Mounting TV camera in Sub ?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The camera, with 9.6 volt battery pack for power.
It was still transmitting when E-switch blew.
Maybe the ES-1 just can't handle 9 or 10.volts, for long ?
See camera Pic:

The ES1 is good to pass at least 12-volts.

I recommend you isolate the red wire from the ES1 unit (one of the three wires that makes up to the receiver port). The ES1 has a BEC of its own and that should be isolated (disconnecting the red wire) if you're using an ESC with its own BEC, or you're using a dedicated BEC.

David,

[toppack]

Yes, I had done that. It would not work properly until I did. (Adding voltages)
The thing is, it worked properly for about 20. minutes before it failed, so it must have been wired correctly.
Is there a schematic of the ES-1 available somewhere?
I'm still confused as what the circuit is inside them. :confused:
If not, I think I'll just replace the cooked one with a Hansen High-power E-switch, which has all that Info with it. Altho thicker than the ES-1, I think it will fit in the SDs available space.
(The one I've used before does require assembly tho)

http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/rcelkits/erskit/

He also has another assembled version, but I've not tried it.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Yes, I had done that. It would not work properly until I did. (Adding voltages)
The thing is, it worked properly for about 20. minutes before it failed, so it must have been wired correctly.
Is there a schematic of the ES-1 available somewhere?
I'm still confused as what the circuit is inside them. :confused:
If not, I think I'll just replace the cooked one with a Hansen High-power E-switch, which has all that Info with it. Altho thicker than the ES-1, I think it will fit in the SDs available space.
(The one I've used before does require assembly tho)

http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/rcelkits/erskit/

He also has another assembled version, but I've not tried it.

What the ES1 manufacturer has done is make it a micro-controller programmed, one-device-does-many-things gadget. That same board, as is, when the micro-controller is so coded, will perform the job as an ESC, electronic switch, radio alarm clock, coffee maker, etc. All programmed at the factory for the function the circuit is sold for.

I can hear you screaming from here: "all I want is for the thing to do one thing right!".

I'm with you there. We're working with our Chinese guy now on the problem.

David,

[toppack]

:D LOL :D
Yep, I don't need a 'radio alarm clock or coffee maker' right Now! :D LOL :D

David and Mike,
You may want to check out Chris Hansen's products, for resale.
He seems to have quality items. He's in Illinois.

http://www.hansenhobbies.com/

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

:D LOL :D
Yep, I don't need a 'radio alarm clock or coffee maker' right Now! :D LOL :D

David and Mike,
You may want to check out Chris Hansen's products, for resale.
He seems to have quality items. He's in Illinois.
http://www.hansenhobbies.com/

Thanks for the tip.

Hey, Mike: I went to the Hansen site and looked at the bigger (which is very small) of the two electronic switches, http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/onboardacc/mers/ and it looks just like what we need to put in the Caswell catalog.

We're not interested in the smaller ES, Mike, as that only feeds off the receiver bus.

Good work, Toppack.

David,

[toppack]

I did another 'camera-submerged-in-water' test, but this time I used a current-regulated power-supply for power.
Left it under water another 15. min, with no problems.
I still don't know what caused the ES-1 to blow but I have determined that the camera and it's connector are water-tight. At least in 2" of water it is.
Has not been tested below 500. feet yet. :D

Which reminds me, How many 'Hundreds of Feet' has the Sub-Driver been tested to ??? :D

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I did another 'camera-submerged-in-water' test, but this time I used a current-regulated power-supply for power.
Left it under water another 15. min, with no problems.
I still don't know what caused the ES-1 to blow but I have determined that the camera and it's connector are water-tight. At least in 2" of water it is.
Has not been tested below 500. feet yet. :D

Which reminds me, How many 'Hundreds of Feet' has the Sub-Driver been tested to ??? :D

Fire up that camera-transmitter 30 days from now and tell me how it works then.

I've pulled a hard vacuum in these units -- that's a differential pressure pretty much equivalent to 30 feet of water. Without failure.

David,

[toppack]

Fire up that camera-transmitter 30 days from now and tell me how it works then.

Will Do.

I was just joking about the test, but that is interesting.
I assume that was Internal Vacuum, on SD, to simulate external water pressure, correct?
Doesn't air leak easier than water. If so, the vacuum test would equal something Greater than 30 feet in water wouldn't it? Or does the 30 ft correct for that aleady?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Will Do.

I was just joking about the test, but that is interesting.
I assume that was Internal Vacuum, on SD, to simulate external water pressure, correct?
Doesn't air leak easier than water. If so, the vacuum test would equal something Greater than 30 feet in water wouldn't it? Or does the 30 ft correct for that aleady?

.445 PSI per foot of water. A hard vacuum at the surface represents a 15 PSI differential. To create that same differential on the SubDriver with one-atmosphere of pressure within it would require a submergence to about 30 foot.

[toppack]

.445 PSI per foot of water. A hard vacuum at the surface represents a 15 PSI differential. To create that same differential on the SubDriver with one-atmosphere of pressure within it would require a submergence to about 30 foot.

Okay, I think I understand.
Thanks for the Info.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Okay, I think I understand.
Thanks for the Info.

Basic stuff. You'll find it in the index of most first-year Physics text books. Don't have one? Go to a book remainder store and get one (you'll find them near any college or university campus)! Questions here should not be so basic. Study -- come to class prepared!

Reminder: I'm not here to be nice or kiss the customer's ass, or to make small-talk to lonely men. I'm here to help you with product selection, set-up, alteration, and repair.

I don't have time for the basic stuff you should already have in your noggin, the stuff you need to know to support this choice you made -- to assemble and operate r/c submarines.

R/C submarines are not an entry-level aspect of the radio controlled vehicle hobby. You had better get into this with basic science understood, practical hands-on experience with r/c vehicles, and a wad of cash! If you don't, you're doomed to miserable failure.

David,

[toppack]

Okay, No more complicated Questions for David, I understand!
David,
If I post other questions that you consider silly or don't have time to answer, just Ignor them. Maybe some other 'Lonely person' will want to respond. :D
Oh, I forgot, there's not too many people on this Forum? :confused:

[toppack]

Maybe you should Post a Sign in Forum-Header stating,
'No Newbie Questions Allowed'.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Maybe you should Post a sign in Forum header stating,
'No Newbie Questions Allowed'. :D

I'll take that (twice) under advisement, Mr. Ambassador.

David,

[Kazzer]

Maybe you should Post a Sign in Forum-Header stating,
'No Newbie Questions Allowed'.

Rick

Just ignore his Grumpieness! He's not happy until he's giving some one some grief! I guess you are it:)