Forum rules and expectations

Hello, and welcome to the forums at the Nautilus Drydocks, formerly!

We welcome anyone with a passion for submarines and a desire to learn and share knowledge about this fascinating hobby. Use of these forums indicates your intention to abide by our code of conduct:

1. No spam. All automated messages, advertisements, and links to competitor websites will be deleted immediately.

2. Please post in relevant sub-forums only. Messages posted in the wrong topic area will be removed and placed in the correct sub-forum by moderators.

3. Respect other users. No flaming or abusing fellow forum members. Users who continue to post inflammatory, abusive comments will be deleted from the forum after or without a warning.

4. No threats or harassment of other users will be tolerated. Any instance of threatening or harassing behavior is grounds for deletion from the forums.

5. No profanity or pornography is allowed. Posts containing adult material will be deleted.

6. No re-posting of copyrighted materials or other illegal content is allowed. Any posts containing illegal content or copyrighted materials will be deleted.
See more
See less

USS Marlin, lost..... then found 231 days later

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    Pitted prop- sounds like you need to fit zincs to your sub
    Next time someone points out it takes 42 muscles to frown, point out it will only take 4 muscles to b1tch slap them if they tell you how mnay muscles you need to smile:pop


    • #32
      You don't look like you need any more suggestions, it all looks great! Regarding the coke-possibly wet coke soaked paper towels or coke soaked magic eraser scrub. For the viewers at home...
      Last edited by Bob Gato; 04-14-2019, 09:07 PM.


      • #33
        Just caught up on this thread. I was with the others that it honestly looked superb with that natural “weathering” - but I completely understand when it isn’t what you want your boat to look like. Absolutely superb work getting her cleaned up and ready to ride again. Nice going Ken!

        Dead men tell no tales...


        • #34
          Sorry for the disappearance. Had to get a planned aortic heart valve replacement. Been 2 months on July 10th, doing great with recovery!

          Bob, thought of using Coke, should have tried it.
          Thanks Brady, still up in the air what I'm going to do. Will leave it as is until after Groton in September.

          Using 5000 grit paper gave the paint surface a shine which I'd like to remove. Removing the grime also thinned out the flat clear coat and I damaged some of the decals. I can either leave as is, not sure if sanding with courser paper would remove the shine or spray with Dullcoat.

          The batteries were shot, I used NiMH, already ordered replacements. The drive motor or gears were frozen and after some muscle I got them moving and the motor now runs, but the motor can is rusted and don't know what it looks like in the motor. The LPB is also rusted and the PCB had some pitting. Did not test it out yet. When David reads this I did shoot you and email about the drive motor and LPB.

          The ADF2 and ESC are both fine. There was about 2 tablespoons of water that seeped into the SD that caused the rusting. Not sure how it seeped in after 231 days.


          • #35
            Glad to hear from you and your recovery is going well.


            • #36
              I'd spray with Dullcoat looking at the pics you've provided. Personally I found that the ultra-matte finish left weird water staining on my boat if I didn't completely dry it as soon as I pulled her from the water. I sprayed on a Rustoleum Acrylic Matte, which admittedly is more of a semi-gloss. The result is a boat that's a tiny bit shinier than I'd like, but that behaves well when it gets wet.

              Click image for larger version  Name:	JCdry3.jpg Views:	1 Size:	450.6 KB ID:	130888

              Dead men tell no tales...


              • #37
                My original clear coat was a Rustoleum Flat or Matt clear and it had some whitish spots that appeared after a while. Might try Dullcoat on the lower hull to see what happens. Most likely will wait until the fall before I decide anything.

                In the meantime have new batteries and new electronics tray with a non rusty motor and LPB. Out with the old and in with the new.

                Have lots of small parts to put back together. My goal is to have this ready for July 26th when we will be running models at a local YMCA camp for kids in their 75x75 foot pool.


                • #38
                  For the replacement batteries I removed the positive metal tab, then tinned the negative ends.Glued the batteries together singly with silicone and positioned them in the SD so they keep the curved shape of the tube and align the metal tab with the next positive terminal. Once the silicone dried, I trimmed the negative tab, sanded and fluxed it then soldered the tabs to the respective positive ends. At this point I charged the complete pack. Once charged I soldered the magnetic switch and tested everything. All works like a charm! Didn't see any need to change anything from how I did it before. Each battery is 3800ma. Never had a problem soldering tabbed batteries like this. Now that the batteries are ready, onto the electronics package.