The Definitive ADHESIVES Thread

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  • RCSubGuy
    Welcome to my underwater realm!
    • Aug 2009
    • 1767

    The Definitive ADHESIVES Thread

    I thought it would be a good idea to concentrate some of the superb information and resources we have here in a more easy-to-find format. This thread will remain sticky at the top of the General Modeling forum, along with others of similarly applicable topics. Each will follow a similar format, where members here who have experience can post up preferred sources for materials, services and vendors.

    Remember, we don't care if you use a product, service or vendor. We want to know WHY you recommend them over others you've tried. What are the differentiators of it versus others in the market? While advice regarding products or vendors to stay away from are welcome, disparaging, inflammatory or derogatory comments will be deleted.

    Now... let's see what the experts recommend for RC Submarine ADHESIVES:
  • trout
    Admiral
    • Jul 2011
    • 3542

    #2
    Bob,
    for plastic kits (styrene), I like the Plastruct Bondene or the plastic weld for a cohesive bond between two styrene pieces.
    If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

    Comment

    • Subculture
      Admiral
      • Feb 2009
      • 2114

      #3
      For hard plastics to plastic I use a solvent based glue like Tom. You can buy it under brand names, or you can buy it cheap by the litre on ebay, search for:- Methyl Ethyl Ketone Solvent

      For bonding metal if solder is out of the question, I will use either a slow set epoxy or a good modified acrylic adhesive. For epoxy I like JB weld marine, as it set's strong, is waterproof and works nicely with tools. Modified acrylic I use whatever I can find available, there are many brands and different types e.g. Stabilit Express, Uhu Acrylit, Devcon Plasticwelder. The modified acrylics set incredibly strong, but they don't half pong, and they can craze some plastics like polycarbonate, so be careful. I use the same adhesives for bonding composites like glass fibre, or bonding mixed substrates. Sometimes I will mix in a filler like chopped glass or cellulose fibres to give additional strength, but it's rarely required.

      For wood to wood bonding (probably not much use for submariners) I use either PVA or cyano or epoxy resin mixed with cellulose or glass fibres. Sometimes I'll use a combination e.g. tack together with cyano then follow up with epoxy.

      Comment

      • RCSubGuy
        Welcome to my underwater realm!
        • Aug 2009
        • 1767

        #4
        Culled out from other threads, originally posted by His Majesty:

        ADHESIVES A broad category of binding agents that hold parts together either through the introduction of a third-party binder or by fusing the materials of the parts to be joined together. Adhesives work through atomic attraction of the different molecules (the parts and the binding agent) -- it's the close proximity to the surface of the parts that holds them together. Adhesion is not fusion or welding -- there is no cross linking between the parts being joined. Adhesives are the goo that holds other items together. The weld, or fusion bond is achieved through the application of heat or chemicals to break down the solid state at the union between the items being joined, permitting cross-linking of the substrates molecules -- once the items resume room temperature or the dissolving solvent has evaporated the bond is completed. Typically cohesives work slower than adhesives.

        'Tube cement' is a cohesive, the very active hydrocarbon solvents in this paste melts and effects a fusion (weld) bond between the polystyrene model parts being joined. The familiar cyanoacrylate (CA) is a adhesive and finds application also as a filler in some situations. CA's easily break when subjected to shock shear loads (drop a CA'ed together model on the floor and watch the pieces fly!). The cement and brush applied liquid are solvent cements: cohesives.


        Just some of the commercially available adhesives and cohesive I've collected over the years. But, it's just the tube and brush on cohesives and CA adhesives you'll need for those plastic models, Ed. Why is solder pictured above? Because solder is a adhesive, that's why! Think hot-glue gun for metal work. Solder (and most brazing) joining IS NOT WELDING!

        Comment

        • Bob Gato
          Captain
          • Feb 2019
          • 826

          #5
          I would like to add one to the group and revive an old thread-This stuff is absolutely amazing if used for its intended design. I did some reviewing and experimenting on another forum and I think it is worth viewing. I see a lot of application in the submarine world...maybe not for structure(possibly) but certainly for cosmetics. Its resin wont melt any paint or plastic-It wipes off easily-can be repositioned as many times as you like if you change your mind-wont harden -ever! but becomes a waterproof solid plastic with less then 3 seconds of the supplied UV light...I strongly suggest a quick read at the link-

          Comment

          • type7
            Lieutenant Commander
            • Apr 2009
            • 152

            #6
            I have been using PL type construction adhesive for attaching balancing foam, wtc mounts and phenolic sheets to fiberglass hulls.
            Use Goop for attaching servos, receivers, level keepers, etc. Goop is good for the flexible foam sheets and other waterproof joints as well.
            Use RTV silicon for general waterproofing and building up under, or tightening, o-rings.
            Use black RTV for attaching photo etch decks because it adheres well and the deck can be removed without damage.

            Comment

            • Bob Gato
              Captain
              • Feb 2019
              • 826

              #7
              If you had to make these 1/8" welded aluminum letters what would you use?

              Comment

              • Bob Gato
                Captain
                • Feb 2019
                • 826

                #8
                Or the casting on a 1/24 outboard motor?-this stuff works for me! It fills a niche void in the adhesive list
                Last edited by Bob Gato; 03-15-2019, 04:04 PM.

                Comment

                • QuarterMaster
                  Rear Admiral
                  • Sep 2015
                  • 1210

                  #9
                  Originally posted by SubHuman
                  I thought it would be a good idea to concentrate some of the superb information and resources we have here in a more easy-to-find format. This thread will remain sticky at the top of the General Modeling forum, along with others of similarly applicable topics. Each will follow a similar format, where members here who have experience can post up preferred sources for materials, services and vendors.
                  Like the recommended Paints and Paint Schedule!
                  v/r "Sub" Ed

                  Silent Service "Cold War" Veteran (The good years!)
                  NEVER underestimate the power of a Sailor who served aboard a submarine.
                  USS ULYSSES S GRANT-USS SHARK-USS NAUTILUS-USS KEY WEST-USS BLUEBACK-USS PATRICK HENRY-K432-U25-SSRN SEAVIEW-PROTEUS-NAUTILUS

                  Comment

                  • Kazzer
                    *********
                    • Aug 2008
                    • 2846

                    #10
                    Here's a selection of products you might find useful



                    This is a phenol novolac epoxy, slow cure, long working time. 2:1 mix ratio, and can be filled with almost any inert filler, like glass beads, fine sand, etc.



                    Some pot metal repair solutions here.





                    Great for molds


                    Epoxy sticks, some cure underwater, 5 minute working life etc



                    I think HWSNBN uses this stuff for detail work.



                    I hope that helps!

                    Stop messing about - just get a Sub-driver!

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