USS Marlin, lost..... then found 231 days later

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by Groot689
    I hate to sound too naive and will be the first to admit that I am a newbie sub commander but isnt there an electronic fail safe device? I was half kidding about the GPS unit but I thought there was a device that would trigger the ballast pump when there is a loss of signal from the transmitter prompting the sub to rise. Am I dreaming this up? Is now a good time to stop inhaling superglue?
    No, you are most correct. There have, over the decades, been many electronic 'fail-safe' devices that will autonomous command a blow of the ballast tank in the event of loss or signal (and in some cases, detection of water in the dry space). These devices are broadly described as, 'missing pulse detectors'.






    Trouble is, if there is a loss of power to the receiver bus, then they won't do their job.

    So, a mechanical recovery system -- divorced from the electrical/control sub-system -- has it's own, very special, merits.

    The best device, by far, is the Battery Link Monitor (BLM) offered by Kevin McLeod. This thing not only commands a blow upon loss-of-signal, it also will command a blow if the battery voltage drops below a critical value. The thing will even report back to you how many times there were loss-of-signal events during the last run! Does everything but cook you dinner.

    David
    Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 04-12-2019, 09:16 AM.

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  • Groot689
    replied
    I hate to sound too naive and will be the first to admit that I am a newbie sub commander but isnt there an electronic fail safe device? I was half kidding about the GPS unit but I thought there was a device that would trigger the ballast pump when there is a loss of signal from the transmitter prompting the sub to rise. Am I dreaming this up? Is now a good time to stop inhaling superglue?

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  • trout
    replied
    There are pingers, floating bobbers, dropping weights, gas, a combination of listed devices, and you name it has been used. In the older SubCommittee Reports are many mechanical means discussed and drawn out.
    In my opinion, the first thing you need is a good running submarine. Meaning if something is not working right, don't run it (speaking from experience). I now make sure I have confidence in my subs working abilities, if something is off, I do not run it. Again, learned that the hard way.
    Ken's sub is/was a wonderful running sub. I think he is pretty smart and will come up with a safety device we all can learn from.
    For my subs, many of them run for 3 - 4 hours so spaghetti or Tums is not a good solution. Signal loss or low battery solution might be better. I look forward to seeing this sub back in the water again!
    Last edited by trout; 04-11-2019, 05:49 PM.

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  • HardRock
    replied
    The WSRR (water soluble retaining rod) strikes again!

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by Bob Gato
    Besides having scale RC boats, I also have a submarine. Being a static diving sub, I am quite afraid of losing it...so I only use it in my pool where I can see it. I've been working on a locator buoy. I've found that a 1000mg tums tablet will dissolve in just about 1hr in ph neutral water at 65 degrees F.-give or take 15 min.
    So I've taken a wine cork and a tablet and 5min epoxied them to a base and wrapped 10FT of cord around them. This should cover the depth of most ponds. It should last for the time of sub usage without releasing. Of course I envision replacing the unit after each run. I could see painting the cork red, possibly some kind of disguise for boats like a lazarette, and coming up with a quick install attachment. On the sub it would probably be a throwaway but on a boat it would last until something "no bueno" happens. Am I reinventing the wheel, is there something out there that does this already?
    I remembering reading Laser110's post in scale boats (Boat down & found) about taking days to find his sunken tug boat..if one of these were hidden on deck he would have had it back in 1 hour...I'm looking for suggestions on the engineering and operation of this buoy. Yes the base shouldn't be plywood (should be aluminum) Remember that the attached picture is only a prototype...thanks.


    I posted this on RGC in 2017-at the time I was thinking of surface craft-where the E.P.I.R.B. would last the season unless something bad happened-but in that case the season was over! It could well be adapted to subs..I envision a hand full of these in your tool pack maybe with a clasp on it to the structure and a magnet to keep everything in place. It could be fashioned with a hatch cover over a chamber that was free flooding. The units would have the hatch cover attached to the float as not to lose it when released. They could be simply cast for your individual boat. At the launch of the boat the time starts ticking...in about an hour it will release or you probably would have pulled your boat out by then- Maybe you do an inspection on the boat or change the battery and want to run some more-just change out the EPIRB for a fresh one and you have another hour.As I am typing I'm thinking-have the cork stand vertical with the hatch glued (hot glue) to the cork end and the magnet glued to the tums and the Tums glued to the cork other end -upon the Tums dissolving and leaving the magnet stuck to the boat and the Buoy with the hatch cover floats to the surface unwinding cord as it goes.


