Mounting TV camera in Sub ?

[toppack]

I plan to mount a mini color TV camera (with sound) in conning-tower in one, maybe both, of the subs I'm building. I've used these cameras in 2 surface RC ships already and they work great. I mount the remote TV receiver on a TV, with power from a car battery, sitting on the shore.
I figured out a way to encapsulate the camera but have not found a way to seal the connector between battery in hull and camera in sail, and still have it disconnectable and removable? I really don't want to put in another battery sealed in the sail.
Any suggestions and help would be appreciated?

[toppack]

I've desided to try to encapsulate a camera power connector by using Deans type connectors, sealing both male and female connectors in a single ball of RTV, then cut them apart so there will be a tight fit of RTV and then use silicone-grease to seal the gap.
What do Ya think?
Man, surface RC ships are so much easier, but like I said 'I like a Challenge'. :D

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I plan to mount a mini color TV camera (with sound) in conning-tower in one, maybe both, of the subs I'm building. I've used these cameras in 2 surface RC ships already and they work great. I mount the remote TV receiver on a TV, with power from a car battery, sitting on the shore.
I figured out a way to encapsulate the camera but have not found a way to seal the connector between battery in hull and camera in sail, and still have it disconnectable and removable? I really don't want to put in another battery sealed in the sail.
Any suggestions and help would be appreciated?

Simply slather Permatex RTV gasket-making goo over the connectors and let it dry. It's easy to break when you have to disconnect things.

Consider installing a voltage regulator between the primary battery and the camera system, use one that outputs 5-volts and you're good to go.

Sounds like your shore-side end of the system is like mine, though I output the receiver into a DVD recording machine, and bounce that signal into a monitor/set of virtual goggles so I can watch and record the action at the same time.

Spring for the video camera-transmitter WTC -- it's in the Caswell Inc. catalog, along with the Permatex RTV.

(I'm such a Whore!).

David,

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I've desided to try to encapsulate a camera power connector by using Deans type connectors, sealing both male and female connectors in a single ball of RTV, then cut them apart so there will be a tight fit of RTV and then use silicone-grease to seal the gap.
What do Ya think?
Man, surface RC ships are so much easier, but like I said 'I like a Challenge'. :D

Yup!

David,

[toppack]

Consider installing a voltage regulator between the primary battery and the camera system, use one that outputs 5-volts and you're good to go.

Sounds like your shore-side end of the system is like mine, though I output the receiver into a DVD recording machine, and bounce that signal into a monitor/set of virtual goggles so I can watch and record the action at the same time.

Spring for the video camera-transmitter WTC -- it's in the Caswell Inc. catalog, along with the Permatex RTV.

(I'm such a Whore!).

David,

I've found that the cameras I've been using operate best at around 9.V. I use LM-317 V-reg. ICs. which are resistor adjustable for voltage level needed. But I may just use a 8.4 volt battery pack (7 cells), if the motor and speed-control like that voltage level?.

I'll have to try the Vertual-goggles. That sounds like fun. :D

Sorry, I already have 2 more color cameras (with sound) that I got off eBay. One is a new version with brighter contrast and higher resolution, big improvement over the older version, same price and about the same size. I'm hopeing it will work well when running at periscope depth.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I've found that the cameras I've been using operate best at around 9.V. I use LM-317 V-reg. ICs. which are resistor adjustable for voltage level needed. But I may just use a 8.4 volt battery pack (7 cells), if the motor and speed-control like that voltage level?.

I'll have to try the Vertual-goggles. That sounds like fun. :D

Sorry, I already have 2 more color cameras (with sound) that I got off eBay. One is a new version with brighter contrast and higher resolution, big improvement over the older version, same price and about the same size. I'm hopeing it will work well when running at periscope depth.

1 lousy Volt don't matter. Give me a source on that variable VR, sounds neat!

Don't be too sure about that camera-transmitter using 9 Volts: within the plug connector is likely encapsulated a tiny VR that outputs 5 volts. Not knowing the system you're using I can't be sure, but most of these little camera-transmitter systems use pretty much the same circuitry, regardless of packaging (Swann and such).

