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The camera, with 9.6 volt battery pack for power.
It was still transmitting when E-switch blew.
Maybe the ES-1 just can't handle 9 or 10.volts, for long ?
See camera Pic:
please draw a circuit like your camera with the ES1. let me take a test and search the cause
I'm starting to think something accidentally shorted, causing the failures, since the ESC failed at the same time, and the ESC and ES-1 Power wires were not supposed to be connected to each other (separate power-supplies). So if they were not connected, how can one of them failing take out the other also! :confused: Very Strange!
It was only the ES-1 that visually burned, tho.
I could not find any visually damaged components in the speed-control.
I would post a schematic but my wife told me last week that our scanner is not working. :( I'll check it and see, may have been operator-error. :D LOL :D
Rick L.
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* Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *
I did another Test of the WT seal of the camera.
This time I got it working at water surface of hot-tub, then disconnecting power I lowered it to bottom (about 2.5 feet deep). Left it under about 5. minutes. When I brought it back up and reconnected power it worked but left half of displayed image was cloudy (whiteish with little color). I left it powered up and after about 10. minutes it went back to normal. That must be telling me that it got water behind lense, which needs to be sealed better ? :confused:
Rick L.
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* Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *
I found that the lense housing is threaded into camera housing and lense can be rotated in and out, with those theads, to adjust Focus of camera.
Well, Not any More, I RTVed the theads, since that must be where the water got in.
I'll test it again tomorrow, I want to let it dry out completely.
I've discovered another Good use for the onboard Camera. :)
When the battery starts depleating the color of the diplayed video Changes. At about 6.volts it looses some of the colors and goes Red.
So the camera will be a good indicator of when battery is getting low and model needs to be brought in for battery change or charge.
My surface ships, with cameras, have such large batteries, that last longer than I do, I never saw this, but Subs with their small batteries, are a different story.
The new E-switch for Camera is still working, I guess it's time to do some more Underwater testing of the camera, to see if I've fixed the leaking lense problem. ;)
Rick L.
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* Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *
I did another camera leak test at 2.5 feet, with no problems, so I mounted it in base of sail with RTV, and ran the extended antenna up thru tower and periscope.
So, we can say it's semi-permanently mounted now.
The next test will be at the lake. :)
Rick L.
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* Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *
I started having another leak problem at the camera power cable connector, after about a dozen disconnects and reconnects. :( Sure runs the battery down Fast, but it did not damage the E-switch.
So I put a small dab of silicone-grease at the mating surface of the RTV seal, and that fixed it. At least for now. :)
Rick L.
--------------------------------------------
* Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *
You are doing some really neat stuff here. Is there any way you can post some pictures? It would really help understanding what you are trying to achieve.
I'll try to do that some. I keep forgeting to take pics and also my new digital camera got stuck in some strange mode when my wife was using it, but I think I've got that fixed now.
Rick L.
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* Asking Questions is a 'Good Thing',
Since Learning is Always a 'Good Thing' *
Here's pic showing the underside of Gato Tower, with camera mounted in front, with small hole for lense.
You can also see the RTV-sealed power-connector and the camera-transmitter antenna wire which goes up into periscope. The screw hanging down holds the tower onto deck, the head of which is hidden inside tower. Only needed the one 4-40 screw to hold it on tightly.
The number is hand painted on, since the kit did not have enough decals for both sides.
Click Pic:
What ???
There's No way to hide a WTC inside that small tower and the problem area is the cable connection, which can't be inside a WTC, to allow removal of deck assembly.
I think of it as a Challenge, Not a Real problem. :)
I build Scale models, Not models with large camera-pods sitting on top of them. :D LOL :D
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