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The Definitive PAINTS Thread

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  • The Definitive PAINTS Thread

    I thought it would be a good idea to concentrate some of the superb information and resources we have here in a more easy-to-find format. This thread will remain sticky at the top of the General Modeling forum, along with others of similarly applicable topics. Each will follow a similar format, where members here who have experience can post up preferred sources for materials, services and vendors.

    Remember, we don't care if you use a product, service or vendor. We want to know WHY you recommend them over others you've tried. What are the differentiators of it versus others in the market? While advice regarding products or vendors to stay away from are welcome, disparaging, inflammatory or derogatory comments will be deleted.

    Now... let's see what the experts recommend for RC Submarine PAINTS:

  • #2
    Got with Bob Martin as to what may have gone wrong with my above posting! He was not sure what happened and suggested I re-submit the photos! So here goes!

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    The reason I submitted this post was to show how with a small building space you could possibly add an airbrush work space (using only a water base type paint) but you can purchase a separate pipe vent system for the paint booth's if you felt like you wanted to go with enamels or lacquers, which I would not suggest using inside the home!

    I am very much new to using an airbrush, but with practice I think it will make a great addition to my final Submarine finishing process (of which I am still learning as well) The thing that pushed me over the edge was the 1:77 scale starter kit of the Disney Nautilus Submarine that I have coming from Nautilus Drydocks (Bob Martin) Again I must praise my wonderful wife and greatest supporter for this kit and the airbrush spraying system!:-))

    Rob

    "Firemen can stand the heat"
    Last edited by rwtdiver; 05-09-2020, 03:34 PM. Reason: adding info.

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    • #3
      I guess I should chime in here. My background is 20 years working for Toyota Design building clay models, concept cars and interiors. I currently run a prototyping lab with everything at my disposal. There are times for quick jobs and high level jobs. Automotive based color with urethane clear is obviously the standard for modern finishes. (New and refinishing) But what do I do for a strong finish and minimal cost? Here is my quick list and PLEASE use the proper safety equipment.....

      Spray gun: Harbor Freight HVLP gun (purple, under $20 us) we use these daily and at that price, it is sometimes cheaper to just chuck the gun when complete. They spray plenty nice for model subs and have seen a beautiful street rod sprayed with one of these.

      SEM Trim black in spray or quart: we have used this for years as a fast drying rattle can with excellent strength. I was told that it is the strongest non catalyzed paint in a can. Great for the black hulls if you are not ready for a spray gun. Quart version goes on great too.

      SEM flexible surface primer in quart or spray. I love this formula because the smell is less than lacquer and it builds really well out of a gun. I can bury the part in paint and it hardens quite quick for a pour and spray formula. Spray can version goes on smooth but not a high build formula.

      UPOL matte black is another high pigment black that lays on really nice.

      FYI, None of these options are found in a Home Depot or auto parts store. Get it on Amazon or an automotive paint supply house.

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      • #4
        Automotive refinishing products are the way to go. Some pictured are no longer available as stupid, tree-hugging California calls the shots on what chemistry will be in vogue at the moment.


































































































































































        "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

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