, but there are already some fine ones on the market already.

And I applaud your unwillingness to step on the toes of people who already have a commercial interest in their art-work and product. I wish more customers and users out there were as thoughtful. Much appreciated, sir.

M

[Von Hilde]

Dave, I was wondering why a certain plating company, didnt already jump on the P/E market since basiclly all the MSDS crap and Hazmat permits in place. Not a hard process. I have done some small one off photo etched stuff thru my friends sign shop. He let me use the plotter and vinal cutter to print and cut the friskit for an etching prodject, that I completed at home with a plastic drip pan and some Muratic acid. While I was there he told me his computer was hooked up to the CNC machine as well as a router so If I wanted a duplicate of the 1/72 scale modelbrass deck in 1/32 out of aluminium or mahogoney, I could have one in about an hour. I wouldnt want to infringe on some copyright issuse, but I would draw up some type IX deck arrangements, with the different hatch types and positioning. Just about every type IX had some unique features about the type of hatch covers and storage compartments. Especially along the top of the balast tank on the sides where the original torpedo external storage compartments are located. They were the same dimentions but the type of covers varried from boat to boat by wood slats, steel plates or wire mesh, depending on the application of what was put there besides a torpedo. And later the schnorkle storage with no cover in the starbord bay just forward of amidships.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

If not me, Mammas (and boy, am I late getting a long promised set of SD's off to him! ... I know what I'll be working on this holiday).

M

[greenman407]

I was wondering If anyone would make the Connection, and wouldnt ya know that it would be HWSNBN.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

STAND BY FOR ACTION! New Photos

Back away from that stack of STINGRAY DVD's, and no one will be hurt!.... (insert bongo-drums here)

[greenman407]

[modelnut]

Heres a color Youtube video on it.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZL7-nclmO0&noredirect=1

Here is another clip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yigu5P0HNOQ

It looks like there was a lot of variation in color schemes or maybe that is just an artifact of the lighting or film quality. But I saw quite a few boats in every shade of grey, light, medium and dark in solids and patterns. So I guess what you paint will depend on what boat you are representing.

- Leelan

[modelnut]

Sounds good to me. Try this article. Knowing you Leelan, youve probably already seen it.http://www.artitec.nl/downloads/inst...at_colours.pdf

Yessir. But it never hurts to be reminded. I used one of those charts in that pdf to match a few rattle can primers as being close enough for the base coats on a WWII u-boat, Krylon Grey Primer for below the waterline and either Rustoleum or Plastikote above depending on which shade you like.



- Leelan

[greenman407]

Enhancements later

[greenman407]

[greenman407]

STAND BY FOR ACTION! New Photos