If you take out the factory plug from between the 9 Volt battery and camera-transmitter, and hard-wire the battery to the camera-transmitter then it's an issue. What I'm saying is: if you're going with the original connector, then you're good to go, if you take it out of the picture, you may have to wire a 5 Volt VR between the two items.

Give me a source for the 'improved' camera. If it works out I'll run it by Mr. Caswell.

David,

[toppack]

I ordered the LM-317s from Newark Electronics:

http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=500003+1001976&Ntk=gensearch_001&Ntt=lm317&Ntx=

Instructions with these cameras calls for 9.volts I think.
Yes, I found out the hard way that the power connector on the cameras have circuitry in them. I did manage to modify one to a Deans type connector tho.

I got my cameras from eBay. I'll try to find a source. They probably all come from HongKong.

[toppack]

Well, new camera came directly from HongKong, but there's free shipping. :D
The new version is same width and height but about 1/4" longer from lense to back.
(The included camera holder or stand is removable.)
Here's a link to them on eBay website:

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-CCTV-Security-Wireless-Mini-Hidden-Color-Spy-Camera_W0QQitemZ160290859192QQihZ006QQcategoryZ48632QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thanks. I'll tell Mr. Caswell about this.

Do you know how many lines of resolution this camera has? The old ones are 380 some lines; not bad, not terribly good, but adequate.

Yeah, if you dig into the rubber potting at the camera-transmitter end of the plug you'll find encapsulated a little 9-5 Volt regulator.

David,

[toppack]

Do you know how many lines of resolution this camera has? The old ones are 380 some lines; not bad, not terribly good, but adequate.

Yeah, if you dig into the rubber potting at the camera-transmitter end of the plug you'll find encapsulated a little 9-5 Volt regulator.
David,

I checked the box the camera came in and the instruction sheet but No resolution given. Even tho it was in a very nice box it didn't even have the manufactures name on it. It could be still at 380, but since it looks so much better I just assumed it is higher resolution. It may just be the brightness and contrast that are better. Strange they didn't give the resolution data tho, they did with all the older ones. (not on eBay page either)
The receiver looks identical except power-jack is now labeled 12.V. The older ones were labeled either 9.V or 9.-12.V. The receiver has not changed internally tho. I also tested the new camera on an old receiver and it looked the same. I've found that they all work well at 12.volts, tho.

Thanks, I was not sure what the circuit in connector did. That's good to know. I do know there were only 2 wires going into connector but 3 wires from connector to camera, so I was wondering if it may be an amplifer for video-transmitter or something.

[toppack]

I've been trying to figure out where I'm going to mount the video camera in the Gato model. I want it pointing forward and there's not much space inside the upper part of sail and view would be blocked by forward-gun and railing, so I think the best place is under the forward-gun-deck (cigarette deck). It's very low and close to deck there but I can point the camera up some for better view. The hole will slightly be hidden by deck extension and it will be easier to seal camera in and out there also. I just hope the camera antenna will be high enough there.
I probably won't be able to mount the fog-horn, tho. :D

[toppack]

I'm thinking about running the video camera's antenna up thru the sail and periscope to make it work better when running partially submurged, but it will need to be lengthened. So doubleing the length would probably be best?
Has anyone ever experimented with doubleing the antenna length of a 1. or 2. gHs transmitter's antenna? (I'm guessing the antennas, that come with them, are full-wavelength, but may be half-wavelength, which would be great)

[toppack]

I doubled the length of a camera/transmitter's Antenna to test it. Worked great up close, so I did a simulated Range-test by completely removing the antenna from receiver box and moved it about 30.ft away (length of workshop) and found that it still looked good. :D (that's with 9.V battery for camera power)
So I think it's 'Good to Go' in the Sub that way :D and get the antenna further out of the water.

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I found some very small wire (wire-wrap type) that will go up thru holes drilled in tower, then inside the tubing supplied in kit for periscope, to lengthen antenna. It's not invisible, at tower support frame, but it looks like it should be there, so it looks fine. :)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I found some very small wire (wire-wrap type) that will go up thru holes drilled in tower, then inside the tubing supplied in kit for periscope, to lengthen antenna. It's not invisible, at tower support frame, but it looks like it should be there, so it looks fine. :)

Range check that thing to 300-feet. That will tell the tale.

David,