    They cost nothing but the cork, fish line and the Tums.
    Pretty slick. a piece of pasta is also a fine water soluble agent for such use.

    David

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    Besides having scale RC boats, I also have a submarine. Being a static diving sub, I am quite afraid of losing it...so I only use it in my pool where I can see it. I've been working on a locator buoy. I've found that a 1000mg tums tablet will dissolve in just about 1hr in ph neutral water at 65 degrees F.-give or take 15 min.
    So I've taken a wine cork and a tablet and 5min epoxied them to a base and wrapped 10FT of cord around them. This should cover the depth of most ponds. It should last for the time of sub usage without releasing. Of course I envision replacing the unit after each run. I could see painting the cork red, possibly some kind of disguise for boats like a lazarette, and coming up with a quick install attachment. On the sub it would probably be a throwaway but on a boat it would last until something "no bueno" happens. Am I reinventing the wheel, is there something out there that does this already?
    I remembering reading Laser110's post in scale boats (Boat down & found) about taking days to find his sunken tug boat..if one of these were hidden on deck he would have had it back in 1 hour...I'm looking for suggestions on the engineering and operation of this buoy. Yes the base shouldn't be plywood (should be aluminum) Remember that the attached picture is only a prototype...thanks.


    I posted this on RGC in 2017-at the time I was thinking of surface craft-where the E.P.I.R.B. would last the season unless something bad happened-but in that case the season was over! It could well be adapted to subs..I envision a hand full of these in your tool pack maybe with a clasp on it to the structure and a magnet to keep everything in place. It could be fashioned with a hatch cover over a chamber that was free flooding. The units would have the hatch cover attached to the float as not to lose it when released. They could be simply cast for your individual boat. At the launch of the boat the time starts ticking...in about an hour it will release or you probably would have pulled your boat out by then- Maybe you do an inspection on the boat or change the battery and want to run some more-just change out the EPIRB for a fresh one and you have another hour.As I am typing I'm thinking-have the cork stand vertical with the hatch glued (hot glue) to the cork end and the magnet glued to the tums and the Tums glued to the cork other end -upon the Tums dissolving and leaving the magnet stuck to the boat and the Buoy with the hatch cover floats to the surface unwinding cord as it goes.


    They cost nothing but the cork, fish line and the Tums.
    Last edited by Bob Gato; 04-11-2019, 04:37 PM.

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    The servo links as well as most of the guts of the sail were made by a friend of mine.
    Here's a video of the servos operating

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    Here's a video I have on the sail. Some of my video's are on Photobucket and my account is restricted. Will have to get those moved over to YouTube.
    I have the entire sub build on RC Groups... https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...Subtech/page18





























    This one is a running test in the pool
    Last edited by Ken_NJ; 04-11-2019, 09:29 AM.

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    Thanks guys for the awesome support and advice. Going to spend my Saturday attacking the hull and electronics. Its heartbreaking to see the model in this condition. As cool as it might look with the 'weathering' I'd prefer how it looks as built.

    Thanks David!! Can always count on you!!

    Don't think GPS signals will penetrate water. But I have an idea to add to the model to help see where it is underwater as long as the batteries are good. That's a future refurb project.

    The servo connectors were made by a friend of mine. Think I have a video on those. Let me find it.

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    Good thing that the Russians didn't find it first..

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  • Groot689
    replied
    I agree with Trout- What an amazing paint job and the weathering is, so realistic! Seriously, I would start with mild soap and a fairly soft bristle brush. Its algae and should come off but will probably leave stains behind. The interior, is another matter. I am also interested in your mast setup. Installing a GPS in the sub before the next dive perhaps? Congrats on being reunited with your sub.

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  • redboat219
    replied
    Originally posted by Ken_NJ


    How did she end all the way out there?

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  • HardRock
    replied
    I really like your servo set up. Did you make those connectors yourself? (Also like the catfish - but that's another story).

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  • trout
    replied
    Some people never attain that level of weathering!
    Spray a clear coat over it and call it good

    I think I would start conservatively with soap, toothbrush, and water. Then go back to very fine sandpaper and work your way up from there. I wonder if a mild bleach solution would help with some of the internal stains. I can relate to the feeling of losing a sub, but yours is back and that is something to celebrate! Ken, you do good work and will have that back in shape.

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Let me know what you need, Ken. I'll fix you up.

    David

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